We did it, after 8 days walking across Galicia we have a arrived at the provincial capital, Santiago de Compostela.
It was another predawn start, aiming to avoid crowds coming out of O Pedrouzo. The plan worked, we pretty much had the Camino to ourselves. The first 3km was mostly up hill that levels off until Monte do Gozo, when the route starts the descent into Santiago.
The obligatory picture of the 10km way marker was taken although it was a bit difficult getting a good one in the dark!
Around the 4km point we stopped for breakfast, the last one on ‘The Way’. From here it was a short kilometre to Monte do Gozo where we got our first look of the cathedral in the distance.
The descent to our destination began. The peaceful countryside gave way to the bustling streets of the city. The footpaths became evermore crowded as the tide of pilgrims flowed into Santiago.
The kilometres slipped by until the familiar sound of bagpipes heralding the cathedral square, was just around the corner.
We passed under the archway in to square, emotions flowing that our journey had come to its end. We hugged and congratulated each other. Pictures and messages sent to our friends and family to say we arrived.
Once we obtained our compostelas we headed to a little back street restaurant for some well deserved tortilla y potata and a beer; and of course, some Torta de Santiago!
Once booked into the Pension, first order of business was finding a laundromat. Then it was time to celebrate. We had a look around the cathedral and attended the pilgrims mass. However the Camino hadn’t finished with us, we got to see the botafumeiro swing!
It’s been another great experience on the Camino, and I managed to get everyone over the finishing line, just hope they will give me a 5 star rating on trip advisor!
It was a very short walk today in comparison to our previous days, in fact we spent more time in a bar than walking!
We were almost the last peregrinos to leave the albergue with most out the doors at 0630h. O Pedrouzo is typically the start point for the final day into Santiago. However we are stopping half way at Lavacolla.
We had breakfast at the same cafe the morning after we landed in Spain. At the time I said we would be walking past here in a weeks time, and my prophecy was fulfilled!
Once our plates were emptied we began our penultimate day, walking through the misty woodlands that sit between O Pedrouzo and the airport.
We made amazing time, 7 days of walking has clearly increased everyone’s fitness. Just before the halfway point for the day, Chris went to stroke a cat on the side of the road, that decided to make a home on his backpack; it was reluctant to leave, leaving Chris to come to terms that he had just adopted a cat!
A little bit further on we arrived at cafe 15km, the spot marking the ascent up to the airport. It was barely 1000h, so we stopped for a drink and some cake.
The steep climb to the airport ensued. We took our time and steadily we reached the summit. There was a souvenir store that had wax stamps! The Camino provides again! After I thought we wouldn’t get any, the Camino provided us with two.
As we followed the route around the runway, as we reached the end of the tarmac, an aeroplane came into land just as we were underneath it; I had to quickly grab my hat before it blew off!
It was an easy stroll into San Paio arriving at 1230h; Lavacolla is just 2km on and check-in was at 1500h. We stopped at the bar until about 1430h, relaxing, watching the world go by and chatting with fellow pilgrims.
As we left, two peregrinos from Wolverhampton joined us into Lavacolla, where they had booked into accommodation opposite us. Their journey started in Logrono, and their day beginning just before Arzua.
Tomorrow will be 10km ending at Santiago. A good week on the Camino coming to an end. There is a buzz in the air!
Despite it being almost 20km today we made good time and arrived in O Pedrouzo mid afternoon on another hot day.
As it would be a longer day, we were out of the doors before 0700h, walking in the dark with head torches on. It was a small descent out of Arzua through woodland before the first hill to Pregontono. There were samplings on the way that reflected the torch, giving a eerie view.
We stopped in Pregontono for breakfast as dawn broke. Fuelled up, we continued up the last of the fairly steep hills of today’s journey.
The kilometres flew by and it wasn’t long before we reached the bottle bar ‘Tia Dolores’. But to our disappointment, it is closed, all the bottle sculptures gone, all that remains is an empty yard. Twice now we have been scuppered, no wax stamp and now no bottle bar.
We passed a wall that had philosophical questions and quotes on posters, one of which resonated with me and pretty much sums the Camino up.
We continued on over the next 3k stopping for a drink at Boavista. Then on to A Brea for lunch. From there it was 5km into O Pedrouzo, to the albergue next door to the Pensión we stayed at 1 week ago.
For dinner we headed to a Mexican restaurant that had wax stamps! The Camino provides! A little gem of a place with really tasty food.
Although it’s only 20k to Santiago we are going to split it into two days, hopefully our journey into the Galician capital will be less crowded this way. Lavacolla tomorrow.
It was cold again leaving the albergue but as soon as we were in the Sun, it certainly warmed up. Turned out to be the hottest day so far.
After breakfast we hit the Camino that for the for 3 km was under shade keeping it quite chilly. Just before Boente the Sun was out and finally I could take off my jacket.
We stopped at a fruit stall on the side of the path, and shared a portion of raspberries; I also got a small bottle of raspberry liquor!
After the short break we continued on. The path undulated until just before ‘Fraga Alta’. Again Robins were following us and wishing us buen camino. Coming into Fraga, there is a steep bit, but there is a bar at the top for a reward.
After the quick rest we continued on up and over a ridge into Ribadiso where we planned to stop for lunch. On our way down a large procession of pilgrims on horseback passed us.
With full stomachs we tackled the last hill into Arzua, arriving into the albergue Cruce de Caminos. It is a lovely albergue that has towels!
I was speaking with the owner Sara, who is very friendly and a great host. She is part of a Camino group that shares stories from the journey and she was interested in my travels; I gave her the address to my blog. I recommend stopping here.
Tomorrow is going to be a longer day due to little availability. We have an albergue booked in O Pedrouzo, the village we stopped in when we landed. It will be one week ago since we stayed there!
The rain had finally abated and the skies were clear for the first time on our walk, however it was 8 Celsius, in other words, cold.
We stopped for breakfast at a cafe just up the road from the albergue before we began our fourth day on the Camino.
Palas de Rei being a stage end the route was busy until just past San Xulian do Camino. We stopped for a drink and a stamp from the little chapel. By now it started to warm up, allowing me to take off my coat.
The route undulated through tranquil countryside. Past grazing cattle, shady forest paths all to the sound of songbirds. We have noticed that Robins have been watching us and tweeting at us since starting our Camino. They are becoming a welcoming sight and we’re taking them as a good omen.
For lunch we stopped at O Coto, filling our stomachs with ‘Tortilla y Potata’. From here it was a fairly easy stroll into Melide. Unfortunately the little shop where I got my wax stamp two years go, had run out is wax.
We also crossed the halfway point of our Camino!
There was a market in the streets of ‘Furelos’ (a little hamlet just outside of Melide) but it was in the style of 1900. The stall keepers were dressed in traditional clothing.
After checking into the albergue we headed to the church to get the stamp I missed in 2021, before going for tapas in a pulperia. My mum had been dreading trying it, but after taking the smallest bit of pulpo, she was finishing off the plate!
It should be another short day as we are aiming for Arzua tomorrow.
A lot shorter day however there was more rain. It had poured throughout the night but by breakfast there was a temporary reprieve.
We decided to eat breakfast at the albergue before beginning the walking. The clouds still loomed overhead as we made our way into Ligonde where we called into a donativo.
It is run by volunteers from churches all over the world for a week at a time. There was an Egyptian, two Hawaiians and four Spanish hospitalarios. There all had buckets of energy welcoming the pilgrims for hot drinks.
Donativos don’t charge but accept donations. There is a water fountain outside that draws the water from an underground well; I filled my bottle!
We continued on just as the rain settled in. Poncho time! We quickly donned our brightly coloured wet weather gear. The rain was on and off until Lestedo, where we stopped for a drink.
While here we met up with our Taiwanese friend from Casa Banderas, Janet. She joined us for a drink. The sun finally made an appearance, thus we packed our ponchos away.
We called into the village’s little chapel for a stamp before continuing on. On our approach into Palas de Rei the rain returned and back on with the Ponchos.
Once booked into the albergue we made full use of the washing machine and dryer before heading into to town. When I passed through here on my Camino, it was early morning and most places were closed, including the church, San Tirso.
However this time it is open, enabling me to get the stamp!
After a little look around the town we called into a bar for a couple of drinks before returning to the albergue. Tomorrow is Melide, the town famous for Pulpo (octopus). I’m looking forward to it, but I don’t think my mum would say the same!
A shorter day was on the cards so we had a lie in, leaving the albergue at 0800h. It had rained heavily with strong gusts of winds throughout the night, luckily it had cleared mostly by dawn.
We made our way into Portomarin crossing over the river Mino where the foundations of a Roman bridge can be seen in the water below.
After climbing the steps from the centre of a roundabout up into the town, we stopped for breakfast.
Fuelled up we continued on down the hill to the river. The path follows the bank before cutting inland and upwards. Three pilgrims missed the turning, and after some shouts of “Peregrinos!”, I was able to point them in the right direction.
The climb was quite drawn out, but the path went through a woodland; no sound but for the wind and birds singing. The tranquility took our minds off the ascent.
Unfortunately the path met the main road, which ‘The Way’ follows mostly for the remainder of the day.
At midday we stopped in Gonzar for lunch of eggs and chips. Carbs and protein, a typical dish on the Camino. Here we met our Taiwanese friend from the previous night, however she is staying at the albergue here.
From Gonzar another hill had to be tackled, this one I remembered from the last time. However I missed the earthworks to an Iron Age fort that eventually the Romans took over; I walked right past it in 2021.
That was the last of the hills today and a gentle stroll into Ventas de Naron. It was 17.6km today, bit further than anticipated, and we managed to avoid the rain showers (mostly).
We had the pilgrims menu and a few beers to ease our aching muscles. It’s our first night in a true albergue, so will be a new experience for my group.
After two days of travelling and relying on public transport, planes and Spanish pizzerias. We arrived in Sarria late afternoon.
The only flight from Gatwick landed in Santiago at 2255h. The albergue I booked for that night shuts their doors at 2200h, however the hospitalario said she would leave the key at a pizzeria next door; I gave an ETA of midnight.
Everything was going to plan until we were on the runway, waiting for 30mins. But the Camino intervened with a tail wind, and we landed 10mins late; plenty of time to get to our beds.
After breakfast we got a taxi back to the airport to catch the coach to Sarria, just missing the morning departure by seconds. Once onboard the afternoon coach, it’s first stop was outside our albergue we had just left!
The journey pretty much followed the Camino, passing places I had stopped at two years ago; it was a nostalgia overload. So many happy memories.
Once we got into Sarria and settled into the albergue, we went for some drinks and food. We met a solo pilgrim from Massachusetts who had started in Astorga. We invited her to join us for the meal.
A first taste of the Camino for my traveling companions. By 2200h we were back at the albergue for the night.
By 0700h we were out the doors on the Camino, head torches on, walking in the pre-dawn dark. That hill out of Sarria was still there! Just after dawn we stopped for breakfast before moving on.
The clouds came in and over the hills in the distance, rain was in the air, but despite the threatening weather it held off.
I managed to get a picture at the 100km way marker. Due to roadworks on this particular stretch of the route; I was I unable to get it in 2021.
From there the kilometres passed by into Vilacha, where I had booked us into Casa Banderas. Although the owners Dominique and Ray are in the states, their daughter Gabrielle is looking after the place.
We had the communal meal with Gabrielle and another pilgrim from Taiwan, who started in St. Jean!
Today was 20km, a tough one to start with, but tomorrow is 15km with less of the hills. Hopefully a more enjoyable walk for my companions.
A year ago today I made my first step on the Camino Portugués, and I am again hearing the call for another pilgrimage.
This time, my return visit to the Camino de Santiago is going to be a little different. I’ll be arriving in Sarria for the last 100km of the French Route, however I will not be a solo traveler. Having been inspired by my blog, pictures and stories of my adventures along ‘the way’, my mum, her husband Joe and Joe’s son Chris will be joining me.
This is a huge step out of their comfort zones, but they have nothing to worry about; I’ll be taking up the mantle of guide. Although Sarria to Santiago can be done in 5 days, it will probably take us a little longer.
I’m hoping to stop at ‘Casa Bandaras’ in Vilacha, the private albergue run by Dominique and Ray. It was one of my favourite stops in 2021; all the pilgrims shared a home cooked meal around the dining table with our hosts. It was an enjoyable evening of chat and laughter, a great example of the camaraderie between pilgrims experienced along the way.
We will be calling into Melide for some pulpo and despite my mum already protesting, I’ll get her to try some of the town’s renowned delicacy. We will definitely be stopping ‘Casa Tia Dolores’; the bar that brews it’s own beer and the empty bottles used to make sculptures.
PulpoCasa Tia Dolores
We’ll take up the hunt for the coveted wax stamp (I think I can remember where I got it). Experience albergue life, where I’ll witness their new found appreciation for earplugs! Maybe luck will be on our side and get to see the Botafumeiro swing.
Botafumeiro
I’ve been stressing that they will need to sort their footwear out, to avoid those blisters. Every time I’d visit my mum, she would drag me to an outdoor shop for more gear!
It will also bring back fond memories of my Camino and if my travelling companion’s experience a fraction of what I did, they are sure to enjoy their pilgrimage.
We will be setting off in a months time, and I can’t wait!
It’s that time of year again, where I make my annual pilgrimage to the Keswick Beer Festival. The weather has been very generous this week, which is just as well, as I’d forgotten to pack my waterproof coat!
We arrived late Friday afternoon after battling the M6 car park; the traffic was horrendous. As soon as the car was unloaded, we made a bee line to the rugby club for the festivities.
Sunday was a rest and alcohol free day to recuperate from the over indulgence of the Friday and Saturday. Milling around the cabin we had rented for the week.
When I completed the Two Saints Way in April, while looking around Chester cathedral gift shop, there were pilgrim passports for collecting stamps from the cathedrals throughout the UK. Rekindling my joy for acquiring sellos on the Camino, I had to get one.
So Monday we caught the bus into Carlisle to have an explore and get a stamp from the cathedral. What a little gem it was, the ceiling is very unusual. It is covered in gold stars on blue backgrounds, inspired by Islamic and Moorish architecture.
Designed by the 19th century architect Owen Jones, who had a fascination in this style and spent time abroad studying it. We spent the remainder of the day exploring the city before catching the bus back to Keswick.
Carlisle Cathedral
Tuesday I was itching to climb some Wainwrights, so I hopped on the bus to Honister slate mine, which is situated at the top of Honister Pass.
The bus was packed and with the current hot weather it overheated! Forcing the driver to stop to allow it to cool down; luckily it was within sight of the slate mine. I jumped off deciding to begin my walk from there.
My target for the day was Great Gable. The 7th highest of the Wainwrights. I picked my route so I could tick of three smaller ones on the way up.
Straight from the mine it was a devilish incline following a fence line, that proved useful to hold on to and propel myself upwards. After 40min or so, the incline softened as I reached ‘Grey Knotts’. A gentle gradient led me to the next Wainwright, ‘Brandreth’.
As I summited my second peak of the day, I got my first glimpse of Great Gable. It loomed above its neighbours and looked steep! The path dips down then up Green Gable before fiercely ascending to summit.
Great Gable
Soon I was scrambling up a boulder field, with plenty of loose rocks that would tumble down at any poor foot placement. I persevered and reached the summit. One side ‘Scafell Pike’ dominated the skyline in the distance and to the other ‘Skiddaw’.
It’s Scrambling TimeGreat Gable Summit
I wanted to descend via a different route so I could walk around the north face to get a close up of Gable Crag. However this would prove to be a huge error. On the map, I took the northwest path.
It started off fine, with plenty of rocks and boulders to hold on to. The path that skirted the mountain below came within sight, but all the boulders and rocks had disappeared, leaving a very steep descent with rust coloured loose shale under foot.
I tested it by holding on to the last remaining boulder as my anchor, tentatively placing my foot down. It just slipped sending a stream of dust and stones cascading downhill; far too dangerous to continue this route. I was forced to turn back towards the summit.
After summiting Great Gable for the second time, I descended the way I originally came, arriving back at the slate mine in time to catch the bus back to Keswick.
Honister Pass
Wednesday a walk around Derwent Water was on the cards, making the most of rare sunny weather. The start and end point being the Greta bridge, firstly heading towards Crow Park to follow the shoreline clockwise.
The last time I did this route, it was raining cats and dogs. A complete different experience to today’s sunshine. I have been very lucky with the weather this year.
After a quick pint at Mary’s Mount, we continued on taking a slight detour into Grange for ice cream at a little café, before returning to the route following the western shore.
After helping a local recover three escaped sheep, returning them to their field, the route followed the shady paths along the lake.
Once we reached Portinscale we called into the Derwentwater Hotel for a cheeky pint, enjoying the late afternoon sun in the beer garden. From there it was a short walk back into Keswick.
Thursday, our last day, we took a bus ride to Rosthwaite and Buttermere. Two tiny but picturesque villages. Rosthwaite is nestled in the Barrowdale valley, hardly touched by time.
A hidden slice of heaven, with open fields of wildflowers and grazing cattle, surrounded by the towering Wainwrights.
Buttermere village sits between Buttermere and Crummock Water. It seems to have more pubs and cafés than homes! A village has been on this spot since the Vikings dwelled here.
After some lunch and drinks, we hopped back on the bus returning to Keswick, calling in at ‘The Round’ for dinner completing this year’s Keswick adventure.
Now I need to start preparing for my next adventure in three months time; here is a little clue for what it is.
Stu's Camino 