The New Year has been and gone, the frigid weather is on it’s way out, and I’m itching to get on another thru hike or pilgrimage. I had some leave to use up before I lose it at the end of the financial year. Looking at the rota I managed to add on two days to a three day weekend coming up at the end of March.
Having five days off, I didn’t want this to go to waste, and pondering what to do, the Camino was listening. An email dropped into my inbox. A couple of years ago I signed up to a charity, the “British Pilgrimage Trust”. An organisation that has an aim to restore and popularise the pilgrimages within the UK – You will be surprised how many there are!
If you followed my Two Saints Way pilgrimage, that was one of them. Well, this email advertised up and coming events and guided pilgrimages. On the day I had just booked off, they are holding a one day pilgrimage; the ‘Wolf and Water Pilgrimage’.
A short 8 mile trail from St. Mary’s Church in West Stow to Bury St. Edmunds Cathedral. St. Edmund’s legend involves Danes, beheadings and a speaking wolf! As this is a guided pilgrimage, I will be immersed in the history and folklore of the area – a little different to my usual adventures!
I’ve secured accommodation that is actually on the cathedral grounds, so I won’t have far to rest my legs after completing this walk! I’ll do a blog and produce a short video of this one day adventure.
It has been a manic couple of months since finishing the Camino del Norte and over the last week I have finally found time to put together a video of this amazing journey. In the past I have thrown together a few clips, slapped some music on and posted it to the interweb.
However this time, I’ve taken it up a notch, I’ve done a reflective narration for this epic journey that took me along the northern Spanish coast and meeting the most amazing people that made this pilgrimage special. (I know before you say it, I’ve butchered some of the pronunciations of the Spanish places!)
It’s a longer format than my usual videos at 1.5 hours, but I hope you will not be deterred and find it entertaining. I’ve tried to encapsulate my thoughts and experiences as well as briefly describing each day. If it gives you an insight to the journey or sways you to undertake a Camino, I’ll be over the moon!
This time 10 years ago I spent a week in Valkenburg and Brussels, enjoying the Glühwein at the Christmas markets for my mum’s 60th. Family and friends embarked on planes, trains and automobiles, to celebrate the milestone and the festive time of the year.
Here I am, a decade on returning to this magical town with the same crowd and more. Having experienced Leiden last year, the plan is Valkenburg and this picturesque town, 30 min from Amsterdam.
It was an early start catching the 0555h plane from Manchester to Schiphol, then a 3 hour train to Valkenburg. Half the group missed the connection on the home stretch at Maastricht, but I stayed behind to ensure everyone got to the destination.
After lunch at the station cafe and checking into the hotel, I went for an explore. I couldn’t remember this many restaurants last time I was here! I managed to find the bar we made our regular all those years ago – I had to stop for a drink.
The rest of the gang joined for food and a few drinks. By 10pm we were flagging having been up since 1am; time to call it a night.
Valkenburg’s Christmas market is within a cave system of a sandstone mine. At 11am we were through the doors. Stalls upon stalls filled every corner, trees and decorations transformed the place into a festive grotto.
There were sweet treats, waffles, Christmas decorations, festive jumpers and Gluhwein for sale. After a couple glasses and every tunnel explored we headed to a bar, before attending the outdoor market for food.
One more drink in the warmth of a nearby bar called the end of the day.
Back on the trains the following day to Leiden. Having briefly visited this city last year, I wanted to spend longer at this pretty town. It is like Amsterdam but without the tourists.
We arrived early afternoon meeting up with four new party members, who are joining us for the remainder of the trip. We grabbed some food, checked into our hotel then had a little explore and a couple of drinks.
The Christmas markets here don’t open until Saturday however a short train trip south to The Hague and there are plenty there.
After grabbing breakfast at a quaint little cafe by the canal side, ‘Roos’. We took the train to The Hague.
I expected the city to be all modern high rise office buildings, but I was wrong. Although at the train station there some, once you get to the centre, you are amongst the characterful Dutch buildings.
The markets are within the Voorhout Park, next to the Ridderzaal which is part of the Binnenhof complex, the political centre of country.
The cabins formed the perimeter and seating areas in the middle. Lots of food stalls – I spotted empanadas and churros; I had to partake to have a taste of Spain and the Camino!
The temperature was cold and after a couple of hours we sought some warmth of a bar. On the way we passed the royal palace, before ducking into a tiny jazz bar.
Once warmed up and a couple drinks down us we returned to Leiden for food and evening drinks.
Ridderzaal Royal Palace
After breakfast in Leiden we headed to Amsterdam. While the group did the boat tour, I took the opportunity to visit the NEMO science museum. It gave a time line of the history of science and the great discoveries.
Each floor had a specific topic from engineering to the human body – I particularly liked the astronomy floor. Everything was interactive, bringing out my inner child!
From there I joined the rest of the party at the Christmas markets situated near the Rijskmuseum. It is smaller than The Hague one, and very crowded. This day was definitely the coldest, and we soon moved on back to the train station.
We finished the last evening on this adventure in Leiden.
NEMO Science Museum I’ve been digitalised
With evening flights, it allowed us to spend the most of the day in Leiden, exploring the Christmas market and town.
The market was very small, along a pretty street outside the Hooglandse church, with mostly food stalls – I had another empanada! There was a carol service in the church and some craft stalls.
I had wanted to look inside the building the last time I was here, and over this visit. Huge ceilings with leaded windows and white stone pillars reached up to the top; quite impressive.
It started to rain at this point prompting us to dive into a bar for warmth and a drink, after which we made our way to catch the train to the airport.
A very eventful packed week, and a great time had by all.
Despite having a room to myself and the chance to stay in bed, I was still on the Camino clock and up at 7am.
I had a shower, a luxury to have first thing in the morning. It seems an age ago since I was able to start the day with one – it was bliss!
Once cleaned I went to the cathedral while it was quiet to have my customary visit to St. James’ tomb and tap his statue on the shoulder, before my usual walk around while it was quiet.
For Mary Harris and Peter Critchlow
Then it was time for breakfast, I picked one of my favourite deysayuno spots, ‘Airas Nunes’, to meet the gang. Comfy chairs, classical music, very civilised for scruffy pilgrims.
I then gave a short tour of the city to my friends, showing the highlights of the cathedral, the first pilgrim and the two Marias. John and Elliot went to the midday pilgrims mass, while Judyta and I waited in the Praza Obradoiro, for Samual and Judith to arrive.
Olivier joined us briefly before he had to catch his bus to Porto. Just before the heavens opened up, they arrived with another familiar face, Sophie from Austria; We had met in Guemes – The Camino has the habit of reuniting pilgrims.
Drinks were in order! John and Elliot joined us briefly after mass, before they had to catch a bus to the airport. Everyone else had to check in to their accommodation, so I took the chance to do a little souvenir shopping and have a drink, before joining everyone for the evening pilgrims mass.
Luck was with us again, the Botafumeiro swung! Three out four visits I have seen it in action! Our bellies were rumbling, prompting us to get food.
Over dinner, we chatted about our adventures on the pilgrimage, showing pictures of the highlights. A great end to another amazing journey.
As I would need an early bus, I said my goodbyes to my friends, I hope to see them again – you never know, the Camino works in mysterious ways.
It had to be the quickest 20km I had done, the last day was over in a blink of an eye. The best thing is, we beat the rain!
We had to be out of the albergue by 0800h, and due to some early risers, we were out the door by 0715h.
The route is initially through woodlands and my head torch went into low battery mode. But having done this section three times now, I was pretty much in autopilot.
We all decided to start this morning walking alone, it is always a difficult day getting into Santiago. At ‘Bar 15km’ we gathered for breakfast, then made our ascent up to the airport.
Walking through the familiar eucalyptus woods, past the runway and down into San Paio, calling into the bar for a drink – it wasn’t even 1000h, but it is Santiago day after all!
We moved on getting to the 10km marker, the first time I’ve seen it in day light. I’ve always started from Lavacolla on my last day.
The Hill that I remember was merely a mound for these Basque Country legs, and the long stretch to Monte do Gozo flew by. I made a point of going to the pilgrim statues that overlook the city – I had missed them on my previous Caminos.
The last 5km was littered with tourigrinos, getting in the way. The now familiar streets zoomed by, and the spires of the cathedral came into view. The bagpipes were playing as we passed under the arch into the square.
Even on my fourth visit, the cathedral still had me in awe. I shuck my travelling companions hands and gazed at the cathedral. Once getting our compostelas and a few celebratory drinks, we booked into our respective digs.
As is the Camino we bumped into old faces, and we arranged to have dinner together. Jenny from Colombia, Hugo from Mexico, Ricardo from Spain, Karina from the states, Elliot, John, Judyta and I.
Afterwords we went to a local bar for drinks and a game of pool. A great end to the day.
It really was a culture shock today after spending weeks seeing so few people and little places to stop. The way being full of peregrinos and cafes almost every 2km, feels like a different world.
Another very late start. We were the last out the albergue and we headed straight to a cafe for breakfast. 9 o’clock had been and gone before we set off.
Samual joined us for a short while, he is spending a rest day in Arzúa so friends of his will join him in the evening.
It was another cold start and no real hill to warm me up properly. But the sun was out and it slowly warmed up to be a glorious day – it felt like I’m on holiday.
After a couple of kilometres Samual said his farewells and the four of us continued on. We took it easy, walking as a group, stopping at a few cafes for empanadas and cold drinks – once midday arrived we were on the beers.
The way is so busy, many people walking and a fair share of tourigrinos. Large groups clogged the paths. It’s probably no more than previous years, but having spent the last 35 days in the solitude of the Norte, it really felt crowded.
Bottle bar
I now walked familiar paths, enjoying the warm sunshine and the easy pace. Before we knew it we arrived into O Pedrouzo. Feeling in a party mood we went for beers and had food at the Mexican restaurant that gave out wax stamps!
We made some new friends, Gavin from Dublin and Bestin from Australia. I also met Andy and Michelle again – great to see familiar faces among the scores of new pilgrims.
Tomorrow is Santiago. The last day on the Camino. The end of the adventure is upon me.
The Camino gave us a perfect day in all respects, for the last one on the Norte before it joined the hustle and bustle of the Frances.
It was the coldest start of the Camino so far – gloves cold! We all met for breakfast at a cafe just outside the monastery. The place was packed with pilgrims, the most I’ve seen in recent days.
As dawn arrived we set off. Mist clung to the fields that surround the Mosteiro de Santa Maria. I was keen to get warm, so I went full pace to reach the first hill of the day.
Once at the top I was fully warmed up. The route mostly consisted of country roads through the forested green rolling hills of Galicia. At 10km it was time for a break at Boimorto.
The Sun still hadn’t warmed everything up enough to take off my jumper, but it was a lot more comfortable. Continuing on we had the route to ourselves.
Just before Arzúa, the Camino gave us our last farewell to the Norte. Peaceful surrounds, cows grazing in the fields, the sun lazily shining through the trees and only birdsong and our footsteps could be heard. Our last bit of solace before we join the cacophony of the Camino Frances.
Once in town we sat at a bar for a few drinks, slightly in celebration mode. We played a game of ‘spot the tourigrino’ as the pilgrims made their way along the Camino Frances.
Later we all met up for food and drinks. We had to say goodbye to Christavel, who will be pulling a big day to Santiago tomorrow due to commitments, and Samual is spending a rest day in Arzúa to meet up with friends.
The end of the adventure is racing towards me now.
A wet morning in the hills, a cafe that had deliverance vibes and a night in a monastery, not to mention the highest point on the Norte done – quite an eventful day.
Just after 0800h I was out the door with the promise of breakfast in 2km. It was warm and dry at first but rain was on the way. I was hoping to get to the cafe before the deluge arrived, however it was closed.
The route goes over a rocky heath where I caught up with Judyta, just as the rain arrived. Ponchos on and umbrella up, but it wasn’t enough, my trainers were soon wet.
As misery enjoys company we walked together. It was mostly flat with the occasional incline. The terrain was kind with a good respite from road walking when needed.
We got 10km done and there had been nowhere to stop. We sheltered under a bus stop – the rain didn’t let up. We trudged on for another 6km to shelter under a dilapidated barn.
We checked Google maps to only find we were 50m from a cafe. Giggling at the absurdity, we made a dash for it. It’s basically a small farm with a seating area in the kitchen.
Chickens were running free, big German shepherds watched us, and a very strong smell of farmyard and wet dog hung in the air. We took a seat inside at the kitchen table. The owner cooked us up a fresh cheese omelette bocadillo – and I got an earl grey tea to warm up.
The rain had eased off. We continued on and with every step the sky brightened and eventually the Sun came out to play. The walking became easier, and without knowing we passed over the highest point on the Camino Norte. There was no sign indicating this, I only found out after looking at the map once we arrived at Meśon where we had another break.
5km on we arrived into Sobrado in high spirits. We passed a small lake on the way into town that caused us to pause for pictures.
Our albergue for the night is in a monastery, the monk originally from England, booked us in for the night. I took a look around the cloisters and the church with amazing stone masonry. Renovations have been taking place and has transformed the albergue into a modern establishment.
Andy and Michelle are staying here as well, I hadn’t expected to see them again, it was a nice bit of Camino magic.
For once there were a few restaurants open on a Monday and finding something to eat wasn’t a problem. Tomorrow we join the Camino Frances, on the run into Santiago. We will have to book ahead now as it gets busy – I had forgotten how busy the Frances is, it took me three attempts to find some beds!
The day was longer than intended with a mix of Sun and rain, road and forest paths. Fairly easy walk and mostly flat.
I joined Judyta for breakfast before starting the day – it had gone 0900h, certainly the latest start on this Camino. I realised I had left my water bottle in the albergue, after making a slight detour back I was on the road.
I walked with an Australian called Malcolm. He had been walking since Ribadeo and I was the first native English speaker he had met.
The kilometres flew by. The route had a mixture of country road and soft forest paths with a couple of bridge crossings.
After a quick break A Lamela, it began to rain. We joined Elliot and Samual over the next 5km or so into Baamonde – Samual and Malcolm are stopping here. Once the rest of the gang arrived we had dinner together.
We still had 14km to cover and it was 1420h when we had finished our food, thankfully the Sun was out now. From here you follow the main road for a couple of kilometres passing the 100km marker.
At the small San Alberte Church, nestled amongst the trees, the path ascends through a forest joining a winding country road through tiny hamlets.
Elliot and I pulled head having a similar pace. Having good company the kilometres dropped away. The original plan was to stop at Miraz, but at 1730h we were still walking, being late in the day, we stopped at A Logoa.
A great little albergue with pilgrims menu. The owner has to be the most friendly and accommodating of all the hospitalarios I’ve met in the Norte – very worth the stop.
The rain had been falling during the night and into the morning. Not wanting to spend the entire day in ponchos, we all decided to take a short day and head to Vilalba.
We took our time over breakfast in hope that the rain would stop – it didn’t. Ponchos on and into the drizzle we ventured. Straight on to a forest path, all dark and moody.
Samual and I edged ahead of the group and caught Judyta up. The three of us walked together for a while, chatting about our plans when we get to Santiago and beyond.
Not much scenery today as it was masked by the rain or in woodlands. But being with good company the wet kilometres flew by.
We arrived in Vilalba just after 1200h, hungry and drenched. We grabbed a drink in a cafe and a pincho de Tortilla y Potata – which really was a small portion, just more than a mouthful!
Once booked into the albergue, more familiar faces arrived Yorst and Ouni. After a quick trip to the supermarket for dinner, Elliot wanted to watch the football, so we made our way to a sports bar, then met up with few more of my Camino pals for food.
Stu's Camino 