It really was a culture shock today after spending weeks seeing so few people and little places to stop. The way being full of peregrinos and cafes almost every 2km, feels like a different world.

Another very late start. We were the last out the albergue and we headed straight to a cafe for breakfast. 9 o’clock had been and gone before we set off.

Samual joined us for a short while, he is spending a rest day in Arzúa so friends of his will join him in the evening.

It was another cold start and no real hill to warm me up properly. But the sun was out and it slowly warmed up to be a glorious day – it felt like I’m on holiday.

After a couple of kilometres Samual said his farewells and the four of us continued on. We took it easy, walking as a group, stopping at a few cafes for empanadas and cold drinks – once midday arrived we were on the beers.

The way is so busy, many people walking and a fair share of tourigrinos. Large groups clogged the paths. It’s probably no more than previous years, but having spent the last 35 days in the solitude of the Norte, it really felt crowded.

I now walked familiar paths, enjoying the warm sunshine and the easy pace. Before we knew it we arrived into O Pedrouzo. Feeling in a party mood we went for beers and had food at the Mexican restaurant that gave out wax stamps!

We made some new friends, Gavin from Dublin and Bestin from Australia. I also met Andy and Michelle again – great to see familiar faces among the scores of new pilgrims.

Tomorrow is Santiago. The last day on the Camino. The end of the adventure is upon me.

The Camino gave us a perfect day in all respects, for the last one on the Norte before it joined the hustle and bustle of the Frances.

It was the coldest start of the Camino so far – gloves cold! We all met for breakfast at a cafe just outside the monastery. The place was packed with pilgrims, the most I’ve seen in recent days.

As dawn arrived we set off. Mist clung to the fields that surround the Mosteiro de Santa Maria. I was keen to get warm, so I went full pace to reach the first hill of the day.

Once at the top I was fully warmed up. The route mostly consisted of country roads through the forested green rolling hills of Galicia. At 10km it was time for a break at Boimorto.

The Sun still hadn’t warmed everything up enough to take off my jumper, but it was a lot more comfortable. Continuing on we had the route to ourselves.

Just before Arzúa, the Camino gave us our last farewell to the Norte. Peaceful surrounds, cows grazing in the fields, the sun lazily shining through the trees and only birdsong and our footsteps could be heard. Our last bit of solace before we join the cacophony of the Camino Frances.

Once in town we sat at a bar for a few drinks, slightly in celebration mode. We played a game of ‘spot the tourigrino’ as the pilgrims made their way along the Camino Frances.

Later we all met up for food and drinks. We had to say goodbye to Christavel, who will be pulling a big day to Santiago tomorrow due to commitments, and Samual is spending a rest day in Arzúa to meet up with friends.

The end of the adventure is racing towards me now.

A wet morning in the hills, a cafe that had deliverance vibes and a night in a monastery, not to mention the highest point on the Norte done – quite an eventful day.

Just after 0800h I was out the door with the promise of breakfast in 2km. It was warm and dry at first but rain was on the way. I was hoping to get to the cafe before the deluge arrived, however it was closed.

The route goes over a rocky heath where I caught up with Judyta, just as the rain arrived. Ponchos on and umbrella up, but it wasn’t enough, my trainers were soon wet.

As misery enjoys company we walked together. It was mostly flat with the occasional incline. The terrain was kind with a good respite from road walking when needed.

We got 10km done and there had been nowhere to stop. We sheltered under a bus stop – the rain didn’t let up. We trudged on for another 6km to shelter under a dilapidated barn.

We checked Google maps to only find we were 50m from a cafe. Giggling at the absurdity, we made a dash for it. It’s basically a small farm with a seating area in the kitchen.

Chickens were running free, big German shepherds watched us, and a very strong smell of farmyard and wet dog hung in the air. We took a seat inside at the kitchen table. The owner cooked us up a fresh cheese omelette bocadillo – and I got an earl grey tea to warm up.

The rain had eased off. We continued on and with every step the sky brightened and eventually the Sun came out to play. The walking became easier, and without knowing we passed over the highest point on the Camino Norte. There was no sign indicating this, I only found out after looking at the map once we arrived at Meśon where we had another break.

5km on we arrived into Sobrado in high spirits. We passed a small lake on the way into town that caused us to pause for pictures.

Our albergue for the night is in a monastery, the monk originally from England, booked us in for the night. I took a look around the cloisters and the church with amazing stone masonry. Renovations have been taking place and has transformed the albergue into a modern establishment.

Andy and Michelle are staying here as well, I hadn’t expected to see them again, it was a nice bit of Camino magic.

For once there were a few restaurants open on a Monday and finding something to eat wasn’t a problem. Tomorrow we join the Camino Frances, on the run into Santiago. We will have to book ahead now as it gets busy – I had forgotten how busy the Frances is, it took me three attempts to find some beds!

The day was longer than intended with a mix of Sun and rain, road and forest paths. Fairly easy walk and mostly flat.

I joined Judyta for breakfast before starting the day – it had gone 0900h, certainly the latest start on this Camino. I realised I had left my water bottle in the albergue, after making a slight detour back I was on the road.

I walked with an Australian called Malcolm. He had been walking since Ribadeo and I was the first native English speaker he had met.

The kilometres flew by. The route had a mixture of country road and soft forest paths with a couple of bridge crossings.

After a quick break A Lamela, it began to rain. We joined Elliot and Samual over the next 5km or so into Baamonde – Samual and Malcolm are stopping here. Once the rest of the gang arrived we had dinner together.

We still had 14km to cover and it was 1420h when we had finished our food, thankfully the Sun was out now. From here you follow the main road for a couple of kilometres passing the 100km marker.

At the small San Alberte Church, nestled amongst the trees, the path ascends through a forest joining a winding country road through tiny hamlets.

Elliot and I pulled head having a similar pace. Having good company the kilometres dropped away. The original plan was to stop at Miraz, but at 1730h we were still walking, being late in the day, we stopped at A Logoa.

A great little albergue with pilgrims menu. The owner has to be the most friendly and accommodating of all the hospitalarios I’ve met in the Norte – very worth the stop.

The rain had been falling during the night and into the morning. Not wanting to spend the entire day in ponchos, we all decided to take a short day and head to Vilalba.

We took our time over breakfast in hope that the rain would stop – it didn’t. Ponchos on and into the drizzle we ventured. Straight on to a forest path, all dark and moody.

Samual and I edged ahead of the group and caught Judyta up. The three of us walked together for a while, chatting about our plans when we get to Santiago and beyond.

Not much scenery today as it was masked by the rain or in woodlands. But being with good company the wet kilometres flew by.

We arrived in Vilalba just after 1200h, hungry and drenched. We grabbed a drink in a cafe and a pincho de Tortilla y Potata – which really was a small portion, just more than a mouthful!

Once booked into the albergue, more familiar faces arrived Yorst and Ouni. After a quick trip to the supermarket for dinner, Elliot wanted to watch the football, so we made our way to a sports bar, then met up with few more of my Camino pals for food.

Sometimes taking the longer route pays off, and it did today. Out of my walking pals, only two of us took the complimentary alternative way – 5 km more!

It was dry to start with, with a great sunrise as I made my way up the valley. Some of the best views since entering Galicia.

The way is on a very little used road, gently ascending along one side of the valley. Ahead the cloud level was getting closer and at the point it leaves the road on to a soft gravel path, the ascent quickly increases.

After passing what looks like a kiln, now over grown with vegetation, the path zigzags up to the head of the valley; into cloud.

The temperature dropped, prompting me to put my jumper on, but not wet enough for the poncho. A slow decline through farmland took me into Gontán. At the cafe, Samual and Karel were already there, and shortly after we were joined by the rest of the gang.

It was here I found they had taken the short cut, and followed the main route. Swapping stories, they had spent most of the walk in the cloud – they were looking a bit damp.

With 5km to go, we called into a Spar for snacks and made our way to the albergue. I walked the last bit with Samual, another Camino veteran.

The albergue has rustic vibe with communal meal. Very chilled out evening with good company, familiar faces and new.

Considering this was meant to be a hard day, it really wasn’t despite it being 30km. Perfect weather conditions and fantastic scenery made it a pleasant day.

Breakfast was at 0800h, so it was a very late start, especially for a 30km day. It had rained during the night to refresh the air and the skies were clear when I began the day.

The route slowly ascends giving better views of the Galician region with every step. Tree covered mountains and green fields filled the valleys. Until ‘A Ponte de Arante’ I walked with Judyta, who is celebrating her birthday today – great way to spend it on a Camino!

The little chapel to the Virgin Mary at the hamlet had centuries old drawings on the walls that have been exposed by removing the plaster. Some were a bit odd, there was a skeleton archer?!

Elliot had caught us up and from here it was the biggest ascent of the day, which again was a walk in the park. Elliot and I pulled head with a good pace.

The mixture of country roads and soft gravel forest paths continued, around 10km in, we were getting hungry, but all the bars were shut or the kitchen was closed. After a quick drink at San Xusto we continued onto Lourenzá, a small town that should have amenities – but their kitchens were closed!

With 7km to go I pulled on ahead wanting to get to Mondoñedo asap. It was a pleasant walk through the Galician countryside in glorious sunshine but without the heat.

I arrived into town to find there is a horse fair, one of the oldest in Spain. Outside the cathedral a procession of horses herded into to the square. A huge crowd had gathered to see the show, and the riders were interviewed.

Before the crowd the dispersed I joined my fellow peregrinos for a meal. Samual, John, Elliot, Judyta and Karel from the Czech Republic – he was in the albergue last night.

With full bellies we returned to the albergue. Tomorrow we’re doing a stage and a bit to stop an albergue that is highly recommended – but there is a bit of a hill to conquer first.

If it wasn’t for the moody weather, it would have been a third day of uninspiring scenery. The clouds gave the landscape a certain gravitas.

Another short day thus another late start. There was a light drizzle when I set off that occasionally turned into fleeting showers. The route follows the beach out of town then through farmland.

There was a certain bleakness to the landscape enhanced by the passing rain clouds clinging to the hills. The poncho was on and off, but ahead of me were sunny skies above Ribadeo.

I eventually came the bridge spanning the estuary between Asturias and Galicia. With only a metal wired wall separating the footpath from the highway, I made the crossing.

Galicia the last region of the journey has now been reached. With one last look back at Asturias and the sea, I entered Ribadeo.

The route now turns inland towards Santiago, leaving the coast. Already the landscape has changed, as the Galician hills await. It may sound weird, but I instantly felt lighter entering this region, almost like home.

I stopped for a bite to eat at a cafe; John and Judyta shortly joined and we continued the last 6km, steadily up hill into the forested Galician countryside.

The rain returned with showers, but we didn’t get too wet. Vilela, is a small collection of houses with the albergue being the local bar and restaurant – it even has a swimming pool, although it’s a little too cold for me.

The same gang from last night are here, with a few new faces in the dormitory. Tomorrow is a 30km with a large-ish hill off the bat.

Today had been a low energy day with lacklustre views. The consolation was that it was overcast, keeping me from baking in the Sun.

It was a very late start by Camino standards this morning, it was closer to 0900h and sunrise had been and gone. I walked with Judyta, as route ascends out of town.

The scenery was much the same as yesterday, country roads surrounded by cornfields and large agricultural businesses blotted the landscape – it also followed the main road.

The lack of scenery and noise from the road prompted me to search for my earphones, however I seemed to have misplaced them.

We stopped for a drink at a roadside bar then continued on into La Caridad. I wanted a tortilla y potata however, Judyta wasn’t hungry and carried on.

I grabbed the sello from the church; one of the few I’ve seen on this route that has been open and has a stamp!

The scenery didn’t change until finally reaching Tapia, a small coastal town. The Albergue is almost on the beach however check in is 1530h. With an hour and a half to kill, I went to the harbour for a drink at a bar.

Later I met up for dinner with Elliot, Samuel, Judyta and John. We’re all in the same albergue and heading to the same destination tomorrow.

Mostly a straight forward day past cornfields, the only difficulty was the heat, and very little shade.

I left just before sunrise and caught a great view of a tiny hamlet nestled in a valley, the sky a pastel blue and light pink clouds.

A short section through woodland followed, then it was country road walking. Corn rows towered above me. After 10km I reached Luarca.

A pretty port town that leads from the cliff tops to the estuary. Here two pilgrims I had met in San Martin had just finished breakfast, so I joined them into the town. However I had to get some supplies.

It was a steep ascent up the other side then back into the countryside. The Sun was fully out now and my surrounds being open farmland, there was no shade – not even from a brief climb through an eucalyptus wood,

I continued on, stopping briefly for a drink at Villapedre, and by 1530h I was at my destination. A quick shower and I went in search of a bar. In town I met Judyta who I shared the communal meal with way back in Santillana.

I had a couple of drinks with her before finding something to eat. The next stage is a short 20km on advice from the hospitario. The stage after Ribadeo is meant to be difficult – the Galician mountains are coming!