Today has all been about angry stormy seas. I’ve had so much fun watching the water show from the crashing waves against the shores and rocky outcrops – I hardly noticed the drizzle!

I opted for breakfast at the albergue and was out the gates at 0740h. The route follows the main road before going over a level crossing and into the countryside. It was still dark at this point, and head torches were required.

The way follows the top of some cliffs with views of the sea crashing against rock formations off the coast. Even though it was a way off, the sound could still be heard.

Eventually you arrive at a beach at Celorio. The sky angry and the huge waves pounded the jagged rock faces with a low reverberating thud. They crashed over rocks sending spray into the air – it all looked very moody, but an absolute joy to watch.

You move inland to the bottom of a small estuary with a church overlooking the waters and the village of Niembru rising up behind. a small eucalyptus wooded section followed before dipping down past the ruins of the San Antolin de Bedón monastery – it would make a good albergue.

After here I was back at the coast and again treated to another spectacular water show. I spent far too long taking pictures and videos. Again the route goes inland past a couple of villages and into Nueva. I finally got to a bar that was open – I keep forgetting Mondays a lot of places are closed.

After my daily dose of tortilla, the drizzle had stopped and the Sun appeared. It remained dry for the rest of my walk. Over the next 10km there would be no villages until Ribadesella. It was easy enough, nice gravel paths with the occasional road.

I had whole route to myself; only birdsong, the crunching of my footsteps and the occasional cowbell were the only sounds I heard.

Tonight’s digs, is a youth hostel right on the beach, again I hadn’t booked ahead, but there is plenty of room. The number of pilgrims on the trail has dropped – accommodation isn’t a problem anymore, I’ve haven’t booked ahead since Boo de Piélagos.

Today I have reached a milestone. After 19 days I’ve covered 440km, which is halfway! To celebrate this I had been treated some great coastal views.

It was forecast to rain, but leaving the albergue this morning it was clear skies, and quite warm. A little bit of road walking ensued, but after 4km it went through woodland, under the flyover and down to the coast.

I took the coastal option to avoid the road. The path isn’t very well marked and I had to back track a few times. It also wasn’t easy, there was one point I crossed stone arch that had been carved out by the sea. Watery depths either side and the rock was razor sharp – A fall would either end in a splash or torn legs.

Thankfully it got better, walking along a soft gravel footpath through eucalyptus woods, fields of grazing cattle and peaceful meadows. Birdsong and the soft crunch underfoot added to the tranquility.

Once at Andrín it was the only significant uphill of the day, then road walking into Cue. I stopped for a cold drink then continued the last 2 km into Llanes.

Out of nowhere I heard a “hello”, it was Ronni from Isreal. I had caught him up! It is good to see familiar faces, hopefully I’ll be catching up with those I had been walking with until Santillana.

He had booked into the albergue I was aiming for. Shortly afterwards Jose who I was drinking with last night arrived. The albergue is another on the train station – Deba all over again!

I popped into town for some pinchos, then at 2000h grabbed a pilgrims menu at a bar, fuelling up for the big 30km day tomorrow.

After lording it up in a hotel overnight, it was back to the Camino, and what a pleasant day, no main roads!

It was a little chilly when I left at 0730h – I could see my breath. The quiet streets of the rustic village were something from a fairy tale.

My blister is looking a lot better and not giving me too much grief – I was soon knocking off the kilometres. My pace a lot slower as to not aggravate it.

The sun slowly appeared over the surrounding hills, giving some much needed warmth. I still had to put my jumper on in Oreña, after calling into a cafe for breakfast.

Then route continues along country roads and through little farm villages and eventually to the sea. Unfortunately the bar there was closed – it would have been a perfect spot for a drink.

After crossing a bridge and ascending up a hill, you get a view across a lush green plain with jagged grey mountains in the distance. Once taking a moment to admire the view, I pressed on into La Iglesia, calling into a bar for a ‘Kas Limon’ – also took the opportunity to air my foot.

The last stretch into Comillas was easy going, more rural villages and quiet roads, before long I arrived. It is market day in the town, and having lost my sunglasses at some point today, I went on the hunt for a new pair – none of the stalls or shops sold them!

I had a quick look around the beach then headed back into town for food. 22km today, nice short day to ease my toe back into walking, although tomorrow is a 28km section!

With the state of my toe it was prudent that I spend a rest day to allow it to heal and dry out. I booked a single room at a hotel near to the albergue.

This will allow me to dry out my rucksack and rest my feet. The town is very pretty and a bit of a tourist spot. Old cobblestone streets and quaint picturesque buildings, gives it a rustic vibe.

I had breakfast at small panadería that served an amazing croissant. Next was a trip to the farmacia to see if I can get hold of this gel for my blister, however in Spain I would need a prescription for it.

The tourist office opened at 1000h, after grabbing a stamp and finding the way to the supermarket, I stocked up on deodorant and soap. Next to it, was a bar, perfect place to hobble over to for a cold drink.

Then I took a stroll through the town, that now has come to life. If it wasn’t for my pilgrim walk, I would have been around it in 10min – it’s a small place.

As the bell from the church rang for 1200h, it signalled tortilla and beer time. Before long it was time to check into the hotel. A streak of sunlight from the Juliet balcony allowed me to dry my still wet rucksack and gear.

After a shower I lounged in the Sun on the terrace with a couple of beers, taking full advantage of a relaxing rest day on the Camino.

Hopefully tomorrow my blister will be dry enough to continue the Camino. I’ve bought some compeed on advice from the pharmacist, fingers crossed it will work.

You have good days on the Camino and occasionally you get a bad day, and that was today. The rain from yesterday carried on constantly.

The customary hill to start the day takes you to the main road that you follow until the river. The route then follows the banks and cuts through modern villages into Oruña where the Camino finally crosses the Ria de Mogro.

After a tortilla it was back into the rain. It was literally all by road with the occasional country lane. The dull weather matched the aesthetic of the this section.

Around 1300h I arrived into Barreda, completely fed up of the busy road and the weather – not to mention my toe was very tender.

By this point most of the distance had been covered, and visualising a dry albergue and warm shower, I pressed on foregoing lunch.

At Viveda, the route finally went into the countryside, fields of corn and small holdings became my backdrop. If it wasn’t for the rain and my sore toe, I would have been skipping into Santillana.

Instead I burst through the doors of the albergue as a big blue wet mass. I had spent the entire day in my poncho! Not a pleasant look nor smell!

Here the young Israeli couple I met in Markina, had checked in after spending a few days in Santander; they caught the train to Santillana and plan to walk some short stages. It was fantastic to see my friends again – Camino magic!

Once booked in I treated myself to the washing machine and dryer – clean smelling clothes!

My blister was as grim as the weather. A good clean and iodine bath ensued; a fellow pilgrim gave me some antibiotic gel to put on it. I think it will be all right.

The Camino is a great experience, and one that everyone should undertake, but there is cost that every peregrino must pay, and that is ‘Ampollas’.

It was a long day yesterday and before I knew it, it was 0800h – just made it to breakfast. Coincidently it was the same time as sunrise. The view from the albergue was something else.

From the long walk yesterday I had developed a large blister, one I should have dealt with before going to bed. But the with all the pilgrim activities and communal dinner, it was the morning before I addressed the problem.

According to the albergue volunteers it is 15km to the boat that takes you into Santander. I went the coastal route as recommended, and it didn’t disappoint. Stunning rock formations, sandy beaches and crashing waves.

The path drops down to the beach that you follow to the mouth of the estuary. I didn’t take off my trainers this time as I had bandaged my freshly treated blister.

I followed the line of pilgrims along the shoreline to the ferry point – this time from a jetty not the beach.

Familiar faces queued up for the boat to Santander. Henry from France who I had been crossing paths with since Irún was there. Despite I can’t speak French we managed to build a pilgrim bond, and haphazardly reading between my non existent French and his equally limited English, we established that Santander would be the point we would part ways. – we shook hands and said ¡Buen Camino!

Once the ferry dropped us off, we headed to the cathedral to buy a new credential, John’s and mine had now run out of space. I called into a farmacia for some supplies for the ampollas tax, then grabbed lunch.

The weather changed to heavy showers, forcing us to put on the ponchos. It was all road out of Santander, following a busy one until the suburb of Penacastillo.

The route goes more country road. My already sore toe started to get worse, as if I had something digging in between my 3rd and 4th. I had to assess the blister.

My iodine bandage I had applied this morning was saturated. I pulled it off revealing the damage, it had gone over the top of the toe – the upper layer of skin had been removed, over most of my fourth toe on my right foot.

I had applied a gel tube bandage I picked up from the farmacia, which felt a lot better, and pressed on. I knew I had to get the wound cleaned and disinfected asap, so I went full steam ahead – I still had 8-9km to go.

I raced past John and Elliot. The Route was pretty much road walking all the way, nothing exciting – the on and off showers were the only source of entertainment.

I got into the albergue and immediately put my foot under the tap to clean my open blister. I had a shower and went to the bar. Jenny was there and I met a new pilgrim from Canada called Chris. We all had the pilgrims meal, but I needed to have a few drinks as I still had to pay the ampollas tax.

I moved into the main bar where with my pigeon Spanish and the aid of google translate, I seeked advice from a couple of friendly locals that I got talking to. Despite the language barrier we had a laugh – mostly at my expense.

Then came the time to pay the ampollas dues, I had to sterilise my blister. I locked myself in the albergue bathroom, put my belt in my mouth and flooded my toe in iodine. – ampollas tax paid.

Hopefully it will dry out tomorrow and won’t give me too much grief. Having done a long stage today, we have eaten in to the 36km stage, meaning it is now only a 25km walk.

Gronze warned it would be a long one today, and it wasn’t wrong. Broke the 30km mark for the first time on this Camino.

A flat gentle stroll along the promenade for an hour to reach the ferry to Santoña. Hardly anyone about and the view across the bay in the morning Sun was a picture of tranquility.

The ferry picks you up from the beach with the first trip at 0900h and every 15mins afterwards, a quick trip across the small estuary and you are in Santoña. Looking back, the view was brilliant.

We had breakfast at a café then continued, passing the towering stone walls to a prison. A hill in front progressively got closer and at the foot, we had a decision to make. Take the official route or the road – official we went.

It was a narrow, rocky, winding path through shrubbery. Uneven and steep in places; Neill lost his footing and ended up like a turtle – thankfully no injuries.

All the hardship had payed off, as we rounded the hill, a huge sandy beach stretched out to Noja on the horizon. The path down to the beach behaved, and we were on the soft sand.

Here I met Elliot from Wales, on his first Camino and aiming form Santiago. I followed the line of pilgrims enjoying the sea air and golden beach.

Wanting to remain on the beach I had to navigate a small stream. I unlaced my trainers and paddled across. The cold water was heaven for my feet. So good I walked the rest of the way in the surf.

At Noja, I rinsed the sand of my feet and called into a bar for a tortilla. It was undulating country roads for the last 15km, with the heat, it was a bit of a slog. On the way I met more perregrinos, with Santiago in their sights. Sophie from Austria, two from Oregon USA.

The Albergue sits on a hill, a 20min walk from Güemes. A great Donitivo, a life’s passion for the owner. He has kept on building it up over decades with the help of volunteers.

He had led a life you wouldn’t believe. At the age of 12 he was a shepherd, then became a priest, was involved with worker’s rights campaigns, arrested and put into prison. When he got out, he bought a Land Rover, drove all around Europe and North Africa, then put it on a boat to South America and drove all around there. Then returned in the 80s to make the albergue, and at the age of 87 he is still working.

The difference the Sun makes to a day of walking cannot be understated. Blue skies all the way today!

It’s a small hill to tackle straight off the bat giving views back at Castro Urdiales and along the coastline ahead. Eventually it dropped to the coast, passing through a grove with goats weaving through the trunks.

Following the rugged shore high above, the sea to my right and mountains to my left, I was in heaven. Every 100 metres was a new view – I was in my element and happy.

The way joins the main coastal road unfortunately, but I was treated to a panoramic view of a sandy bay with surfers catching the waves.

The route splits at this point, the official way and the coastal way. I listened to my gut and went up the hill away from the shore – I wasn’t going to repeat yesterday’s experience. Despite having done 10km already, the sign said 22km to Laredo, and over 5hrs walk – challenge excepted.

Quiet country roads ensued, the traffic mostly cyclists, far better than the main road. When I got to Rioseco, I was ready for a cold drink. I pulled into a bar and there was Lina and Marcus, Camino magic!

The three of us walked out of the village to tackle the biggest of today’s hills, and my companion’s last; they are catching the bus at the next village to return to Bilbao. I took a goodbye selfie and I began the ascent.

Through the eucalyptus wood, it led me to a secluded hamlet and down to an equally remote valley with stunning views – the landscape has changed since entering the Cantabria region.

The route drops into the village Sopeña where I caught up with Jürgen. He was struggling with a pain in the front of his leg. Spotting a shaded bench in a park, we pulled over and I passed him some ibuprofen gel.

When I reached the next village, it was time for a cold beer. I stopped at the bar joining a table with Connie from Seattle. She is going to Santiago and started in Bayonne, the same day as me! Shortly after we were joined by Tim from Indiana, who too is going all the way.

The second hill of the day followed which lead back to the main road, that I had to follow for a while before the official route veers off. Again through tiny hamlets and quiet roads, I enjoyed the peace.

Before long I arrived into Laredo (5 hours 49 minutes in total – I beat that sign!) stopping at the Donitivo ‘Casa de la Trinidad’. A convent, but now an albergue, but still run by the nuns. I was warmly greeted and given a cool glass of lemon water, just what I needed for this scorching day.

Once chores were done, I headed out to a bar Neill had already scouted. Outside was Lina and Marcus, their connecting bus back to Bilbao would be picking them up there. Camino magic! – This time we said our final Camino goodbyes.

At 1800h I attended the pilgrims blessing, where the nuns sang angelic songs and individually blessed the peregrinos in attendance – a magical moment.

For dinner myself, Jürgen, Vanessa, Neill and John went to a nearby restaurant, where we discussed tomorrow’s plans. It’s a long one!