Bit of a long one today, wading through brambles and nettles, with a spot of wildlife rescue.
Wokefield Estate is clearly a popular location for lads golfing holidays. Sleep was little due to them coming and going throughout the night and holding phone calls in the corridors at 5am!
At 8.30am we made our way across the fields into Mortimer, calling at the shop for supplies. Unfortunately the pub with the stamp wasn’t open this early.
Crossing the Border
Over fields and through small woods led us into Silchester to collect the stamp at St. Mary’s church. Here is also the site of a Roman town, ‘Calleva Atrebatvm’.
It was a fairly large town for its time, the size evident from the remains of the surrounding wall that is still present.
The scenery that followed wasn’t very inspiring. The fields turned to metal structures where solar farms are being developed; power lines crisscrossed overhead. We were glad to reach Bramley, stopping for lunch at the farm shop and collecting the stamp from the church.
Then began the battle with brambles and nettles. The stinging, snagging tendrils grabbed at our bags and attacked my legs.
At Pamber End we called in at the pub for a cold drink and the stamp. The beer garden and sun enticed us to stay longer than we should have; we still had some way to go.
Fields and triffids continued to ‘Monk Sherborne’. While making our way along a wooded border, I spotted an owl that had its wing snared on barbed wire.
The poor thing was weak. I supported its weight off the wing and tried to untangle it, but the sharp metal had bored into its flesh. The wire would need cutting to free it – wire cutters are not a tool within a pilgrim’s arsenal.
I pulled its talons to the wire letting it hang like a bat to ease the pressure on the wing, and flagged down a dog walker. She knew the farmer and went to get his help to free the bird.
I left the owl in their capable hands; we couldn’t hang around as evening was approaching fast and we still had 5km to go.
The descent into Basingstoke passed the golf course, over a very busy road, through a farm and down a wooded tunnel into Worting, completing the stage at the church.
A long one today, but that is part of the journey.
A nice gentle start to break us into this pilgrimage, with perfect weather and some nice pubs along the way.
At 8am we set off from St. James Church, next to Forbury Gardens and Reading Abbey ruins. The busy streets from the night before now empty save a few dog walkers.
We followed the route to the canal where we got a picture with a Camino way-marker in the Galician style. On it, it read ‘690 miles’; the distance to Santiago de Compostela.
Mum and Me
There was a detour from here, due to repair works on the towpath that brought us through apartment blocks, until returning to the river Kennet.
The towpath took us through the restaurant and bar areas before giving way to the suburbs and eventually to the countryside – glad to be away from city.
I settled into the walk, watching the waterfowl glide along the water with the cathartic chug of passing narrow boats.
At 7km in, we reached the ‘Cunning Man’ pub, right on the towpath. Ideal stop for a tea and collecting the first stamp on the way. We missed the one at the start, as the museum closed at 5 last night and it isn’t open on Sundays.
Rojito and Mojito
The path continued on along the river, and at one point it was overgrown with nettles, adding a bit of jeopardy for wearing shorts today.
At Sheffield Bottom, we had lunch at the Fox and Hounds, getting the second stamp of the day. Two pilgrims entered for the stamp and moved on. Their bags suspiciously small for a journey to Southampton.
The route moves away from the river past a nature reserve then across countryside and small woodlands. A few gentle hills led us into Burghfield.
Here we left the SJW to head to our digs for the night. We booked a hotel at Wokefield Estate; a golf club/conference/leisure centre. Bit posh for scruffy pilgrims, but unfortunately I had no response from the sanctuary network representative in Mortimer.
We really mixed it up this year, rather than spending our annual week in ‘The Lakes’, we stopped at a holiday cottage in Wellesbourne, Warwickshire; a village between Warwick and Stratford-upon-Avon.
Day One
Check-in wasn’t until 1600h and Wellesbourne being only a 40min drive from my home, I had a leisurely morning, meandering into town and some last minute packing before I met my family at the Stags Head, Wellesbourne. Kicking off our week in Shakespeare Country.
We did well with the accommodation, a converted stable on the grounds of Wellesbourne Hall. Beautifully done up, with 4 bedrooms, three of which en-suite and a hot tub under a covered patio.
A quick trip the local supermarket for supplies and a chippy take-away, we settled in for the night.
Day Two
Straight off the bat we ran the Stratford-upon-Avon Parkrun in the rain – reminiscent of last year! The course is a pretty much flat circular route around a park and along the banks of the Avon. Despite 460 runners I was on track for a sub 27min – the fastest this year for me – only on the last corner, my earbud fell out causing me to stop and search for it.
I couldn’t find it.
Seeing all the runners I’d overtaken, pass me, I sprinted to the finish line. getting 27min 13sec according to my watch.
That’s two adventures and two lost tech so far this year! They say bad things come in threes, worrisome for next week!
We warmed up for breakfast at a local cafe before returning to the cottage, spending the rest of the day relaxing and playing board games – I also got new earbuds delivered.
Day Three
The plan for the day was a walk to Chesterton Windmill. A stroll from the quaint village of Harbury to a 17th century windmill built by Sir Edward Peyto. Unique with a six-arched base overlooking the Warwickshire countryside where a Roman village once resided.
I wanted to get my drone up, but with the wind and my current luck with tech, I opted to keep it packed away.
We returned to Harbury, in time for an annual wheelbarrow race around the town. Participants in costumes pushed their team mate in a barrow along a circuit passing the pubs.
We popped into the crown for lunch then made our way into Warwick for a quick look around, finishing the day with a Chinese takeaway at the cottage.
Day Four
Another energetic start. We tried our hand at padel. The new craze; tennis come squash. After circumnavigating the confusing roadworks outside Stratford, we got the Padel centre. Two hours of retrieving balls from neighbouring courts ensued.
Great fun and plenty of laughs as well as a cardio workout. We had a drink and a snack at the onsite bar then headed into Stratford itself. Spending the afternoon exploring the town and having a drink in the oldest pub, The Garrick.
We had hoped for a Shakespeare play, but when we looked at booking leading up to this holiday, all the tickets had been sold.
Day Five
A day at Bicester Village shopping was on the cards. Dodging heavy rain showers we got some bargains. I got myself a new running shirt and mid-layer for walking in the offers – I love a bargain.
We then made our way back to Warwick for a couple of drinks then returned to the cottage for a dip in the hot tub.
Day Six
We popped into the Cotswolds visiting Burton-on-the-water and Lower Slaughter. Enjoying the picturesque villages, the sunny weather and a couple of beers in the quaint pubs.
The last time I was here, I was a teenager, and nothing really much had changed. I remembered paddling in the stream runs through the village, with my dog at the time.
After exploring the village, we walked along the ‘Monarch Way’ to Lower Slaughter. I looked this route up, and it begins in Worcester and ends at Shoreham-by- Sea. Retracing the retreat of King Charles II after his defeat to Cromwell. 932km through Birmingham, Stratford, Bristol, Lyme Regis and more. One for a later date.
On the way back, I popped into the church of St. Lawrence and spotted a stained glass window; a sign for the week to come.
After some food we returned to our lodgings completing our penultimate day.
Day Seven
Persistent rain defined today, prompting us to do an indoors activity for our last day. We visited the stately home, Charlecote House.
Its origins date back to 1066 with the Norman conquest and the beginnings of the Lucy family. Over the years the stately home was built with the family making their wealth in agriculture for the textile trade. Although the Lucy family still reside here, the building is now owned by the National Trust.
It was rumoured that Shakespeare had poached on the estate.
The rain eased up allowing for us walk around the grounds spotting the deer grazing in the fields.
For the remainder of the afternoon and evening, we spent our time in Stratford. Sheltering from the rain before returning to the cottage, concluding the Warwickshire Adventure.
Still on a high from my Walsingham Camino, I found a book from the British Pilgrimage Trust about locations around the UK that were destinations for medieval pilgrimage – ‘Pilgrim Places’.
The book also details some routes to follow. The chapters are separated into the counties, giving the history behind the locations.
One route jumped out straightaway, ‘The Saint James Way’. Set up by the UK confraternity of St. James; the organisation for the Camino de Santiago. They run two Albergue’s in Spain – one at Rabanal on the Francés and at Miraz on the del Norte. You can even volunteer at them if you want to experience a different side to the Camino.
The route starts in Reading, at the ruined abbey which was associated with St. James. From there it winds South through Basingstoke, Winchester and arriving in Southampton. The departure point for medieval pilgrims to sail to A Coruña, and continue the Camino Inglés.
There are no ferry services these days from this port to Spain, you have to take a bus ride to Portsmouth to continue the sea journey.
If you haven’t guessed it yet. This pilgrimage is now locked into my sights. If you are a regular follower of my blog, you will know I spend a week in June with family in the Lake District.
Well, we’ve mixed it up this year and going to stay around Stratford-upon-Avon area. I’ve sneakily booked off the following week to do this pilgrimage.
Unlike my last two long distance walks, I won’t be alone this time. I will be accompanied by my mum. A warm up for something later in the year, and an opportunity to test some gear out.
Every bit of free time I’ve had since completing my latest adventure has been spent on editing all the footage into a video. Hopefully it is an improvement on my previous ones. I had a loose storyboard for this walk, with an idea of what filming I wanted to get.
Like each trip, it’s a learning curve; this one more so than usual. I tested out some new equipment, some I’d use again, others I won’t bother. I borrowed a digital camera for this one and took a deceptively heavy miniature tripod for it. These ended up more of a hassle to set up and use – I fell back on the convenience of my mobile phone.
I expanded on my drone getting a remote, with plans to take some sweeping recordings of the walk, and even planned how I wanted to capture the abbey ruins at Walsingham, as my parting footage for the video.
However, if you read my blog, you know the abbey ruins were closed on my arrival, and many of the days, the UK experienced strong winds due to a series of low-pressure systems from the Atlantic. Having lost one drone on the journey, I didn’t want to risk losing the replacement, and kept its use close to ground level.
It was also evident I need more practice with flying it!
If you have a spare 45min and nothing better to do, have a gander at the video. It’s now on Youtube.
Oh the Irony. I had it all planned out, how I was going to film the arrival. The shots and composition for the drone at the abbey. Only to find through March, the Abbey is only open at the weekends!
For the last day, I took a late start. I’d booked breakfast for 0930h to begin walking at 10. I popped into the supermarket for supplies beforehand so I was good to go.
The Sun was out, a cool breeze, I couldn’t ask for more for my final 10km of my pilgrimage. I took a very relaxed pace north out of town, joining a single track lane past an abandoned plant nursery.
After a quick stint on an ‘A’ road I was back on another quiet lane. Birdsong in the air and the Skylarks cheering me on for my last day.
I savoured the stillness and peace, something that has marked this journey. The road led me into East Barsham and then across fields into North Barsham. Where the last church I’ll visit before Walsingham, stands.
Before I Knew it, I was on the Holy Mile. The last bit into Walsingham. It’s tradition to cover this barefoot, but I felt it unwise to partake, on account of the trouble I’ve been having with my leg.
It follows a disused railway line, giving an elevated view of the countryside. I let my mind drift, thinking about this journey. It seemed months ago, since I left London Bridge, not 12 days – almost as if it was another time or world.
The route drops into Walsingham. Quaint terraced cottages lined the road into the centre of the village – frozen in time. It ends at the front door to the ‘Shrine of Our Lady of Walsingham’. A very modern building that is a stark contrast to its neighbours.
The moment I stepped into the church, the scent of incense wrapped around me, the air thick and hazy with its smoke. I had arrived in the middle of the midday service – clergy chanting in steady prayer. Candles flickered before the shrine. I paused, letting the sound and stillness settle around me.
A gentle, peaceful close to the journey, one that felt entirely in harmony with the spirit of the pilgrimage.
This 26km stage, I was dreading with how my right shin had been reacting yesterday. However it was pretty even with road and track walking.
The kinesiology tape was out and my right leg looked like a modern art piece by the time I had finished strapping it up.
From Castle Acre the route follows the ‘Nar Valley Way’ through quiet paths and lanes. Although the sun was out, it was cold – my dexterity in my hands were sluggish, making it a challenge to fill in the visitor book at St. Andrew’s at East Lexham.
An Anglo-Saxon church that had been restored with national lottery funds. Distinctive by its round tower. Wall paintings adorned the interior. I took 10mins to rest having covered 5km – my strategy to appease my leg.
I followed the road past Lexham Hall, its country estate on either side of me. All picturesque and grand – a nice part of the world. Eventually it comes out on the main road from King Lynn into Litcham.
A road I know well from weekends cycling out to ‘The Bull Inn’, having a pint then cycling back. Had it not been 0920h when I got into the village, I would have called in for a swift half for nostalgia.
After collecting the stamp and stocking up on supplies from the local shop, I followed the route north to Tittleshall pausing for a leg break at St. Mary’s.
From there it was across fields to Godwick. A site of a medieval village; all that remains is part of the tower to the church.
Then on to Whissonsett. As I joined the road into the village, a car came to a stop and the driver asked if I was walking the Camino. It was Tim Burton — not the film director, but one of the people involved in helping establish the Walsingham Camino routes. A completely unexpected meeting with someone connected to the pilgrimage while walking it myself.
Next stop was Colkirk and the temperature dropped prompting me to put on my fleece. It was also at this point my leg started to complain. I slowed my pace and thankfully it was only a short stint on the road and soon I was cutting across fields into Fakenham.
I eased myself into the town collecting the stamp at St. Peter and St. Paul’s Church, the end point for the penultimate day.
I’ve been so lucky with the weather thus far. Another glorious day to be walking a pilgrimage.
For breakfast, I had a very filling Scrambled egg on toast. Proper thick bread, lavished with peppered fluffy eggs. By 0820h I was energised to hit road.
I called into St. Michael’s for the stamp and followed a single track road out of the village. Which was the only problem for the day. It was majority on tarmac.
The route joined the ‘Peddars Way’, a 74 km trail that follows the line of an ancient Roman road built about 2,000 years ago – walking with history.
I slowly made my way into South Pickenham to the church only to find it closed – no stamp. I rejoined the Peddars Way towards North Pickenham, calling at the tiny church of St. Mary’s collecting the stamp. It is renowned for old murals, however it was closed today.
At North Pickenham I had a break at St. Andrew’s – disappointed it was closed. I rested in the sunlit porch watching the sleepy village.
Back on the Peddars way, there was a short section where it went dirt track. If my legs could hug the ground they would’ve. Through trees and hedgerows I made my way to the A47 outside of Swaffham.
A quick game of frogger, I was back on a single track road heading to Gt. Palgrave. Then it turns towards South and Castle Acre. At this point my right leg was very unhappy. The tarmac and camber of the road were causing a lot of pain.
I switched to walk with the traffic, dangerous, but it bought some relief. Where possible I stuck to the middle of the road where it was flattest. I aimed for every mud pile in the road for cushioning – ironic considering I was avoiding the mud earlier in my trip.
The last 3km was agony, the temptation to skip South Acre was strong, but my dogged trait to keep to the path, made me stick to the route. Although no stamp at the church, it was unique with an elaborate font and a tomb to Sir Edward Barkham. A Lord Mayor of London in 1621.
It was a painful 1.5km into Castle Acre finishing at St. James’s church, complete with scallop shell stamp. Glad to reach my BnB for the night and beating the rain.
My journey is now in the late stages. Only 36km left to Walsingham, it’s going far too quick.
Another glorious day in the sunshine, although it was even colder today. There was a layer of ice on the puddles when I first set off!
A slightly later start this morning as I popped into Aldi for supplies. The route crossed the railway into Norfolk. The final county on this pilgrimage and an area that I spent 5 years in.
I recognised the villages I passed through, nostalgia of the quiet lanes I once cycled down made me smile.
Following a farm track I came into Weeting, crossing through, past a farm and into Thetford forest. Pig farms were interspersed amongst the trees – they stared at me with ears up inquisitively.
The way delved deeper into the woods, birds sang from the branches and the golden light spilled between the trunks. Squirrels darted about through the bracken – I embraced the peace and solitude.
I took a break at Mundford, deciding to eat my packed lunch early, sunning myself on a bench in the church yard. However soon my inactivity caused me to feel the cold, prompting me to move on.
A bit of road walking followed into Ickburgh. The path criss-crosses the A1065, the main road from Swaffham to Brandon – a road I have driven down many times while living in Norfolk.
The iconic memorial to the ‘Desert Rats’, a tank division from WW2, marks their headquarters, and my next stage of the walk, over their training grounds.
The route led me to Hillborough, where a church in the middle of nowhere, clearly not regularly used on account of the cobwebs, mice and bird droppings in the nave, was the only church today with a stamp!
At this point my legs were complaining after a the last 5km being on tarmac, and I still had 5 more to go. The front muscle that runs along my right shin was letting me know about it. The camber of the road clearly causing it issues.
I hobbled in Gt. Cressingham and into the ‘Old Windmill Inn’. I plonked myself at the bar for a pint before checking in.
My room has a bath – I don’t often take baths, as with these old places it will use a lot of hot water, which is inconsiderate for other guests, but my muscles needed some indulgence – no regrets.
A short lazy day, ambling in the sunshine along the banks of the River Little Ouse – my legs thanked me for it.
The stage today was only 16km according to the guide, 3 hours max I reckoned. Check out wasn’t until 1100h, I stayed in bed to about 0800h. Did some supply shopping, got my stamp from St. Cuthbert’s then Lounged in my room until boredom got to me.
At 1030h I was back on the trail. It rejoined the St. Edmunds Way along the banks of the River Little Ouse. Muntjac deer grazed in the bracken to the side of the path, not too bothered by my presence.
The air was cold and fresh; the rain and wind had hammered the window all night. Although the sun was shining and only a breeze remained, it was feeling frigid.
The route twisted and turned hugging the banks of the river until I Reached the ‘The Brecks’, where it veered away into the forest.
The smell of pine filled the air and I leisurely trekked over soft forest paths to a tiny church, All Saints at Santon Downham. A small round tower, an oddity compared to the ones I had visited so far.
Then further along the road into the hamlet centre I rejoined the Little Ouse, to follow the banks in the lazy sunshine into Brandon.
Ducks glided across the waters where the sun reflected off the ripples. Robins and Blue Tits sang from the branches above – I drank in the peace.
To enter Brandon, I had to cross a bridge over a stream that flowed into the Little Ouse. Only problem was, it was closed as unsafe. Wooden boards up to my chest blocked the way. I had to follow the stream up river and luckily found a fallen tree over the waters.
I precariously crossed it using a branch from the forest floor as a walking stick – I made it without getting my feet wet!
Glad for the easy day, tomorrow it returns to normal; a decent 26km.
Stu's Camino 