Santiago Day!

Our last day on the Camino again started before dawn, however the route starts through urban areas and main roads that were sufficiently lit to keep our torches packed.

By the time we left the sodium lamps, dawn was breaking. The route seemed busier than the previous days, perhaps those who would’ve started later, all wanted to leave earlier to get to Santiago sooner.

The route was easy, alternating from paved and soft gravel tracks. A couple of times there were wooded sections, to inject a bit of colour.

It was also a chilly morning, and at A Escravitude, we stopped for warm drinks. A quick visit to the church for the stamp and we joined the flow of pilgrims.

Memories of walking this section with my Camino pals back in 2022 returned as we progressed towards Santiago.

Then after a cold drink at O Milladoiro, we got our first look at the cathedral in the distance. This gave us a boost of energy for the last 6km.

Steadily we arrived at the outskirts following a main road from the south. Our hotel was on route; practicality influenced us to drop off our packs before continuing.

Just before our final stretch, I met the Italian duo I had a meal with back in Marinha. Camino magic to reunite us for the last bit.

We weaved through the crowds, entering the Obradoiro Plaza. Jubilant pilgrims danced around or laid gazing at the cathedral. Then out of nowhere the Canadian and American duo we had been chatting to over the last few days appeared. They gave us a congratulatory hug and took photos for us.

We moved on to get our Compostelas; walking towards us, certificates in hand, were the Irish contingent we’d met on our second day.

Effectively we had reunited with everyone we shared the journey with.

It was time to get a beer, and as per tradition, I took us to Bar Charra. I’ve always had a drink here on every Camino.

Evening was arriving and I needed to clean my pilgrim aroma – we headed back to the hotel to shower.

Everyone was tired and didn’t feel like heading back out. Me and Pete when to a local mercado and got some snacks and drinks for the evening.

Tomorrow we head back to Porto by bus, a four hour trip that just took us 14 days to cover!

Distance: 26.49km

We took a rest day in Padrón in order to arrive in Santiago on Saturday. This was to avoid the crowds and accommodation issues caused be the medical convention being hosted in the city.

After a glorious late morning sleep in, we headed into the town centre to do some washing and eat breakfast at a local cafeteria.

We looked around the St. James Church, to see the mooring post, said to be the one Santiago’s boat was tied to, when his apostles brought back to Spain to be buried.

We then went to the river, sitting on a bench to soak a bit of sun and watch the pilgrims pass through. We opted for a large lunch today at a restaurant within a small plaza.

We waited around until check-in for the apartment. Once in we had a siesta – got to get as much energy as possible for Santiago Day.

In the evening we had some tapas (I had to have Padrón Peppers) a couple of beers then returned to relax in the apartment for the night.

Very much a day of rest.

Ready in 15mins, tourigrino woes and stopping in a little gem of a place; just a shame we couldn’t keep it for a second night.

Someone’s alarm went off at 4am in the albergue. I turned over knowing I had two more hours of sleep. When I opened my eyes again it was 6.45am. We’d agreed to start walking at 7!

As a true pilgrim, I had done most my packing before bed, to minimise the disturbance to the sleeping peregrinos in the morning. By 7.02am I was out the door!

It was definitely a torch morning, passing through woodland and country lanes; a waning moon meant no ambient light at all.

About 9am we had breakfast at a busy cafe at O Cruceiro. Waves upon waves of pilgrims arrived and passed us. It seemed the busiest today.

Unfortunately, most were tourigrinos. A trio in hi-vis coats epitomised the worst kind. Talking loudly, music blaring from their phone, day packs and generally being obnoxious. At one point one sprinted ahead to play on exercise equipment at a park – I just thought, “you wouldn’t be doing that if you started in Porto“

The route was easy but a little uninspiring. We stopped again at a village called San Miguel before reaching Padrón, stopping for food.

We had to go past the city for a couple of kilometres to Iría Flavia, where we had booked a quaint little bungalow. Nicely decorated, conveniently located in a quiet village. Restaurant and grocery shop nearby. We went for a few drinks, got some food and cooked our dinner back at our digs.

We finished the evening relaxing. We tried to book it for a second night when we decided to change our plans for a rest day – unfortunately reserved. We have to move to another apartment back in Padrón tomorrow.

Distance: 21.66km

The first day since Vigo that I fully felt normal, and an easy days walk into the town known for its thermal baths.

The albergue was a rarity, it included breakfast and I was able to eat! We left under the street lamps crossing the bridge the town is named for, heading to the railway line which the route follows for most of the morning.

The climbs were negligible. The Way was mostly through quiet rural villages and wooded sections.

At 10km ish we stopped at a cafe for brunch then continued on. The walking was easy and not too warm.

After one more quick break we covered the last 6km to our stage end. Over today, the crowds are noticeable. Very many pilgrims on the road, a lot of them only covering the last 100km for their compostela.

We did a clothes wash and had a meal at a restaurant on the banks of the river that crosses the town. Tomorrow will be our penultimate day walking on this pilgrimage.

Distance: 21.4km

Another yellow weather warning for rain and a slow improvement for the shortest day on this pilgrimage.

No aches and the nausea had gone when I woke, even able to eat at satsuma and some blueberries, but anything more would have been too much; improvement from the day before.

It was a late start on account of the location to drop mum’s luggage off for the transport service, didn’t open until 8.30am.

Following the route we got to the iconic picture location for the Portugués, a crowd already lined up waiting their turn. Here is the one from 4 years ago.

After Pontesampaio, the route heads up into the hills, covering the only climb of the day. Thunder was rumbling in the distance, and as we progressed it grew darker. Just as the first drops fell, we ducked into a cafeteria at Ganderón – my stomach still churning in knots.

We waited out the heavy storm until it eased. Ponchos on and we entered the rain. There is an option to take a complementario route, following the river into Pontevedra. This being under tree cover, the shelter decided for us.

By the time we reached town, the rain had stopped, as well as my stomach pain. We had to wait around for check in. Finding a cafe is had a tea and tempted fate with some mini doughnuts.

In the evening, I played it safe and had a few slices of pizza – moving in the right direction.

Distance: 14.97km

This for me was the hardest day on all my Caminos so far. It was a struggle. I had eaten something that didn’t agree with me. I vomited a couple of times during the night, no sleep and everything ached.

Another pre-dawn start, making our way through the city under street lights. When we finally reached the outskirts, there was a very aggressive hill, that took us up to the villages that sit on the side of the estuary below.

We had views up and down, scallop farms dotted along the waters. There was only one cafe along this section, about halfway to Redondela.

The shade from the hill kept it cool as we passed through villages and woodlands, before dropping into Redondela, at which time the sun was out in full force.

We stopped for a cold drink in the town, the queue outside the albergue was already snaking around the courtyard in front; there was still an hour before it opens – glad we’re moving on.

Leaving Redondela, we baked under the sun, ascending the steep undulating path through woods into Arcade. We had booked an apartment today, and I was glad for it.

I pretty much slept from checking in until the morning. Still feeling terrible, I could stomach any food and still ached.

Even though the topography wasn’t bad compared to the hard sections on the Norte. That fact I was feeling so drained, unable to eat and all my muscles and joints hurt. It was a tough day.

Distance: 24.39km

First proper pre-dawn start and we hit the big port city of Vigo, with its extensive dockyards and steep steps!

The albergue was one of the best for this trip so far, only negatives were, one toilet for each sex for entire place and the dryer, didn’t dry – had flash backs to my stay at Roncevalles! Each bunk was complete with a curtain, electrical point, light and locker

I was ready for 6.45am however I had to wait until Pete and mum made their way from Baiona.

It was good to set off in the dark, dawn slowly arriving. The lights across the bay from the buildings lining the shore, had a magical air.

We opted for the Litoral path today, rather than the true Portugués Coastal. It is slightly longer but you spend the day bay the sea. Fitting since it’s our last day before moving inland.

For this stage we swapped the yellow arrows for green. At about 9am we stopped for breakfast at a cafe in Nigrán. The Italian pilgrims I shared a meal with in Marinha were also there.

We steadily followed the coastal path as the day grew hotter; by midday it was quite warm. As we got into Bouzas, the beach and promenade were alive with people. An obstacle course had been set up, in the same vein as tough mudder, but with sand.

The last bit took us through the dockyards into Vigo. The 90 bed albergue had plenty of room. I later met up with mum and Pete for food and clothes washing.

That concluded our last day on the coast, we now head inland to join the central route.

Distance: 23.63km

An easy short day along the Atlantic coast and finished by lunch!

We left at 8am with it being a 13km day, with dawn just about to arrive. The air was cool by the coast, the sea mist clinging to the shore.

After 2km we had breakfast at a cafe on a campsite. The owner of the apartment we stayed at, advised us to stick to the coastal road into Baiona. There is a lighthouse that has been converted into a bar with views of the Vigo estuary; It was also a flatter route, easier for my mum.

By 1030h we were having a caña on the terrace, watching the ships heading to Vigo. We continued on following the coast, the waves giving an impressive display. I kept stopping to film them crashing into the rocks.

Before we knew it, we arrived into Baiona. We had a large lunch, the pilgrim hunger had gripped us.

I left mum and Pete, to continue on 3km to my albergue; there was no space in the one here. 30min later I was checking in, showered and washing my clothes. I had a drink with three Irish pilgrims I had met on day 2, before walking back to Baiona to meet up with mum and Pete for dinner.

After a couple of drinks and a very large tortilla y potata between us, I returned to my digs for the night.

Tomorrow is Vigo and the last day on the coast. After Vigo we head inland to join the central at Redondela.

It’s hard to believe, that 7 days ago we were walking out of Porto. It seems a lifetime ago.

Distance: 15.81km

Speed boat fun and missing hours. Bienvenido a España.

Just after 7am we made our way to the launch spot for the speed boat to take us over into Spain. In a trip that took minutes, we time traveled an hour ahead.

The route lead us over a wooded hill into A Guarda, where we stopped for breakfast. By the time we left the town it was close to 10am and we’d only covered a few kilometres. The hour missed with the time change from Portugal to Spain, made it seem we were at a really slow pace.

There were far more pilgrims on trail now, A Guarda is another starting point for those wanting to walk the minimal distance for the Compostela.

The route follows the sea with a rugged coastline for a bit, before joining a main road. There were a few sections like this, which made for dull walking.

Around halfway we stopped at a bar for a break, enjoying the sun on the terrace then continued on. It was pretty much the same – coastal stretched then road stretch into Porto Mougás.

We had booked an apartment today due to lack of space. Once showered we went to the bar and mingled with the pilgrims, while the sunset over the Atlantic.

Day 7 will be a short one, with the stage end being booked, we are having to stop short.

Distance: 25.15km

The longest and last day in Portugal, tomorrow we cross into Spain.

The air was cold when I left the albergue at 7am. I was tempted to don my gloves, but I stuck it out. The route winds its way through the town and up a little, leading into Areosa.

I caught Pete and mum up outside a cafe; their accommodation was further into town than mine.

The path pretty much followed cobbled village roads at an elevation to see the Atlantic waves from afar. Even from this distance, you could tell, they were big!

At Carreço we stopped for breakfast, a solid 10km done. The path was pretty much the same into Armada. Here we came across a pretty little cafe, ‘Cafe de Cabanas’. Set in a garden next to the river; little bistro tables with flowery parasols decorated the garden – we had to stop!

Glad we did, as the way went off road, climbing through woodland, reaching the highest point for the day. Over the other side, we descended into Vila Praia de Ancora.

In the square we had lunch before joining the coastal path into Caminha. The sea breeze kept the sun from cooking us. The waves were large enough, they were curling over, crashing into the rocky shoreline.

For the last 4km you move away from the coast following a railway line into Caminha. We passed an albergue that had a sign “Full”. I checked my Camino apps. They were all full, and the municipal one was temporarily closed.

There was no choice, I had to book a hotel last minute, there weren’t many vacancies left in the town.

We had to finish off booking the last couple of days. Santiago was pretty much full. There is a medical convention in the city, which has meant literally every hotel was full. The only few rooms available were going for €600+ a night.

This meant for some creative thinking. The solution was a rest day in Padrón, the start of the last stage, and arrive into Santiago a day later.

Distance: 29.2km