Sometimes taking the longer route pays off, and it did today. Out of my walking pals, only two of us took the complimentary alternative way – 5 km more!
It was dry to start with, with a great sunrise as I made my way up the valley. Some of the best views since entering Galicia.
The way is on a very little used road, gently ascending along one side of the valley. Ahead the cloud level was getting closer and at the point it leaves the road on to a soft gravel path, the ascent quickly increases.
After passing what looks like a kiln, now over grown with vegetation, the path zigzags up to the head of the valley; into cloud.
The temperature dropped, prompting me to put my jumper on, but not wet enough for the poncho. A slow decline through farmland took me into Gontán. At the cafe, Samual and Karel were already there, and shortly after we were joined by the rest of the gang.
It was here I found they had taken the short cut, and followed the main route. Swapping stories, they had spent most of the walk in the cloud – they were looking a bit damp.
With 5km to go, we called into a Spar for snacks and made our way to the albergue. I walked the last bit with Samual, another Camino veteran.
The albergue has rustic vibe with communal meal. Very chilled out evening with good company, familiar faces and new.
Considering this was meant to be a hard day, it really wasn’t despite it being 30km. Perfect weather conditions and fantastic scenery made it a pleasant day.
Breakfast was at 0800h, so it was a very late start, especially for a 30km day. It had rained during the night to refresh the air and the skies were clear when I began the day.
The route slowly ascends giving better views of the Galician region with every step. Tree covered mountains and green fields filled the valleys. Until ‘A Ponte de Arante’ I walked with Judyta, who is celebrating her birthday today – great way to spend it on a Camino!
The little chapel to the Virgin Mary at the hamlet had centuries old drawings on the walls that have been exposed by removing the plaster. Some were a bit odd, there was a skeleton archer?!
Elliot had caught us up and from here it was the biggest ascent of the day, which again was a walk in the park. Elliot and I pulled head with a good pace.
The mixture of country roads and soft gravel forest paths continued, around 10km in, we were getting hungry, but all the bars were shut or the kitchen was closed. After a quick drink at San Xusto we continued onto Lourenzá, a small town that should have amenities – but their kitchens were closed!
With 7km to go I pulled on ahead wanting to get to Mondoñedo asap. It was a pleasant walk through the Galician countryside in glorious sunshine but without the heat.
I arrived into town to find there is a horse fair, one of the oldest in Spain. Outside the cathedral a procession of horses herded into to the square. A huge crowd had gathered to see the show, and the riders were interviewed.
Before the crowd the dispersed I joined my fellow peregrinos for a meal. Samual, John, Elliot, Judyta and Karel from the Czech Republic – he was in the albergue last night.
With full bellies we returned to the albergue. Tomorrow we’re doing a stage and a bit to stop an albergue that is highly recommended – but there is a bit of a hill to conquer first.
If it wasn’t for the moody weather, it would have been a third day of uninspiring scenery. The clouds gave the landscape a certain gravitas.
Another short day thus another late start. There was a light drizzle when I set off that occasionally turned into fleeting showers. The route follows the beach out of town then through farmland.
There was a certain bleakness to the landscape enhanced by the passing rain clouds clinging to the hills. The poncho was on and off, but ahead of me were sunny skies above Ribadeo.
I eventually came the bridge spanning the estuary between Asturias and Galicia. With only a metal wired wall separating the footpath from the highway, I made the crossing.
Galicia the last region of the journey has now been reached. With one last look back at Asturias and the sea, I entered Ribadeo.
The route now turns inland towards Santiago, leaving the coast. Already the landscape has changed, as the Galician hills await. It may sound weird, but I instantly felt lighter entering this region, almost like home.
I stopped for a bite to eat at a cafe; John and Judyta shortly joined and we continued the last 6km, steadily up hill into the forested Galician countryside.
The rain returned with showers, but we didn’t get too wet. Vilela, is a small collection of houses with the albergue being the local bar and restaurant – it even has a swimming pool, although it’s a little too cold for me.
The same gang from last night are here, with a few new faces in the dormitory. Tomorrow is a 30km with a large-ish hill off the bat.
Today had been a low energy day with lacklustre views. The consolation was that it was overcast, keeping me from baking in the Sun.
It was a very late start by Camino standards this morning, it was closer to 0900h and sunrise had been and gone. I walked with Judyta, as route ascends out of town.
The scenery was much the same as yesterday, country roads surrounded by cornfields and large agricultural businesses blotted the landscape – it also followed the main road.
The lack of scenery and noise from the road prompted me to search for my earphones, however I seemed to have misplaced them.
We stopped for a drink at a roadside bar then continued on into La Caridad. I wanted a tortilla y potata however, Judyta wasn’t hungry and carried on.
I grabbed the sello from the church; one of the few I’ve seen on this route that has been open and has a stamp!
The scenery didn’t change until finally reaching Tapia, a small coastal town. The Albergue is almost on the beach however check in is 1530h. With an hour and a half to kill, I went to the harbour for a drink at a bar.
Later I met up for dinner with Elliot, Samuel, Judyta and John. We’re all in the same albergue and heading to the same destination tomorrow.
Mostly a straight forward day past cornfields, the only difficulty was the heat, and very little shade.
I left just before sunrise and caught a great view of a tiny hamlet nestled in a valley, the sky a pastel blue and light pink clouds.
A short section through woodland followed, then it was country road walking. Corn rows towered above me. After 10km I reached Luarca.
A pretty port town that leads from the cliff tops to the estuary. Here two pilgrims I had met in San Martin had just finished breakfast, so I joined them into the town. However I had to get some supplies.
It was a steep ascent up the other side then back into the countryside. The Sun was fully out now and my surrounds being open farmland, there was no shade – not even from a brief climb through an eucalyptus wood,
I continued on, stopping briefly for a drink at Villapedre, and by 1530h I was at my destination. A quick shower and I went in search of a bar. In town I met Judyta who I shared the communal meal with way back in Santillana.
I had a couple of drinks with her before finding something to eat. The next stage is a short 20km on advice from the hospitario. The stage after Ribadeo is meant to be difficult – the Galician mountains are coming!
It has been a fun day on the route with many streams to cross, creating a challenge to not get your feet wet.
Just before 0800h I was making my way through a small woodland with my head torch on, as the sun was rising. A bit of road walking into Albuerne then the fun began.
The way follows the undulations of the coast, dropping down through woodlands on muddy footpaths to the bottom, where a stream would be running to the sea.
Crossing became a fun puzzle, to get to the other bank without plunging your boot into the water. Then it is a steep ascent up the other side where you walk through a hamlet, then repeat the process – 5 more times!
Each crossing had a different solution. Some rock hoping, balancing on fallen trees or a run and jump! I managed to keep my feet dry.
Most places are still closed due to the national holiday, I managed to get a drink in Santa Marina, but all the other places were closed until Cadavedo.
I was wanting some food, but the kitchens were closed, and drinks only being served. I slowly made my way to Querúas as Gronze states a restaurant is there. However I discovered it has closed down. The albergue doesn’t open until 1530h; all I could do is cool off in the shade for an hour.
The set menu is on the cards in the albergue. It is probably the most modern one I have stopped in on the Norte so far.
Today swapped the industrial hellscape for eucalyptus forests. Clean air and cool shade.
There was talk around the dinner table last night that it was going to be a very hilly stage, but they weren’t that bad for a Basque Country battle hardened pilgrim.
After leaving San Martin, it was up into woodlands around Asturias airport. It was easy going until it passes forestry work. The vehicles had churned up the path causing deep ruts filled with mud. It took some careful route planning to navigate these obstacles.
I had to go to the left, not along the furrow
After successfully traversing the mud bath relatively cleanly, I entered Soto del Barco where I stopped for second breakfast at the Parador (I don’t think it was the official chain).
From there it was down to the estuary, over a bridge with no room to walk between the crash barrier and railings, then up into Muros de Nalón, which is the stage end. – but a 17km day is too short for me.
Back into woodland took me up to El Pito and some little villages. I passed a few peregrinos, but I didn’t recognise any of them.
After dropping down to sea level, it was time to tackle the biggest ascent of the day, a mere 150m – nothing, although the sun was out in full force.
After tackling another forestry work puzzle I arrived into Soto de Luina, grabbing a bed at the municipal albergue, then relaxed at a bar. There is a Spanish holiday this weekend, so I’ve been told, so most places are closed.
Waiting at then only bar open, familiar faces arrived, Elliot, Yorst and Connie. I have caught up with those I had been walking with from the start!
I would say today has been the worst regarding the scenery and quite tough, with a 20km stint without a place to stop.
It was about 0740h when I left the hostel, following the streets out of Gijón in the dark. It leaves old town past the quay, then through high rise residential buildings for almost 5km.
The city gives way to an industrial town, with steelworks and coal yards covering the landscape. Plumes of smoke rose from chimneys and lorry clattered past.
A constant clanging and general noise you’d expect filled the air and everywhere had a layer of soot.
The route rises up Mount Areo, but the view doesn’t get better, thankfully it enters woodland, but the sound is still with you for the next 8km.
The route descends into a vast green valley, that it cuts through until you join the main road into Aviles. I met Marcus from Germany, who stayed in the hostel last night. We were literally walking on the road side, with lorry’s thundering past. More metalworks lined the way.
After walking for 20km we got our first stop for tortilla y potata. A roadside cafe that is used to catering for drivers and workers, the portion of the tortilla was huge! Way too much for me to finish.
It was more road walking into the last 2km into Aviles where it follows the river and through a park. Marcus had reserved a bed in the town, so we departed ways. I still had another 6km to go.
Out of the town the countryside returned, the industrial hellscape came to an end and the Camino returned. I arrived at the donativo albergue, perched on top of a hill with far better views.
Really short day, ideally I wanted to bypass Gijón, but the next albergue after is 25km on and I didn’t fancy a 39km day.
Joan and I got dropped off back in Peón, and began our ascent of the only hill of the day. A dwarf compared to the one entering the village.
It was mostly tarmac apart from small woodland footpath section to the top. As we gained elevation we could see the whole valley that was obscured yesterday by the wall of rain. A vast plain of green farmland with clusters of white houses.
At the top Gijón and the coastline stretched out before us. Not quite as big as Bilbao, but still some size. It was a gentle descent into the city, passing through the residential suburbs, to the river, which we followed. It went past the football stadium and to the sandy bay the city overlooks.
High rise apartment buildings to the left and the beach to the right with the ever present surfers catching the waves.
The route follows the promenade where Patrick from Belgium was going for a stroll. He is returning home tomorrow, cutting short his Camino.
Further along we bumped into Connie from Seattle, just setting off on her day – I’m catching up with the pilgrims I know!
After some food at a bar and the stamp from the tourist office, we headed to Decathlon in search of a new poncho, trousers and sunglasses – I got one of the three.
In the evening I tried the cider, which the region is famous for. It is poured from a height to oxygenate it, you are meant to drink it in small portions, to get the full benefit of the taste. It comes in a 70cl bottle, which I didn’t expect – I’m going to sleep tonight!
I had a quiet evening as I want to pull a slightly longer day tomorrow, to stop at a donativo that is recommended in San Martín de Laspra. Roughly 33km from Gijón. The profile looks good for the next stage, so it is doable!
Today wasn’t in the script and has been unlike any other on my Camino travels, but it led me to a hidden gem and a lovely albergue.
The wind was rattling the shutters and whistling through the trees outside – it sounded like it was going to be a cold start to the day. However it was warmer outside than in, and the wind was even warmer.
I left with Judith and we slipped-slided our way down a forestry path out of Priesca to Sebrayo, then followed the road that crisscrossed the highway into Villaviciosa. The rain had held off until we arrived.
Not a very attractive town with its industrial past evident. It was 9km by this point – time for a tortilla y potata. The rain was due to finish at 1100h; Judith is heading to the Primitivo so our paths part here. She was going to wait out the downpour as she had 10km left – I still had 22.
I donned my poncho and hit the wet streets, grabbing a stamp from the tourist office. The rain wasn’t too bad, nothing compared to Day 15. Sure enough, after about an hour it stopped just at the foot of the first big hill of the day.
It was a toughie. Wet forest paths with loose rocks, up a devilishly steep incline. The easy stages from Bilbao have most certainly come to an end.
The forest path gives way to a single track tarmac road and the rain returned in short showers – and stopped once I got to the top! Menacing clouds were prowling the hilltops, and as I followed the road down with Peón in the distance, around a bend, there was a wall of water driving in sideways up the valley.
Trees verging on horizontal and then it crashed into me. It was like I just jumped into the sea, all I needed was one of those surfboards I’ve been seeing over the last week.
My umbrella inverted, my trainers were instantly soaked and I managed to catch my hat! I darted under the shelter of three chestnut trees at the side of the road. Waves of water were being blown up the road – a reverse water slide! The spiky chestnuts were falling and bouncing off me.
It wasn’t stopping. I had to press on into Peón where there is a bar I can get some respite. I swam down the hill to the bottom of the valley to fined Casa Pepito closed – there goes my drink stop.
I found shelter in the ruined barn nearby to assess my options. Deva is 6km away and I have another big hill to tackle. There is an albergue in Capión which is 3km away but not on the Camino.
Not wanting to risk blisters, I called the albergue. They offered to pick me up and drop me back off in the morning – sold! 20 minutes later I was picked up in a green people carrier, then after a short drive, I’m drying off in front of an open fire in the bar area to the albergue.
A lovely little place, that looks like it was once the family home and now converted into an albergue. Very friendly, accommodating owners and pilgrims meal, that I shared with Joan from Taiwan.
Stu's Camino 