Stu's Camino

2024 Keswick Adventure

At the beginning of the year I thought I’d be missing out on my annual trip to the lakes because of a clash of leave, however a there was a cancellation, freeing up the rota for me to go. Usually I head to Keswick for the beer festival signalling the start of my adventures around the Lake District, however when the accommodation was reserved, we got the dates mixed up and booked the week before the festival. Doh!

So for the first time since 2013 (excluding the COVID years) I’ll miss the beer tent and the multiple renditions of ‘Mr Brightside’ by the numerous bands playing over the weekend.

We arrived Friday evening and had a couple of pints at the Pheasant Inn then chilled out in the lodge.

We kicked off the Saturday doing the ‘Park Run’. This is a national event, held every Saturday throughout the UK, where you run a 5k route, with the aim to keep fit and improve your personal best.

The Keswick route follows the disused railway track between the town and the village of Threlkeld. Once completed we went for breakfast at a local cafe.

After returning to our accommodation for showers, we did a food shop then met some friends for a drink before our evening meal in ‘The Round’.

Over the last few visits to The Lakes, Joe has been wanting to bag ‘Blencathra’. Sunday morning the weather was on our side, so we seized the day and set out on the 868m Wainwright.

Finding the last spot in the car park, we ascended the fairly steep path and the even steeper zigzag section to ‘Knowe Crags’, the start of the easy bit to the summit. The sun was out, however there was a chilly breeze, making me wish I had brought my gloves along!

The path follows the edge of the crags to the summit, giving fantastic views over Keswick and Thirlmere in the distance. Great for the photo album!

We continued on to ‘Atkinson Pike’ which sits at the end of ‘Mungrisdale Common’ meaning we bagged two Wainwrights, before returning the way we came, opting to forego ‘Sharp Edge’.

Once back in Threlkeld, we had a post walk pint and returned to the lodge for the evening.

Monday brought clouds and a constant threat of rain. A place I have been meaning to get to for a while is the ‘Langdale Quarry’ or better known as the ‘Cathedral Cave’. This is an old slate quarry just outside Little Langdale, that has a cavern supported by an impressive stone pillar.

We got the bus to Ambleside then a connection to Elterwater. After lunch at a little bistro, we set off towards Little Langdale.

We ascended up a rock strewn road/footpath to reach the neighbouring valley and descended into the little hamlet. From there you follow a country lane, over a ford into a wooded hillock where the quarry resides. A short walk westward you reach the disclaimer sign on a gate post, warning of falling rocks etc.

Following the path upwards you reach an information sign outside a tunnel the leads to the cavern.

Using the light from my phone, ducking, I stepped into the tunnel and proceeded through the dank gloom heading to the light at the end, to sound of splashing echoing with each of my footsteps.

At the other side I was greeted with the spectacular view of the cavern. The pictures on the internet do not do it justice nor the scale of the chamber.

We headed back to Elterwater, crossing an old drovers footbridge over a stream from ‘Little Langdale Tarn’; known as Slaters Bridge.

We returned the way we came, and after having the customary post walk pint at the Britannia Inn, at Elterwater, we caught the buses back to Keswick where we had dinner at the recently open ‘Peri Fresco’ restaurant.

According to the weather forecast, Tuesday was meant to be a wash out. So we had planned to do indoor activities. Elina took us bouldering, an activity I’ve never done.

With all the grace of stick insect I tackled the red and orange routes. Some had overhangs that I reckon only Spider-Man could climb; thankfully the floor was cushioned!

With tired arms and muscles I didn’t know existed, we went for brunch. The rain still hadn’t abated, and keeping to the indoors we went around the pencil museum.

It detailed the mining of graphite and the uses through the years. At one point it was worth more than gold, and smugglers would deal in this commodity at ‘The George’ in Keswick.

Those that operated in those circles ended up have black hands from handling the stolen graphite, hence the origin of ‘The Black Market’. It also detailed the manufacture of the pencils that had maps and compasses secreted inside, for captured WW2 pilots.

We pottered around Keswick, had cocktails at the ‘Derwent Walker, then finished off the day with a meal at the ‘Pheasant’.

The weather hadn’t improved much on Wednesday. Continuing with the indoor theme, we headed to ‘Rydal Mount’ the home of William Wordsworth. A bus ride from Keswick puts you at the bottom of the hill which the grade one listed building sits on.

This beautiful cottage and its extensive garden, looks over Rydal Water. We went around the cottage that is still owned and resided by the descendants of Wordsworth. Painted portraits and manuscripts are displayed through out, giving the history of the famous poet.

It was a pleasure to walk around the gardens, that was the inspiration of many of his works. You could understand with the variety of colours, plants and the views of fells above.

We hopped back on the bus to Grasmere for lunch and for the famous gingerbread the area is renowned for. We returned to Keswick and after a couple of drinks at the ‘Dog and Gun’, before a chilled evening back at the lodge.

Thursday I wanted to get some wainwrights bagged, specifically around Buttermere however there were showers throughout the morning that I didn’t fancy getting caught in, on the fells.

The one activity we hadn’t partook yet was crazy golf. Off to Hope park we went for the 18 hole course; this year Joe was the victor.

After lunch we hit a few watering holes we hadn’t been to before. A nice craft beer establishment and a wine bar before returning to the lodge for food and a night of board games. A relaxed night ready for the drive home in the morning.

Thus this draws the end to my Keswick adventure for 2024.

The Primitivo

After a travel intensive end to 2023, I had a quiet Christmas and New Year with friends and family. The dawn of 2024 marks a very busy first half of the year for me at work, and as I had sneaked in a few trips late last year, my annual leave allowance has been depleted; which doesn’t reset until April. An early UK pilgrimage to 2024 is doubtful. Also it is unlikely my usual Lake District Adventure will happen this year, as we are at minimum staffing levels in June on account of leave, and me being late to get my request in!

2024 also brings with it my 40th birthday, and I can’t let this milestone pass without an adventure! So I’ve managed to find three weeks in September/October where none of my colleagues have time off, when I plan to walk the Camino Primitivo.

The Primitivo starts in Oviedo and follows a 320km (199mile) route to Santiago de Compostela. It is considered the most difficult of the 7 main pilgrimages but boasts the most scenic. I first learnt about it from Javier, a peregrino I met on the Camino Frances back in 2021. While killing the ‘Moscas’ (flies) in the albergue garden at Terradillos de los Templarios. He was telling me about all the Camino’s he had walked and the Primitivo being his favourite.

The route is very hilly which was confirmed by an Italian pilgrim who I shared a dorm with at the albergue in O Pedrouzo last year, on my Mini Camino Frances. Not one to be deterred by a few hills, what better challenge to mark my 40th with?!

This route is considered to be the first and original pilgrimage to Santiago. It was undertaken by King Alfonso II of Asturias, who began at Oveido, the original capitol of the region. When the sarcophagus of St. James was discovered, Alfonso travelled to the where Santiago de Compostela now sits, to verify the remains. When he arrived, he confirmed that it was the Apostles body thus making him the first pilgrim of the way of St. James. There even is a statue dedicated to the Asturian king, near the ‘Mercado de Abastos’, a market area renowned for it’s fresh food and flowers, not far from the Cathedral.

To follow in his footsteps I am going to need get myself a new pair of trainers. My trusty Salomons that have seen me through 3 Caminos and various adventures around the UK, are showing their toil and hard life! Sadly I’m going to have to put them into retirement; by far the best trainers I have owned.

Like all long distance walkers, I have an obsession over footwear as they can make or break the journey. Many of my fellow peregrinos have suffered due to their choice of walking attire. While on my long distance hikes, I can’t help but observe what people are wearing on their feet. One brand I see a lot, especially on the continent is ‘Hoka’, and they do look comfy! After some researching, I have settled on the Challenger 7 from that brand.

I’ve put them on order and should be arriving next week! I am going to break them in on some day walks over the next few months, which will give me the opportunity to get my blogging fix until September!

Cyprus

As the cold wet and windy weather is heralding winter’s approach in Britain, I took a weeks leave to visit the warmer climes of Paphos, Cyprus with my dad and brother.

This was the first time I have ventured to this Mediterranean island, which will afford me a new pin on my world map.

A 7am flight meant it was an early start to get to the airport, but check-in and security was painless; before long we were at the bar having a customary airport beer! With a four hour flight ahead of me, I prepared by downloading the Netflix series ‘All the light we cannot see’.

Two and half episodes later the descent into Paphos began and before I knew it, we were at the hotel. After offloading the luggage into our rooms, we spent the afternoon and evening at the hotel watching the entertainment.

I even took part in a game of bingo winning €25, although I had to do a dance to receive my winnings; good job for the few beers I had earlier giving me a little Dutch courage.

The next day we had an explore of the immediate area, starting at the beach and walking along the promenade to the harbour, guarded by an Ottoman fort.

After having a gander around this old protector, we had racked up a thirst, prompting us to hunt for a cold glass of lemonade. Once our refreshing beverages were drunk, we returned to the hotel for lunch then in the afternoon walked in the opposite direction along main road.

We found the entrance to a 4th century BC necropolis, known as the ‘Tombs of the Kings’. Not wanting exhaust all the local attractions in the first couple of days, it was a plan for tomorrow.

My first time to a necropolis and for €2.50 it didn’t disappoint. The tombs had been cut into the stone with the “newer” tombs in a ‘Greek Dorian’ style, that had well preserved columns. The arid landscape above and the ancient structures below felt like a set of an Indiana Jones film.

Despite the name including royalty, no monarchs were actually laid to rest here. It was for the wealthy and important town officials.

Due to earthquakes and the erosion of time, some of the exposed rock faces looked like windswept desert canyons.

Having finished our tomb raiding, we stopped at a bar opposite the entrance for a drink. Enjoying the shady terrace watching the world go by, one of those hop on, hop off site seeing buses drove past. That was tomorrows activity sorted.

We asked the waitress about them and she had a leaflet left behind by a previous customer. They depart from the harbour hourly, perfect!

Our first stop was Paphos Old Town. The name is very deceptive, as it is very modern, with high street shops, trendy bars and ice cream parlours. I was expecting narrow winding streets lined with rustic buildings.

The oldest building we found was a former church of Ayia Sofia, that was repurposed as a mosque during the Ottoman conquest of the island.

We found a shaded square for a drink before heading back to the bus stop for the 25 min past pick up. We arrived at 24 min to see the bus heading down the road.

The next drop of would be at the archeological museum, which was a 10 minute walk. Enough time to walk there, look around the ancient artefacts and catch the next bus in an hours time.

Humans have been living on Cyprus since the Paleolithic Era, evidenced by stone bowls and flint arrowheads. It was interesting to see the evolution of technology through the ages and the progressive detail of carvings and artwork.

We took the bus back to the harbour after passing by Agioi Anargyroi church, Fabrica Hill with its cave systems and St. Paul’s Pillar. Our site seeing itinerary for the next day.

We headed to the huge church, built in a traditional Greek style giving an appearance of it being a lot older than it actually is. Disappointingly it was closed, only opening for services this time of year.

Next we went to the St. Paul’s Pillar and the ancient Basilica which is now a church for St. Paul. Around 40AD, St. Paul arrived on the island to preach Christianity. The ruling officials, tied him to a pillar and lashed him.

He did not balk and withstood the torture; because of that, the officials were impressed and allowed him to stay and preach.

On the way to Fabrica Hill, we passed a tree with bits of cloth hanging from the branches, and below there is a small shrine. This is known locally as the ‘Sacred Tree’. It is believed that if you leave a piece of cloth on a branch, you will be cured of all your Illnesses.

A short walk from the tree, we began the spelunking. A ramp leading into a cavernous chamber, with smaller ones leading off it. A huge pillar appears like a strut keeping the roof aloft.

A set of steps carved into the rear take you up to other chambers and eventually on top of the hill. A metal walkway that looks more like a water slide, gives views over Paphos.

With my lofty view, I saw a bus pass by below with ‘Coral Bay’ on the front; which sounds like it’s worth a look. Guess where we went the next day.

20min bus ride and the sandy beach of Coral Bay offered a typical tourist location. The town consisted of restaurants and bars all packed side by side. It had a “Little Britain” feel about it. After a quick paddle in the sea and lunch at a bar we hopped back on the bus to return to Paphos.

The next day was our last. We took a walk in the morning to old town, had a drink in a bar before returning to the hotel where we relaxed by the pool. Not wanting to over do it for our journey home in the morning.

The flight back was a gruelling 5 hours and I exhausted the remaining episodes to the Netflix series and almost finished a book I brought along.

Overall it was a great week in the sun, a bit of a shocker to return to the cold weather. Now I need to start thinking of my next adventure!

Amsterdam and More

This week I have been on a training course in the Netherlands through work. While I wasn’t in the classroom, I was exploring the area of Amsterdam.

My course was in Nieuw Vennep, just southwest of the capital; my hotel in between at Hoofddorp.

The plane landed Sunday and wanting to see the ‘Body Worlds’ exhibition before it closed, I dumped my bags at the hotel and jumped on the train into ‘Dam’. The heavens were pouring, luckily I remembered my umbrella!

The exhibition is about the human body; Gunther von Hagens developed a method called ‘plastination’, which involves injecting a resin into dead bodies, preserving the organs for educational purposes for doctors etc, to study them better rather than having them suspended in jars.

It was over 6 floors, with each level dedicated to certain bodily functions, starting with the nervous system. It was a fascinating, although a little macabre. There were some odd displays, like three skinless people playing poker!

Monday kicked off the course and with the very wet weather which continued into Tuesday I stayed around Hoofddorp. I found a very good tapas restaurant, ‘La Cubanita’, that is worth visiting if you are ever in the area.

Wednesday saw a break in the rain. Taking advantage of this, I jumped on the train to ‘Leiden’. What a gem this city is. More picturesque and quieter than Amsterdam. A better vibe and plenty of restaurants to choose from.

I went up to the castle ruins and around the cathedral; although it was closed. If I had never been to Amsterdam before, Leiden would be what I would expect it to look like.

I had dinner at a restaurant on the canal side before sampling the beer at some nearby bars.

Thursday brought Storm Ciaran to the Dutch shores. Schools here closed at midday and everyone hunkered down to weather the gale force winds. It was due to dissipate around 1900h, but the trees outside my hotel were almost horizontal at that time, so I opted to remain there for the night.

Friday it had all calmed down, and after passing my course I was back out exploring. This time I was in ‘Haarlem’.

Another quaint and picturesque city, although I prefer Leiden. More historic buildings and aesthetically pleasing streets to explore. Being a Friday night most places were fully booked, however I managed to find an Italian restaurant.

The evening was still young, so I jumped back on the train and headed back to Leiden to sample more of the watering holes, before catching the last train back to Hoofddorp.

Saturday it was a midday flight back to Blighty, however I’m only on British soil for a week before I jet set off to Cyprus for a week’s vacation!

Camino de Fisterra – 3 Weeks On

It is hard to believe three weeks ago, I was at the end of the world; time has flown! I have managed to find a gap in my schedule to put together a video of our adventure on the Camino de Fisterra. I hope you enjoy.

Now it’s time to start thinking and planning my next adventure. It will have to be a spectacular one, as 2024 will bring on my big Four-Oh! I have a few ideas; ‘The Old Way’ following the footsteps of Geoffrey Chaucer and his Canterbury Tales or take on the oldest of the Caminos, in the shadow of the first pilgrim, King Alfonso II; ‘The Primitivo’.

Mini Camino Frances – 2 Weeks On

Two weeks ago today we arrived in to Santiago after covering the 110km from Sarria; the last portion of the Camino Frances. Getting back to normality after leaving the pilgrim life is never a smooth transition. The post pilgrimage blues can bit a kicker, even more so for my traveling companions, who will be experiencing this for the first time.

Reaching Santiago is never the end for a peregrino, going forward you see life under a different light and realise St. James Cathedral isn’t the finish line of the pilgrimage; in fact it is merely the beginning.

As an evocation of our journey I have put together a little video that can be found here:

I hope you enjoy seeing a little more to our adventure. Now to work on the Camino de Fisterra!

Camino de Fisterra Day 5 – Corcubion to Fisterra

Although it was a short day, it felt like it was a long walk. The very early dinner of only tapas and nowhere for breakfast until we reached Fisterra, meant we were running on empty.

As it was a short day, we had a lay in, setting the alarm for 0700h. 30mins later we were out the door straight on to a hill that was fairly steep.

The Galician coast has numerous high ridges that form peninsulas. Corcubion sits on one side of one and the route crosses over into Estorde, where it follows the coast to the opposing peninsula where Faro de Fisterra sits.

Once at the top of the ridge, we could see Fisterra lighthouse in the distance; barely visible in the predawn light. As we came into Estorde the dawn sky was awash with morning colours.

We hoped to stop for breakfast here but everywhere was closed, seems places also take Tuesdays off!

We continued on, through Sardineira, up and over a small wooded hill then followed the coast into Fisterra. We were flagging a little, which prompted a bit of Camino Magic.

A hotel opened their breakfast to pilgrims, indicated by a chalk written sign saying “you are 15 steps away from breakfast”.

With fully bellies, we now had a spring in our steps and it was a breeze into Fisterra. We passed our New Zealand friend in town, who made it despite her foot problem.

Our journey was not over yet though, there was still 3km until the end of the world. The road rises steeply out of town before a long steady incline to the lighthouse.

This bit seemed to go on for ever, as it did last time. Eventually we got to the final 300m which is flat! The 0.00km way marker stood before us, a welcoming sight of triumph.

Once we had the photos taken we went to the very edge of the peninsula, a cross marks the spot where pilgrims leave something behind to represent their old life and go forward anew.

There was only one thing left to do, have a drink at the end of the world. We sat on a sun terrace with a cold beer to celebrate the end of the Camino.

We walked back into Fisterra to the hotel; to my mum’s Chagrin, it is on top of a hill. Once showered we had pizza in town before heading to the beach to watch the sun set over the Atlantic Ocean.

We now have a couple of days in Fisterra before we make our way back to Santiago by bus, ready for our flight back to Blighty on Saturday.

Camino de Fisterra Day 4 – Olveiroa to Corcubion

It was a long and tough one today due to no stops between Hospital and Cee. We truly were in the wilderness for most of the journey.

We weren’t the first out of the albergue for a change, two peregrinos were out before 0600h! We set off around 0640h, ascending in the dark on the last of the big hills for this Camino.

After 4km we arrived at Logoso for breakfast, stood outside waiting for a taxi were our friends from Acrington, we shared a pilgrims meal with, at Santa Marina.

They are running out of time, so they are skipping ahead to Cee and walking to Fisterra from there. We wished them a buen camino.

Dawn had arrived once breakfast was eaten, however there were no red skies, just grey clouds covering the heavens. It was a steady ascent up to Hospital taking the right hand path leading to Fisterra.

The route passes through woodlands that cover the hills that lead to the coast. After a short descent, we came to Cruceiro Marco do Couto. The traditional point where pilgrims would decide whether to take the left path to Muxia or the Right to Fisterra.

It was in these woods that a Bishop in the 15th century while on pilgrimage, witnessed werewolves and strange creatures. He called them Vákner. A local sculptor has made a huge metal statue of this beast.

The path undulated until the little chapel of Santa Ermida das Neves. Over the next 3 km it steadily rises before plateauing out before the speedy descent into Cee.

It was tough going with no amenities on this stretch. A chapel for San Pedro Martir, marks the last of the big hills. It was level from there until just before Cee. On the way into the town, we met our New Zealand friend from Santa Marina. She has picked up a foot injury and her pace had dropped to a crawl, but she was still in good spirits.

We stopped at the first bar for a cold drink then moved on to find somewhere to eat, however it appears most places are closed on Mondays. With tired legs and empty bellies we made our way to our accommodation for the night, to check in.

Luckily the chap at the desk pointed out a bar that will be open. When we turned up the kitchen had just closed, however the waiter persuaded them to stay open for tapas. Camino Magic!

Camino de Fisterra Day 3 – Santa Marina to Olveiroa

After two long days in the Sun, I had promised my mum this would be a short day, and I delivered; a 12.5km stroll.

We were the first out of the albergue, way before 0700h. There was no mist this morning and the stars watched us from above. If it hadn’t been for the full moon, I reckon we would have been able to see the Milky Way.

Today mainly followed the road apart from a short section that leads up to the highest point on this route. We made good timing arriving at the summit just before dawn arrived. The sky was growing redder as the Sun approached.

From there it was down hill into Lago for breakfast. The route follows a country road weaving between wooded hills, before flattening out into Ponte Olveira.

In this stretch a dog was sunbathing in the road and the passing cars had to drive around him. However, seeing us approach gave him enough cause to trot over wagging his tail for a head scratch.

A short distance on we stopped for a drink at Ponte Olveira then moved on to our destination, Olveiroa. We arrived before check in time, thus we relaxed in the sun with a beer.

The albergue we chose has towels! And it is a lot better than the albergue I stayed at, two years ago. With the afternoon free, it felt like a rest day, which is good, as tomorrow is another long day.

Camino de Fisterra Day 2 – Negreira to Santa Marina

It was another toughie with the heat and the ascent for the most of the first 10km for breakfast.

We set off before 0700h to beat the heat and it was very misty, which hindered the drying of our clothes; we spent a bit of time attaching our undergarments to our bags before setting off.

We made our way with head torches on through quiet village streets and woodland, only able to see 5 metres or so in front of us. As the ascent continued we broke above the mist layer into the sunshine as dawn arrived. The light was spectacular and I was having a whale of a time taking pictures; playing with the sunlight through the trees.

It really gave a scenic and peaceful vibe to the walk. At around 10km we had our first stop, at ‘A Pena’, for breakfast. The path from here joins the road which it pretty much follows until Vilaserio. The sun was out now, and an ice cream was on the cards.

The next it was an 8km stretch to the finishing point for the day with no watering holes in between. The temperature kept on rising but thankfully the worst of the hills were done for the day.

Once we arrived at the albergue we forwent the chores and showers for a couple of cold beers. Once we had cooled down and thirst quenched, we then got on with our albergue chores.

We had the pilgrims meal at a table with peregrinos from Canada, New Zealand and the UK. We shared stories of our adventures, a good time was had.