Morag’s Lodge, Fort Augustus

Today was only a short 7.5 miles and our bed for the night at the ‘Glenmoriston Arms Hotel’ has a check in time of 1500hrs. As this was to be a short day we left as late as possible.

It was a little frustrating as we had gotten into the routine of packing up then hitting the trail. We seemed out of sorts having to wait around; the urge to get on and walk was calling.

Our nemesis, the Scottish rain hadn’t let up at all during the night; we didn’t relish the thought of spending the day in it. At 1030hrs we had our customary incline to start our day.

The path led us through the pine forest that follows Loch Ness which unfortunately obscured any views. There was an option to take the high road, however the relentless rain meant any photo opportunities would be ruined. It wouldn’t be worth the effort of the further ascent.

Woodland Path

However with all the deluge, we were treated to more waterfalls.

We were in no rush to arrive today, but it was over very quickly. As we walked into Invermoriston, we crossed a bridge overlooking the river that was in full force. Some great photos were had.

We had two hours to kill, so we had something to eat at a cafe in the village, then had a look around. We found a short walk along the river. Where we found a seat with a plaque dedicated to an American woman who had fallen in and lost her life.

As I was reading this, there was a definate drop in the ambient temperature, even my dad noticed! We reasoned this to be an air current pulled by the fast flowing river just below….We hope…It’s definately not haunted…there are no such things!

Swiftly moving on, we milled about the area getting more photographs until 1500, so we could check in to our hotel and have a shower.

The bridge in the above picture was built by Thomas Telford at the time of the construction of the Caledonian Canal. This fell in to disrepair where at one stage you had to step over gaping holes with the river below.

On the other side of this bridge there are holiday lodges. One year an very drunk Irish man stumbled out of our hotel and fell through a hole on his way back to his lodge. He managed to drag himself from Loch Ness back to his lodgings with broken ankles, broken ribs and a cracked skull. Luckily he survived.

A local land owner restored the bridge at his own expense.

Tomorrow is as 14 miler, warming us up to the final day which is 19 miles. The weather forecast for tomorrow is overcast and sunny spells the day after. Fingers crossed, our last two days will be rain free.

Fort Augustus

Great Glen Hostel

The rain had been on and off thoughout the night; we left while there was a break in it while the sun was shining. We managed about 300m before a shower hit us; on with the waterpoofs. We just can’t seem to shake our nemesis.

The path followed the canal for a short while before it veered off up into the pine forrest that lines Loch Oich. It joined a disused railway that has been converted into the cycle path/the GGW.

Invergarry Station Project

For the next 5 miles we couldn’t ask for better terrain. Although the ground was hard it had been pathed with a fine gravel. This cushioned our footsteps allowing us to speedly cover the distance. At one point we walked a mile in 16 mins!

Invergarry Castle

There wasn’t much views with the forest and the rain showers. However we caught a glimpse of the ruins of Invergarry Castle on the other side of the Loch in a brief break in the weather.

Railway Bridge
Railway Bridge

At the 5 mile mark we reached the top end of Loch Oich where after three days we finally got the views we were after.

As we approached Kytra Lock there was a heavy downpour. Under a tree sheltering, were a couple in red ponchos. We stopped to chat and bonded over our shared choice in backpacks. Turns out they are from Melbourne and walking from John O’Groats to Lands end having been stranded in Europe due to Covid.

Kytra Locks

They were meant to be walking the Camino de Santiago in May, but like my plans, theirs had gone awry. The chap is also is a Youtuber, his channel is ‘Steve’s Kitchen’. He did a little recording, so we may appear at some point in a video.

They were also planning on doing the WHW, so we gave them some advice on the perils of Loch Lomand from Beinglas to Inversnaid. We said our goodbyes and continued on to Fort Augustus.

As we approached Fort Augustus the sun came back out. By this time we needed something to eat so we called in the local shop for a sandwich before having a couple of pints in the pub; our hostel opens at 1600hrs, so we had time to kill.

Fort Augustus Locks

We called into the Lock Inn where dad ended up like a bull in a china shop. The glass screen in the above picture almost came crashing down as he knocked it over with his backpack.

Luckily I have reactions like a cat and caught it. This isn’t the first time either, back at the Great Glen Hostel he knocked over and broke a radio with his pack! He wouldn’t make a good ninja turtle.

We queued up at the hostel to book in. In front of us were two walkers we met at Kings House. They had finished the WHW and are now traveling by car along the GGW. What are the odds we would meet at this hostel? It’s a small world.



The rain started around 1700hrs yesterday and relentlessly fell until around 1300hrs, where we had sunny spells and showers for the remainder of the day. I managed to get in touch with the hostel at Laggan, so a dry bed for tonight.

Throughout the night the wind and rain battered the tent ensuring we had little sleep. We packed our very soggy tent away and with luck this will be the last time for the trip.

The Scottish weather has again spoilt our photographic opportunities. The start of today’s stage follows the road up a hill (our usual starting incline) out of Gairlochy and winds it way through pine trees before dropping back down alongside the Loch.


As we finally got an unobstructed view of Loch Lochy, a party of canoeists paddled by; equally drenched. We waved from the bank before continuing our journey.

D-Day Training
Landing Craft

We eventually rejoined the road and passed a surviving training landing craft that was used to prepare the soldiers for the D-Day landings.

The military used this area extensively for this prepartion. Training the pilots for the boats and such vessels. There were numerous plaques dedicated to this along this stretch.

The route eventually turned off the road and onto a cycle path that passed through a large pine forest; this followed the rest of the length of the loch. We passed a few cyclists doing the GGW and only met two fellow walkers however they were going in the opposite direction.

Rain Still Reducing Visibilty
Pine Forest

Around the 8 mile point the sun made a brief visit and the deluge subsided; finally we could see some of the views.

Rare Break in the Weather

Spending the last 3/4 of the today in rain, had taken its toll and the wetness breached my boots. I felt a hot spot forming on a toe to my right foot. This meant stopping to apply the kinesiology tape, thus hopefully preventing a blister developing.

Foot Care

Soon we were back into the pine forest and came across a wild camping spot complete with composting toilets. It was a nice spot on the shore of the Loch, but this was too short for the day plus we need a resupply of food stocks.

Composting Toilets

We reached our stage end at Laggan, but there was a further mile to walk to the hostel. Our feet were sore by this point as the path mostly consisted of road or similar surfaces today. The continual impact on the hard terrain isn’t kind on our bodies.

Laggan Stage End
Laggan Lock

We booked into the hostel, had a shower and put our clothes in the drying room. We set out following google maps to where a pub should be located, however there was no watering hole in sight. We passed a barge that is a floating pub on the way to the hostel.

I saw this on the map the day before and the opening hours were 1700hrs to 2300hrs. We tried our luck there to no avail. We returned to the hostel with our bellies rumbling; we will have to raid the tuck shop on site.


So Begins Part 2

We took full advantage of our rest day in Fort William. All our gear has been washed and I replaced my waterproof trousers.

We did a tour of all the watering holes along the high street watching the hikers cross the finish line; many with the WHW strut. We bumped into a few walkers that we had met along our journey and bid them a safe trip home.

Cuil na Sithe BnB

As we left the BnB to begin the Great Glen Way, our old friend the rain decided to show; thankfully after about 10mins it stopped and didn’t return until we set up camp for the day.

The first order of business was to get the key to the facilities along the Caledonin Canal from the office at Corpach. Once done we set off along the Canal.


It wasn’t long until we reached Neptune’s Staircase; a series of 7 locks. Just as we arrived a steam train pulled out of the Banavie Station.

Boat at the Bottom Lock
Top Lock

The towpath was wide, flat and no loose stones to cause any touble; the miles flew by. We reached Moy bridge, the only surviving swing bridge from when the canal was built and is hand operated.

Moy Bridge
Moy Bridge

Before we knew it, we arrived at Gairlochy; here the canal joins Loch Lochy. About a mile on the road from the Gairlochy Locks we tried to get a pitch at the nearby campsite, but due to Covid they wouldn’t allow tents.

We trudged our way back to the locks to a wild camping spot right on the canal bank. We got the tent all set up just in time for the rain.

Waterside Property
Wild Camping

Today was very easy going and we felt like we could have kept walking, but the next stop is 12 miles away at the other end of Loch Lochy.

We are in a bit of a quandary where to stop tomorrow night. Loggan is the next stage end which has facilities, however there is no camping; I have been unable to contact the hostel there to see if they have vacancies.

Invergarry, 4 miles further on, has camping but without facilities. There is a lot more civilsation at Invergarry so we will be able to get a beer at least. Unfortunately there are no free rooms going and again I can’t contact the hostel there!

We might just have to chance our luck for a bed at the hostels, if not, it’s proper wild camping! We have everything sorted from day 3 onwards, just these first two days that are being awkward.

Fort William


Thankfully the rain had stopped during the night allowing us to take down the tent which was relatively dry by Scottish weather standards.

The path took us through the village where it climbed through the woodlands surrounding Kinlochleven. Dad found it a bit tiring but we couldn’t stop long to catch our breaths as the air piranhas soon got our sent.

Eventually we got above the tree line and looking back we waved bye to Kinlochleven. The path continued to rise until around 300m where it followed a valley.

There were more people on the walk today, some familiar faces who had set off at the same time as us. As there is nothing between Kinlochleven and Fort William. It is inevitable we would meet here, some I was surprised to see who went ahead off us after day 3.

We came across a group of gentlemen who were walking the WHW for motor neurone disease and they were wearing their t-shirts for it; I wish Prostate Cancer UK had pulled their finger out and got ours delivered.

We pressed on and came across one of the iconic images for the WHW. The ruined farmhouse that sits alone in the valley. I decided to take a photo from a different angle.

Ruined Farmhouse
Looking Back at the Farmhouse

The path continued following the valley for a few more miles as it bends round Meall a Chaorainn passing Lochan Lunn Da-Bhra.

Lochan Lunn Da-Bhra

We had been walking for 7 miles now, roughly halfway for today. It was time for lunch; we found a small mound to sit behind out of the wind to eat.


From here the path took us through a managed forest, where they have cut down a large number of trees; it was like walking through a tree graveyard. There was a plaque commemorating it in honour of the fallen in WW1. It seemed odd to me or maybe fitting, the jury is still out on this one.

Tree Graveyard

Eventually we got to where the new saplings had been planted and the familiar pine forests soon covered the landscape.

New Saplings on the Hill to Left of Centre

It wasn’t long before we caught sight of Ben Nevis although it had the peak in the clouds. We walked in it’s shadow for a few miles before the start of the descent into Fort William.

Nevis in the Clouds Above Dad

With 4 miles to go we finally saw the outskirts of Fort William. It was at this point the rain started, luckily it was nothing like yesterday. Two mountain bikers cheered us on as they hurtled passed us.

Civilization at Last
Then the Rain Came in

The route takes you to the road for the last 2 miles into town. This was heavy going on our feet walking on the pavement. At 15th bleep from my Garmin watch to indicate 15 miles we arrived at the old finish point to the WHW.

Pleased as Punch
Almost Done

However the true finish line is at the sore feet statue in town; a little further to go. We walked down the high street attracting a few looks from the townfolk, probably thinking ‘what fools these pair of drown rats are’, but we felt like heroes as we did the West Highland Strut to the finish line.

West Highland Way Done

We are now going to take a rest day and will pick up the blog again once we start the Great Glen Way.

Thank you to all the amazing people who have sponsored us. The total we have raised so far is £1,295! We definitely feel like we earnt it!


Wet Start

We were blessed yesterday with the weather, however we are paying for it today. It has been by far the worst conditions on the trip to this point.

We had breakfast in the lounge bar, where the night before we watched the deer through the windows. Once eaten we collected our packed lunches from reception then returned to our bunk. We put back on our waterproofs and set out into the rain.

There was a strong head wind and it was driving the rain into our faces. We had our heads down to shelter ourselves which caused us to almost miss a turning in the path.

We looked back to get our last glimpse of the Kings House before it disappeared into the rain. It really felt as if we were walking through a stormcloud.

Kings House Being Enveloped in the Clouds
No Break in the Rain

The path picked back up to the old military road and remained fairly flat for 3 miles before it started the incline to the foot of the Devil’s Staircase. The rain hadn’t let up one bit. Soon we caught sight of it.

Devil’s Staircase

Dad had been a little apprehensive about this stage, but now having seen it up close, the zig zag section on the ascent of Skiddaw is worse. We took our time climbing and making a few stops.

It didn’t take us long to get to the top. It certainly got our hearts pumping but to be honest, I don’t know what all the fuss is about; the horizontal rain presented the greater challenge; it seems over hyped. It is a shame the views were obscured by the weather. I reckon it would be spectacular looking back down the valley on a clear day.

Dad found it hard due to conditions underfoot and his feet being sore having had to negotiate the cobble like old military road leading up to the staircase.

Dad and the Devil Staircase

From here it was four miles to Kinlochleven, if it wasn’t for the driving rain, it would have been a nice walk.

We didn’t take many photographs on this section as it was far too wet, with the rain hampering the touch screens on our phones. The path descended into a gully across as small wooden bridge, where we managed to get some respite from the elements to have a snack.

Brief Respite

We were soon back into the Scottish jet wash until the last two miles were it let up slightly. We passed a hydroelectric plant on the way in. Huge pipes carrying the water, stretched the length of the valley into the town.

Wet Wet Wet
Plenty of Waterfalls on the Way into Kinlochleven
Anyone Know a Plumber?

Some of the pipes had a leak at the joints. The pipes eventually went into a victorian looking industrial building where opposite is our campsite for the night.

Our Tent on the End

After setting up the tent we had our packed lunches and assessed how wet our clothing is. My waterproof trousers didn’t cut it, around the tops of my legs are wet, my top was wet, but that is likely through perspiration with a jacket that doesn’t breath. (I know, not a nice image or smell) My boots also feel a little damp so either the Scottish jet wash beat the gortex or it got in via my gaiters.

Dad was feeling smug as his old army jacket held up. The only place the rain got in was around the pockets to his Regatta waterproof trousers.

However the campsite has a drying room! We got changed and went into the village to find a pub. There is hardly anyone about and only one pub out of the three is open! It has a deserted vibe to the village; it feels odd.

It had to be the one furthest away aswell, but without our packs we felt like we were floating to the pub. We settled on table next to the balcony with views of the Loch Leven. Dad now content with a pint of Guinness.


Today has been a very short distance of 8 miles, only hampered by the weather. Tomorrow is the last 15 miles into Fort William. The forecast doesn’t look any better.

Despite all the hell of day three, the weather not playing ball and the injuries we picked up on the way. It sad that tomorrow is our last day on the WHW, we have enjoyed the challenge so far.

Kings House

Bridge of Orchy

I was feeling much improved from the day before but still had an Imodium to be safe. We left the hotel in glorious sunshine which stayed with us throughout the day; we actually had to put the sunscreen on!

We crossed the bridge and began our ascent up Mam Carraigh. At the top we were greeted with amazing views of Loch Tulla. Now the rain has gone we are finally getting the scenery we were after.

Loch Tulla
Midge Bait

There has hardly been any wind today, not even a breeze. This meant we couldn’t stand still for too long as the Air Piranhas swarmed us. We were finally chased off from our view point and the path descended to the valley floor. We got a few more photos of the Loch.

Loch Tulla

We reached the road outside the Inveroran Hotel which the WHW follows for 1Km. At the end we joined the old military road that leads to the Kings House Hotel; our a room for the night.

Bridge at Inveroran Hotel
View from the Bottom of the Valley
Start of the Old Military Road

The Military road had been used in the trade of cattle, but had fallen into disrepair. In 1803 the goverment began resurfacing it for the transportation of the cattle and was used up until to the 1930s.

The footing was uneven with small rocks almost resembling cobbles. It was a little tricky at times but compared to what we have experienced over the last few days, it was nothing we couldn’t handle.

When the road was rebuilt they ensured the incline was be gradual, which meant we could cover the ascent quickly. The higher we got the greater the views. For about a mile we followed a tree line, but once we broke free we had most stunning scenery.

Wide Open Spaces

Exactly at 6 miles (halfway point for the day) we came to a bridge. It was a good enough spot to have our dinner; we sat on the stone bridge wall content in the sunshine.

Dinner Time!

However it wasn’t long before the Air Piranhas tracked us down and started to feast. We put on our midge defences but it was to no avail. We found if we walked while we ate it kept them at bay; seems they don’t like moving targets.

We pushed on for the last 6 miles, continually spoilt with the scenery. This has been by far the best day for the photographs.

Small Red Rock Waterfall
Don’t Forget to Look Back

I was lost in thought at one point, thinking about the thousands of people who have walked this path before me. The sites that not very many will have seen. Looking at the road you can see the grooves cut through the stone, made by the horse and carts that have traveled this path before. It is a very old route.

Grooves Made by Years of Cart Traffic
Close up of the Grooves

At the two mile point we rounded a corner where we caught site of the Kings House. The valley was just as spectacular as the last.

Kings House Between the Trees
WHW Marker

We also caught site of the ‘Devil’s Staircase’ our hardest section for tomorrow’s stage. I tried to photograph it but the camera in the phone didn’t cut it at this distance.

We arrived at our destination and booked in to the bunk house. We headed to the bar after a shower so my dad could have his Guinness and for me to write my blog. As we got to the main building there were deers in the carpark! They were friendly as fellow guests were feeding them.

Writing the Blog

According to a picture on the wall, we have walked 72 miles! Tomorrow is a very short 8 miles however we have the challenge of the ‘Devil’s Staircase’!

Bridge of Orchy

Glenardran House

The comfy beds were exactly what our weary bodies needed. However I woke with a dodgey stomach that required an Imodium. I can’t figure out if it was something I had eaten or my body is still in shock from the 21 miler.

We had our breakfast which made us feel human again and picked up a very hearty pack launch from the proprietors. There was a party of three ladies also doing the WHW that we had a chat with.

The BnB was a great choice and Rod was very knowledgeable about the WHW, giving us tips and advice for the rest of the journey. If anyone is undertaking this walk or just passing through, I really recommend you spend a night here.

We had to rejoin the WHW by climbing back through the forest. We reached the sign post pointing us further up the hill. This marks the halfway point.

Half of the WHW done

The next four miles according the map was going to be the most difficult for the day. It consisted of fairly steep inclines and declines.

Rare Break in the Forest
We Crossed a Few Streams
Forest Path

The path soon descended out of the woods and crossed the main road, opening to wide open fields and bog land of the Strath Fillan valley.

Small Bridge Leading to the Main Road

We came up to a cross road with a lost looking couple. They were undecided which route was the WHW. Luckily I had saved the map in offline mode for the Ordance Survey App as there was no signal. I was able to show them the way. Judging from their accents they were our friends from the continent. This is a multinational route, a great aspect of the experience.

Good deed done for the day, we continued on. We came across the ruins of the Fillan Priory and a very lonely graveyard that seems very out of place. I said to my dad, “I hope this isn’t a bad Omen”

Signs Around the Priory
Signs Around the Priory
St. Fillans Priory
Lonely Graveyard

The path underfoot was easy to walk, so we picked up the pace for the last 3 miles to Tyndrum, our halfway point for the day.

It was at this point my right knee really started to hurt and we had to slow the pace. (It was a bad omen) It was agony walking into Tyndrum. We did pass some stone carving to indicate the site of the Battle of Dalrugh.

I Will be King
Where’s the Lady of the Lake?

Rod from the Glenardran House told us about the ‘Green Welly Stop’ in Tyndrum. It is a a petrol station come cafe come gift shop come outdoor shop. We arrived and dumped our packs on a bench; I left dad guarding them as I hobbled in. My mission was to get another days snacks, a knee support and a walking pole. (I had only packed one)

Great Advice from Rod

We ate our pack lunches watching all the bikers out on their weekend ride come and go, before tackling the last 7 miles to the Bridge of Orchy. The terrain was easy going and with a bit of practice I got the rhythm right with the two poles and my steps.

The route continued along side the railway until it met the Allt Kinglass where we followed the river into the Bridge of Orchy. My knee gave me little bother unless climbing over stiles or steep descents.

Approaching Allt Kinglass

The views were spectacular and we took plenty of photo stops. My dad also got is own back for all the times as a child I said “Are we there yet?” Total bants.

Stunning Views
Looking Back
Dramatic Scenery
Taking a Photo Opportunity

We arrived at the our destination for the night and crossed the bridge to the wild camping spot. However I was unsure whether wild camping would be a wise option with my dicky bellie.

Orchy River

I went back up to the Bridge of Orchy Hotel to enquire if there were any vacancies; there was a twin room spare. After a conversation with dad, he insisted we stay as he didn’t want his sleep disturbed with me unzipping the tent to find a bush throughout the night. Also the bushes were too far of a distance to run to in an emergancy!

Bridge of Orchy Hotel

Only problem is, it stung the old purse strings; but they have the monopoly for this tiny hamlet. The price you pay for toilet facilities hey! As we booked in the rain started; we felt bittersweet as we watched the wild campers setting up their tents on the other side of the bridge.

We sat in the lounge while I updated the blog, watching through the window fellow walkers arriving into this little hamlet. Many like me, have the West Highland Strut! Some were wearing midge nets; seems we are getting more value for our money!

Dad was miffed when he went to the bar, as they don’t serve Guinness; the only thing that has kept him going for the last few days!

Tomorrow is the Kings House where we have booked into the bunk house, fingers crossed my stomach gets better.


Beinglas Campsite

We anticipated yesterday was going to be tough, just not as tough as it actually was. I booked ahead a B&B in Crainlarich, a short 7 miles from Beinglas. We are so glad we did!

We didn’t need to be up early so we remained in our sleeping bags to the sound of our fellow walkers dismantling their tents. When we emerged from ours most had gone.

We went to the bar for some breakfast and said goodbye to the few backpackers we had met over the last three days. As we are having a short day today, it will be unlikely we will cross paths again on this trip.

In the bar I took the time to write up my blog from yesterday’s trials and tribulations, while dad went for a shower.

Beinglas Campsite Bar

We still ached from yesterday and our legs were stiff, but we were in no rush. Around about 1100 we packed our tent away in yet another rain shower. The weather seemed to hold off until the most inconvenient moment.

Last Glimpse of Beinglas

We left the site at 1200 after stocking up at the shop. As per custom on this trek it was straight on to an incline. We reached the brow of the hill and looked back for our last look at the most welcomed port in the proverbial storm.

I highly recommend the Beinglas Campsite; they have cabins, glamping pods, bar and shop. They really catered for backpackers. I shall return for a short break sometime in the future.

Starters Incline

The route for about a mile was on a gravel stone road which made very easy walking, however it soon went to a stoney footpath typical of fell walking. The sun was out and the occasional showers didn’t warrant us putting our waterproofs on.

Looking Back Towards Beinglas

Always remember when on walks to look behind; it is good to see how far you have travelled and also you may miss out and some stunning scenery.

The footpath leads across a small river that joins the River Falloch, however when we got there the bridge was out. Thank god we didn’t have this obstacle last night! It certainly would have broke us!

No Bridge
Bridge Outage

We walked up and down the bank a few times to scout a suitable crossing point. I had flashbacks from when I had gotten lost on the descent of Skafell Pike during my three peak challenge; I had to wade across a river with my boots around my neck!

Luckily this time I found some adequate stepping stones!

Crossing Point

We continued on in the sunshine and the path eventually ran along side the train track, at which point a train slowly passed us. We did the most typical British thing and waved at all the passengers!

No Scrambling Today

Our spirits were high, the sun was out, the terrain was easy and we started to enjoy the walk again. The path eventually went under the railway and forcing us to crouch through the tunnel, which was awkward with the packs.


The path then went under the main road and up a steep section following an old military road. Luckily we had some sheep show us the way.

Checking we are Keeping up

The military road led up a gradual incline and presented little difficulty. When we had about 1 mile to go, the rain came back and was with us all the way to our B&B. The path to Crainlarich splintered away from the West Highland Way through a forest.

End of the WHW for today
Woodland Descent

We finally arrived in Crainlarich just as my GPS watch beeped 7 miles; I was more precise today than the day before! As we approached the village we passed the train station.

Crainlarich Station

Had this been the end of our day yesterday, I reckon there would have been a strong possibilty I would be home tonight!

We made our way to our B&B, the Glenardran House. We were greeted by Rod and Andrea, very friendly and welcoming proprietors. They couldn’t be more accommodating. They took our wet clothing and placed it in a drying room for us. The premise is warm and inviting, everything tired and wet walkers need; we made an excellent descision.


The pub was practically next door, so after a quick trip to the local shop for supplies we went in for a couple of pints and a meal.

Two Beers Please

Tomorrow is a 13 mile trek to the Bridge of Orchy which will be our first night wild camping! We will make the most of our warm beds tonight.


Wet Start

There isn’t a word in the English dictionary that could adequately describe yesterday. It was a challenging 21 miles to say the least.

We were up at the crack of dawn, packed away our wet tent and hit the road. There seems to be a theme occuring of a hill to climb immediately as we set off. There were several wooded hillocks that were hard going with our packs.

Steep Paths

The rain was a light drizzle which was quite comfortable walking through. At about 7 miles in we reached Rowardennan; roughly halfway up Loch Lomond.

Sheltering from the Rain

Dad had a blister forming so we stopped to apply the tape and top up our water bottles from an outdoor tap at a carpark for the Rowardennan Forest. It was at this point I noticed my right knee starting to hurt.

The path gently ascended through the forest where we kept passing little waterfalls before we eventually joined the narrow footpath following the shore of Loch Lomond.


There was plenty of wildlife on this path and blackberry bushes for us to snack on as we walked to keep our energy up.

Blackberry Picking
Baby Bird Blocked our Path
Shrew Foraging on the Path
Plenty of Frogs as Well

Along the path we reached Rob Roy’s Prison, this was where he kept the Sheriff Substitute of Dunbartonshire for a week. To access it, you have to go along the shore line; I didn’t fancy having a look with the wet rocks.

Standing on Top of the Prison

From here we navigated the wet and slipperly path heading towards Inversaid where we are hoping to get some food and a pint; but we still had a long way to go.

We found a little bench where we stopped for a chocolate bar and drink. As we had a snack so did the midges; as soon as you stopped the air piranhas would swarm. Out came the insect repellants, we put on both the Nordic Summer and the Avon Skin so Soft; double defense. It didn’t help, these Loch Lomond Midges are something else.

Applying the Skin so Soft

The weather wasn’t constant rain like the day before, it kept on having brief showers that you could see coming across the Loch; we got a few sunny spells in the mix.

Sunny Spell Over the Loch
The Rain Coming in from the Right

As we approached Rowchoish, we came across two buildings that had long crumbled and been taken over by moss. The whole area had an eerie vibe to it. We were finally on the last stretch to Inversnaid, our water was running low and our bellies were rumbling.


As we came into Inversnaid we crossed a bridge over a gushing waterfall and reached the hotel where we hoped to get some food. The place was all shut up and a few disappointed walkers hung around outside. At this point a heavy and windy down pour hit; we rushed to get our waterproofs on before we continued what would be 8 miles of gruelling hell.

We continued on the narrow path following the shoreline and came upon Rob Roy’s Cave. Another one of his haunts. The terrain at this point was starting to get troublesome, especially with our packs.

Rob Roy’s Cave

From this point, underfoot was trechorous. There were slippy rocks, fallen trees blocking the path and gnarly roots trying to snag your boots. It was very slow going till the end of the Loch.

Gnarly Roots
Fallen Trees

The hours passed and we hadn’t covered any distance. Eventually our water ran out and we had to find a small water fall to replenish our bottles using our Sawyer Filter. If there is one bit of advice I can give for this section, is to have a filter. There are no stops to refill so it is essential to have one.

By this point my knee was hurting, my shoulders were sore and my feet ached. Each vying for my attention, but we had to keep going. Every incline brought pain, ducking under the fallen trees was a chore. Our energy levels were teetering above empty. All we had left was trail mix that only provided a temporary energy boost.

The path finally opened up as we left the shores of the Loch. This marked the end of the horrendous terrain and the start of our run into Beinglas. The clouds parted and the sun graced us, perking up our spirits a little.

Path Opens up
Blue Skies at Last

The path meandered through small woods and bogs which were a dream compared to the terrain of the last 4 hours. We were treated with some stunning scenary.


I checked the map and we had another 4km to go. We were really struggling at this point. Our whole bodies were in pain but we were too exhausted to care. I could no longer expend the energy to keep lifting the pack off my shoulders.


We trudged on for 2km where we came upon a small hill. This really demoralised my dad, it was insurmountable, but there was no suitable ground to pitch up the tent and do some wild camping; we just had keep going. We dropped to a snails pace as we slowly tackled the climb; luckily from this point it was all downhill for the last 2km.

We arrived at dusk and it was a race to get the tent pitched before a rain shower hit. We had spent all what was left of our energy. We needed to rehydrate, so we filled our bottles up and dropped in an electrolite tablet, sat in the backpackers shelter to rest.

We hadn’t eaten properly all day and it was taking its toll. My teeth and fingers started to tingle and I was feeling faint. Luckily there is a shop on site so we purchased a Snicker bar and a small tub of pringles. I wolfed these down and soon the tingling subsided. We hit the onsite pub to order food and a pint.

Walkers Portion

I was far too exhausted to complete my blog, so I put a quick message on Facebook to say we had arrived and I would write up in the morning. We have definately earnt the sponsorship!