It is hard to believe three weeks ago, I was at the end of the world; time has flown! I have managed to find a gap in my schedule to put together a video of our adventure on the Camino de Fisterra. I hope you enjoy.
Now it’s time to start thinking and planning my next adventure. It will have to be a spectacular one, as 2024 will bring on my big Four-Oh! I have a few ideas; ‘The Old Way’ following the footsteps of Geoffrey Chaucer and his Canterbury Tales or take on the oldest of the Caminos, in the shadow of the first pilgrim, King Alfonso II; ‘The Primitivo’.
Two weeks ago today we arrived in to Santiago after covering the 110km from Sarria; the last portion of the Camino Frances. Getting back to normality after leaving the pilgrim life is never a smooth transition. The post pilgrimage blues can bit a kicker, even more so for my traveling companions, who will be experiencing this for the first time.
Reaching Santiago is never the end for a peregrino, going forward you see life under a different light and realise St. James Cathedral isn’t the finish line of the pilgrimage; in fact it is merely the beginning.
As an evocation of our journey I have put together a little video that can be found here:
I hope you enjoy seeing a little more to our adventure. Now to work on the Camino de Fisterra!
Although it was a short day, it felt like it was a long walk. The very early dinner of only tapas and nowhere for breakfast until we reached Fisterra, meant we were running on empty.
As it was a short day, we had a lay in, setting the alarm for 0700h. 30mins later we were out the door straight on to a hill that was fairly steep.
The Galician coast has numerous high ridges that form peninsulas. Corcubion sits on one side of one and the route crosses over into Estorde, where it follows the coast to the opposing peninsula where Faro de Fisterra sits.
Once at the top of the ridge, we could see Fisterra lighthouse in the distance; barely visible in the predawn light. As we came into Estorde the dawn sky was awash with morning colours.
We hoped to stop for breakfast here but everywhere was closed, seems places also take Tuesdays off!
We continued on, through Sardineira, up and over a small wooded hill then followed the coast into Fisterra. We were flagging a little, which prompted a bit of Camino Magic.
A hotel opened their breakfast to pilgrims, indicated by a chalk written sign saying “you are 15 steps away from breakfast”.
With fully bellies, we now had a spring in our steps and it was a breeze into Fisterra. We passed our New Zealand friend in town, who made it despite her foot problem.
Our journey was not over yet though, there was still 3km until the end of the world. The road rises steeply out of town before a long steady incline to the lighthouse.
This bit seemed to go on for ever, as it did last time. Eventually we got to the final 300m which is flat! The 0.00km way marker stood before us, a welcoming sight of triumph.
Once we had the photos taken we went to the very edge of the peninsula, a cross marks the spot where pilgrims leave something behind to represent their old life and go forward anew.
There was only one thing left to do, have a drink at the end of the world. We sat on a sun terrace with a cold beer to celebrate the end of the Camino.
We walked back into Fisterra to the hotel; to my mum’s Chagrin, it is on top of a hill. Once showered we had pizza in town before heading to the beach to watch the sun set over the Atlantic Ocean.
We now have a couple of days in Fisterra before we make our way back to Santiago by bus, ready for our flight back to Blighty on Saturday.
It was a long and tough one today due to no stops between Hospital and Cee. We truly were in the wilderness for most of the journey.
We weren’t the first out of the albergue for a change, two peregrinos were out before 0600h! We set off around 0640h, ascending in the dark on the last of the big hills for this Camino.
After 4km we arrived at Logoso for breakfast, stood outside waiting for a taxi were our friends from Acrington, we shared a pilgrims meal with, at Santa Marina.
They are running out of time, so they are skipping ahead to Cee and walking to Fisterra from there. We wished them a buen camino.
Dawn had arrived once breakfast was eaten, however there were no red skies, just grey clouds covering the heavens. It was a steady ascent up to Hospital taking the right hand path leading to Fisterra.
The route passes through woodlands that cover the hills that lead to the coast. After a short descent, we came to Cruceiro Marco do Couto. The traditional point where pilgrims would decide whether to take the left path to Muxia or the Right to Fisterra.
It was in these woods that a Bishop in the 15th century while on pilgrimage, witnessed werewolves and strange creatures. He called them Vákner. A local sculptor has made a huge metal statue of this beast.
The path undulated until the little chapel of Santa Ermida das Neves. Over the next 3 km it steadily rises before plateauing out before the speedy descent into Cee.
It was tough going with no amenities on this stretch. A chapel for San Pedro Martir, marks the last of the big hills. It was level from there until just before Cee. On the way into the town, we met our New Zealand friend from Santa Marina. She has picked up a foot injury and her pace had dropped to a crawl, but she was still in good spirits.
We stopped at the first bar for a cold drink then moved on to find somewhere to eat, however it appears most places are closed on Mondays. With tired legs and empty bellies we made our way to our accommodation for the night, to check in.
Luckily the chap at the desk pointed out a bar that will be open. When we turned up the kitchen had just closed, however the waiter persuaded them to stay open for tapas. Camino Magic!
After two long days in the Sun, I had promised my mum this would be a short day, and I delivered; a 12.5km stroll.
We were the first out of the albergue, way before 0700h. There was no mist this morning and the stars watched us from above. If it hadn’t been for the full moon, I reckon we would have been able to see the Milky Way.
Today mainly followed the road apart from a short section that leads up to the highest point on this route. We made good timing arriving at the summit just before dawn arrived. The sky was growing redder as the Sun approached.
From there it was down hill into Lago for breakfast. The route follows a country road weaving between wooded hills, before flattening out into Ponte Olveira.
In this stretch a dog was sunbathing in the road and the passing cars had to drive around him. However, seeing us approach gave him enough cause to trot over wagging his tail for a head scratch.
A short distance on we stopped for a drink at Ponte Olveira then moved on to our destination, Olveiroa. We arrived before check in time, thus we relaxed in the sun with a beer.
The albergue we chose has towels! And it is a lot better than the albergue I stayed at, two years ago. With the afternoon free, it felt like a rest day, which is good, as tomorrow is another long day.
It was another toughie with the heat and the ascent for the most of the first 10km for breakfast.
We set off before 0700h to beat the heat and it was very misty, which hindered the drying of our clothes; we spent a bit of time attaching our undergarments to our bags before setting off.
We made our way with head torches on through quiet village streets and woodland, only able to see 5 metres or so in front of us. As the ascent continued we broke above the mist layer into the sunshine as dawn arrived. The light was spectacular and I was having a whale of a time taking pictures; playing with the sunlight through the trees.
It really gave a scenic and peaceful vibe to the walk. At around 10km we had our first stop, at ‘A Pena’, for breakfast. The path from here joins the road which it pretty much follows until Vilaserio. The sun was out now, and an ice cream was on the cards.
The next it was an 8km stretch to the finishing point for the day with no watering holes in between. The temperature kept on rising but thankfully the worst of the hills were done for the day.
Once we arrived at the albergue we forwent the chores and showers for a couple of cold beers. Once we had cooled down and thirst quenched, we then got on with our albergue chores.
We had the pilgrims meal at a table with peregrinos from Canada, New Zealand and the UK. We shared stories of our adventures, a good time was had.
Having completed the ‘Mini Camino Frances’, I still have a week and a bit left of my leave, which is plenty of time to sneak in another Camino; the road to the end of the world, Fisterra, called out to me.
Traveling with me, is my mum. Joe and Chris will be leaving Santiago for home, due to work.
Negreira is 21.96km and there is a killer of a hill at the 12km point. It is a 10% incline for over 2km! It was the only hill I remember from when I did Santiago to Muxia two years ago.
We left just before 0700h to avoid most of the forecasted heat. The streets of Santiago we silent, a complete contrast to the daytime.
The descent out of town leads down to the ruins of an old water mill that is now consumed by vegetation. The path then raises up through woodlands to a viewpoint back over the city, with the cathedral’s spires silhouetted against the predawn light.
The Camino is also very silent and hardly any fellow peregrinos are on the trail; this gave my mum a glimpse of what the Camino is like before Sarria. After passing through a couple of villages and woodlands, we stopped for breakfast, 7km into the walk.
It was pretty much a steady down hill walk into Augapesada. The sun was out now and a cold drink was in order before tackling ‘The Hill’.
A bit of Camino magic materialised in the form of a cloud that shaded us as we made our way up the 2km ascent. As we reached the top, it dissipated and the clear skies were back.
Luckily that was the worst one of the day and the last one, save for a short ascent into Negreira. After calling into a bar at Trasmonte and being serenaded by a little black cat, we passed over the bridge at Ponte Maceira.
The route follows the river for a short while before the final ascent into town. It was fiercely hot now and the hill seemed to drag on a bit.
We booked into the albergue, the same one I stopped at last time. I was glad there was space, as this one provides towels!
We popped into town for a couple of beers and food. Tomorrow is roughly a 16km stage. Just as well as the forecast is meant to be even hotter than today!
We did it, after 8 days walking across Galicia we have a arrived at the provincial capital, Santiago de Compostela.
It was another predawn start, aiming to avoid crowds coming out of O Pedrouzo. The plan worked, we pretty much had the Camino to ourselves. The first 3km was mostly up hill that levels off until Monte do Gozo, when the route starts the descent into Santiago.
The obligatory picture of the 10km way marker was taken although it was a bit difficult getting a good one in the dark!
Around the 4km point we stopped for breakfast, the last one on ‘The Way’. From here it was a short kilometre to Monte do Gozo where we got our first look of the cathedral in the distance.
The descent to our destination began. The peaceful countryside gave way to the bustling streets of the city. The footpaths became evermore crowded as the tide of pilgrims flowed into Santiago.
The kilometres slipped by until the familiar sound of bagpipes heralding the cathedral square, was just around the corner.
We passed under the archway in to square, emotions flowing that our journey had come to its end. We hugged and congratulated each other. Pictures and messages sent to our friends and family to say we arrived.
Once we obtained our compostelas we headed to a little back street restaurant for some well deserved tortilla y potata and a beer; and of course, some Torta de Santiago!
Once booked into the Pension, first order of business was finding a laundromat. Then it was time to celebrate. We had a look around the cathedral and attended the pilgrims mass. However the Camino hadn’t finished with us, we got to see the botafumeiro swing!
It’s been another great experience on the Camino, and I managed to get everyone over the finishing line, just hope they will give me a 5 star rating on trip advisor!
It was a very short walk today in comparison to our previous days, in fact we spent more time in a bar than walking!
We were almost the last peregrinos to leave the albergue with most out the doors at 0630h. O Pedrouzo is typically the start point for the final day into Santiago. However we are stopping half way at Lavacolla.
We had breakfast at the same cafe the morning after we landed in Spain. At the time I said we would be walking past here in a weeks time, and my prophecy was fulfilled!
Once our plates were emptied we began our penultimate day, walking through the misty woodlands that sit between O Pedrouzo and the airport.
We made amazing time, 7 days of walking has clearly increased everyone’s fitness. Just before the halfway point for the day, Chris went to stroke a cat on the side of the road, that decided to make a home on his backpack; it was reluctant to leave, leaving Chris to come to terms that he had just adopted a cat!
A little bit further on we arrived at cafe 15km, the spot marking the ascent up to the airport. It was barely 1000h, so we stopped for a drink and some cake.
The steep climb to the airport ensued. We took our time and steadily we reached the summit. There was a souvenir store that had wax stamps! The Camino provides again! After I thought we wouldn’t get any, the Camino provided us with two.
As we followed the route around the runway, as we reached the end of the tarmac, an aeroplane came into land just as we were underneath it; I had to quickly grab my hat before it blew off!
It was an easy stroll into San Paio arriving at 1230h; Lavacolla is just 2km on and check-in was at 1500h. We stopped at the bar until about 1430h, relaxing, watching the world go by and chatting with fellow pilgrims.
As we left, two peregrinos from Wolverhampton joined us into Lavacolla, where they had booked into accommodation opposite us. Their journey started in Logrono, and their day beginning just before Arzua.
Tomorrow will be 10km ending at Santiago. A good week on the Camino coming to an end. There is a buzz in the air!
Despite it being almost 20km today we made good time and arrived in O Pedrouzo mid afternoon on another hot day.
As it would be a longer day, we were out of the doors before 0700h, walking in the dark with head torches on. It was a small descent out of Arzua through woodland before the first hill to Pregontono. There were samplings on the way that reflected the torch, giving a eerie view.
We stopped in Pregontono for breakfast as dawn broke. Fuelled up, we continued up the last of the fairly steep hills of today’s journey.
The kilometres flew by and it wasn’t long before we reached the bottle bar ‘Tia Dolores’. But to our disappointment, it is closed, all the bottle sculptures gone, all that remains is an empty yard. Twice now we have been scuppered, no wax stamp and now no bottle bar.
We passed a wall that had philosophical questions and quotes on posters, one of which resonated with me and pretty much sums the Camino up.
We continued on over the next 3k stopping for a drink at Boavista. Then on to A Brea for lunch. From there it was 5km into O Pedrouzo, to the albergue next door to the Pensión we stayed at 1 week ago.
For dinner we headed to a Mexican restaurant that had wax stamps! The Camino provides! A little gem of a place with really tasty food.
Although it’s only 20k to Santiago we are going to split it into two days, hopefully our journey into the Galician capital will be less crowded this way. Lavacolla tomorrow.
Stu's Camino 