Stu's Camino

2025 Hawkshead Adventure

Day One

For a change this year, we decided to spend a week in Hawkshead rather than Keswick – also we’ve gone Monday to Monday this time.

The M6 was flowing and after a leisurely drive up we got to Windermere, at 1300h we stocked up at the supermarket before moving on to Hawkshead.

Just after 1500h we arrived at the lodge. The sun was out and little clouds dotted the sky. With rain forecast for the week, we made the most of the sunshine, and set off to climb Latterbarrow before dinner.

An easy walk along quiet country lanes to the footpath up the small hill, that wasn’t demanding – a nice warm up for the week. At the top we reached the cairn marking the summit and paused for selfies. Although not a Wainwright it still gave views of Ambleside and lake Windermere.

We returned to Hawkshead to have a quick post walk pint at the Queens Head, before returning to the lodge for tacos and a dip in the hot tub.

Day Two

It had rained heavily throughout the night leaving the roads and fields flooded. According to the forecast, it is meant to be the best of the week.

To bag a Wainwright, Pete, Joe and I set off for Black Crag – the nearest to Hawkshead. Just after 1000h we ventured out under threatening skies.

We started on quiet single lanes, slowly ascending towards Iron Keld Plantation – a small forested area below Black Fell. We were subjected to small light showers, but nothing worth donning the waterproofs for.

We dodged the puddles and at one point a herd of cows being moved to a farmers field. As we began our ascent of Black Crag the wind picked up.

Emerging from the tree line, up the fell we reached the summit cairn. Holding on to our hats, we got the summit selfie then began our descent to the Drunken Duck Inn.

Following forest paths, the wind dropped allowing me to practice with my new drone – something I want to take on my Caminos.

The path reached a small road to the pub, where we stopped for lunch and a pint – I had the lentil and carrot soup.

It was an hours walk back to the lodge along gravel forest paths and quiet lanes. That’s another Wainwright ticked off, and I was ticked as well.

Behind my left knee, the little blighter had attached itself. I had opted for shorts, and at some point I had brushed across a plant where this little vampire awaited its chance.

It was funny, as I was walking, I recalled conversations I had on the Norte last year. Many pilgrims commented on me wearing shorts all the time, and if I was worried about ticks with the risk of Lyme disease – I wasn’t.

With a pull of a pair of tweezers, I was free of the little blood sucker. Pete and Joe were quite smug having worn trousers.

We got showered and changed, ready to head into Ambleside for food and the cinema. We watched the ‘Salt Path’ featuring the 600mile coastal walk around Cornwall.

Back at the lodge we were preparing for a dip in the hot tub, when shouts of “Tick” from both Joe and Pete reverberated through the lodge. They both had them munching on their legs! – so much for trousers!

My tweezer skills were back in action.

Day Three

Heavy rain and hail showers greeted us between sunny spells in the morning, making it risky of miserable walking on some high peaks. We opted for plan B, a day in Windermere.

A bus ride took us to the train station where we ascended Orrest Head. This small hill overlooking the lake. Here is where it all began for Alfred – the birth of the Wainwrights.

He had taken a day trip as child with his parents and climbed to the view point on top. In awe of the landscape, it inspired him to walk every peak in the Lake District.

From there we had lunch in the town before catching the bus to Ambleside. After a mooch around the outdoor shops – I got myself a new waterproof coat for the Camino. We had our traditional crazy golf game.

On a course we’ve never played on, it could be anyone’s game – it was my mums.

Back to the lodge for a quick cuppa, then it was back out to the Queen’s Head where we had booked a table for dinner.

Then it was a ghost tour of Hawkshead. We met outside the ‘Kittchen’, a cat themed bar that rescues cats. The guide dressed in Victorian garb complete with a top hat, took us around the village.

Telling stories of ghostly dogs, boggles, witchcraft and serial killers. He was very entertaining, inviting audience participation – I played the serial killer, Thomas Lancaster. His preferred method of dispatch being poisoned figs. He murdered at least 13 people!

We returned to the lodge, ending the evening with a dip in the hot top while the rain poured down – it even hailed for a bit!

Day Four

The rain continued into the morning. We hopped on to the bus bound to Coniston, winding around the narrow country lanes.

When we arrived the sun was trying to break through but the clouds held fast. We went down to the lake and grabbed breakfast at the cafe on the shore.

The rain poured to the delight of the ducks waddling about the stony beach. With full bellies, the downpour stopped and as we Made our way back to the village centre, the sun finally made a showing!

We had a look at Donald Campbell’s grave, the pilot of the Bluebird speed boat that crashed in 1967, trying to get the water speed record. His body wasn’t recovered until 2001.

A quick pint at the Crown, then we went to the Ruskin Museum to see the restored Bluebird wreckage. While there we met his daughter Gina. There are other displays about the life of John Ruskin; a scholar and teacher.

Even one about local war hero James Hewitson who fought in the trenches in WW1. He had been injured four times and went back to the front lines after each recovery – he was awarded the Victoria Cross.

Bus ride back to Hawkshead followed where we had a few drinks in the village, before returning to the lodge for a quiet evening in, playing board games.

Day Five

It hammered down all night but the morning brought sunshine. We took a walk to Wray Castle across the fields.

The route wasn’t strenuous, a nice stroll over rolling hills. Past flocks of sheep and lambs. I even got to practice more with my drone.

After 5km we got to the castle. It’s not a real one, it was built to mimic one. Now owned by the national trust – unfortunately it’s under renovation inside, so we couldn’t have a look round. We stopped for lunch at the cafe then returned back to Hawkshead.

Covering 11km today, we deserved a post walk beer at the Red Lion Inn. It was back to the lodge for a dip in the hot tub before, chippy Friday.

The old pub, now chip shop ‘The Sun’ was our eatery for the night. It was a chilled evening back at the lodge.

Day Six

As per form, it rained throughout the night and was still pouring when we got up. We headed to Ambleside for a very wet Parkrun – three laps around Rothay Park.

It was packed and there were choke points in the path, forcing you into single file to avoid a head on collision with the faster runners.

With plenty of muddy puddles to splash through, I enjoyed myself – despite getting one of my slower times.

Cold and damp, we opted to return to the lodge to shower and change, rather than get a post run breakfast.

Once dried off we caught the bus back into Ambleside for lunch then walked up to Stockghyll Force – a series of waterfalls that flow into the village.

We grabbed a beer at the ‘Force’ cafe at the top, boasting views down the lake and Black Fell just below the clouds – Coniston Old Man was fully enveloped.

We returned to Hawkshead relaxing for a couple of hours before heading to the Red Lion, for dinner and the pub quiz. We didn’t do too bad, coming 4th.

Day Seven

There was only light rain this time and it was relatively dry compared to the rest of this adventure. Pete, Elina and I jumped in the car to Grisedale Forest leaving my mum and Joe to go to Beatrix Potter‘s house at hill top.

We took the walk up to Carron Crag, the highest point in the forest. From the visitor centre the route follows a wide gravel path upwards. Cyclists whizzed past until the footpath bifurcates up a steep rocky section.

It wound up eventually joining another wide gravel path. We had to pause for a furry caterpillar crossing the road, then made the last stint to the summit.

We got our selfies at the trig point, then descended, passing wooden sculptures as we made our way back to the visitor centre in time for lunch.

After food we took a quick walk to see the ‘Go Ape’ obstacle course, watching people zip line through the trees. We returned to the lodge for a soak in the hot tub before dinner.

For the last night in Hawkshead, we had a drink in the Queens Head, then played a board game back at the lodge. Monday is a day of travelling, so we didn’t want a heavy night.

The week passed too quickly, time flies when you’re having fun.

Japan Adventure Day 13 – Nara

Rain was forecasted for 1400h, so we had to get as much outdoor stuff done asap.

Our destination was Nara, another former capital. During the height of Buddhism in Japan, it was the seat of power. The city is renowned for its temples and the bowing deers.

Within the Nara national park, you walk among the temples, woods and Sika deer. For 200¥ you can buy a stack of crackers to feed them. They bow to you and you bow back and give them the treat.

However if you don’t give them a treat or you are crowded by them, they’ll give you a nip. Pete and Ellina experienced that, however all I had, was them licking my arm.

We then passed through the largest temple gate in Japan, Nandiamon. Two 8 metre wooden sculptures of gods flank each side, said to ward off evil spirits.

We then toured the Isui-en gardens. An estate for tea ceremonies. Traditional Japanese tea houses looked out onto the picturesque gardens.

At this point it started to rain, we headed back to Nara centre for lunch then made our way back to Kyoto.

Back in the city we went up the Kyoto tower, just a little disappointed it was raining as it clouded the views.

We had a mooch around Nishiki market having some dinner and drinks. It wasn’t a late one, back at the hotel for 2030h. It’s an early start tomorrow to get the bullet train back to Tokyo to catch our flight back to Blighty.

A great day to end this amazing trip. The deers were the best!

Japan Adventure Day 12 – Uji

Another glorious sunny day.

There is an exhibition at the Kyoto Museum about Japanese art throughout its history. Interesting to see that the style took influence from China and Asia before the western techniques arrived.

It also showed how Buddhism made a huge impact in developing this unique style. There were statues of Buddha and influential monks. One shows the monk opening up his chest to review Buddha within.

From there we headed to Uji, known for sencha and matcha tea. There is a museum showing how the tea is made, with the old machines on display.

We had a look around the tea shops in the area before heading back to Kyoto for dinner. I found a Japanese curry house tucked down a small alleyway, while Pete and Ellina went for Kobe beef.

Afterwards we met up for drinks at a couple bars before heading back to the hotel.

Japan Adventure Day 11 – Osaka

No rain insight when we left the hotel, and the sun was out.

We got the rapid train for Osaka, and 30min later it pulled into the Umeda station. Having breakfast at a soup bar (it was 1000h by this point) we got ready for the day.

First on the agenda was the Osaka Castle. The ornate and imposing building, sits on a hill with a maze of fortifications and moats below.

Walking through them, you can see it’s designed to slow and tire attacking forces, with plenty of walls for archers to snipe from.

For lunch we headed to the Soemoncho area. It is very colourful, with the shops and eateries adorned with seafood figures and such.

Finding a tiny restaurant down an alley – the best places always off the beaten path – I had kimchi and cheese okonommiyaki.

It’s like a pasta bake, but without the pasta, but I loved it. We then went to the ferris wheel at a Don Quixote store – this one’s odd as is elliptical.

Surviving the ride, we deserved a drink at a local craft bar before dinner at a ramen restaurant. It was then time to get the train back to Kyoto.

Japan Adventure Day 10 – Kyoto

It rained throughout the night and the day, a part from a short break around 1600h, it was a wet one today.

We jumped on the train to Arashiyama district of Kyoto, known for its bamboo forests and the last operating tram line in the city.

First stop was the Yusai-Tei gallery. A traditional Japanese style house tucked away within a forest that had rooms that gave different perspectives of the surrounding woods using reflections off surfaces.

From there we visited the bamboo forest that was packed – it had been made popular on instagram. I still managed to get some pictures though.

After some Japanese curry we got the last operating tram in Kyoto back towards the market and shopping area.

We had a couple of drinks and a snack then made our way back to the hotel to dump our stuff and go to a nearby restaurant.

The rain had picked up and the restaurants were closed, not wanting to venture too far with the rain, we had a 7Eleven dinner and ate back at the hotel.

Hopefully the rain will stop tomorrow.

Japan Adventure Day 9 – Kyoto

It was cold this morning, there was no central heating in the house, only gas heaters in the lounge, and utility room.

We headed straight to the train station to get back to Tokyo for the bullet train to Kyoto. It was far warmer in the capital.

We jumped on the train and sped south. Two hours later, we were in the old capital. We booked into the hotel and went straight out to find the old town and get some food.

We called into a restaurant on the edge of the old town, before going to the Yasaka shrine. A pagoda in the centre was lit with lanterns, and it wasn’t overly busy. From there we then walked through the old town.

Narrow streets with lanterns at the front doors, to tiny houses, and stalls – what I envisioned Kyoto to be like. The shops however were all closed for the day, and no one was about – great for crowd free pictures.

Not really an eventful day, with all the travelling. But now we have a new part of Japan to explore.

Japan Adventure Day 8 – Nikko

After a chilled start we made our way through the town, to the iconic red bridge that pretty much appears in every picture for Nikko.

From there it was up hill into the woods where Buddhist temples are nestled amongst the trees. The most famous is the ‘Nikko Toshogu’ that has the carvings of three wise monkeys. One with its hands over its ears, the next over its mouth and the third over its eyes – the origin of “hear no evil, speak no evil and see no evil”.

Unfortunately we didn’t go to this temple as the queue for it went all the way down the hill!

We had an explore of the neighbouring ‘Rinnoji Daigoma-do’ temple. Three huge golden effigies of gods, stood along the main wall. You can walk around them, visiting little shrines and statues of monks and important figures in the temple’s history.

Next was the treasure room, that had more statues and portraits of shoguns. Outside this is a garden and koi pond.

After returning to town for lunch we tried for the bus to see the Chuzenji waterfalls, however the bus never arrived.

We took a walk along the river to visit a site of a temple that had been washed away by a great flood a 100 years ago.

Little statues and Cairns lined the footpath, with knitted red hats and scarfs. The purpose of these are to guide children that have passed away to the afterlife.

We continued on along the river and woods, passing warning signs that bears live in the area – we didn’t see any.

We reached a footbridge over the river, returning us to town. All the walking had given us a thirst. We stopped for a few drinks at a microbrewery before calling into a supermarket to get food and return to our digs.

Japan Adventure Day 7 – Nikko

Thankfully I had a lay in, the festivities of the Gyobar last night gave me a foggy head. I packed up my stuff ready for the trip to Nikko.

Two hours north by train of Tokyo into the countryside. We had swapped the high rise buildings for high rise mountains. Straight off the train the vibe was completely different.

Despite being in cattle class, it felt equivalent to first class back home. When the train pulled into the station everyone queued to allow the cleaners to go through each carriage before we embarked – no way that would happen back home.

Each seat had ample leg room and even a fold out foot stool. From my window I watched the city give way to rice paddy fields. This time of year is when the farmers start preparing for planting. Tractors ploughed through flooded fields, as I whizzed by.

Soon lush green mountains and forests became the backdrop, heralding our arrival into Nikko. We called into a cafe where I sampled Chiffon cake. I had the orange chiffon, a light sponge cake that had bits of the fruit baked into it.

At 1500h we checked into our Airbnb. More of a traditional style accommodation for our brief stop in Nikko. It also provided our opportunity to do some washing!

We had a relatively chilled evening, getting a few beers and food from the supermarket and cooking it at the house. A Total shift in gear from Tokyo.

Tomorrow we will be visiting the shrines which this region is best known for.

Japan Adventure Day 6 – Tokyo

This was our last day in Tokyo, and the weather wasn’t playing ball.

Umbrellas up and rain jackets on. We ran to the subway to catch the train to Azumabashi. Outside a popular miso soup bar, we queued up to fuel us for the day.

At 1130h, we took the ferry to Odaiba, seeing the city from the Sumida River. Thankfully the boat was enclosed saving us from the rain.

At Odaiba, there is shopping complex, and where I finally found the traditional Japanese tea set I’d been looking for!

We pottered around there for a while. The place was busy. Japan is about to enter a national holiday period called ‘Golden Week’. TL:DR is it’s an accumulation of bank holidays.

While browsing the shops I bumped into Godzilla!

As we left the rain intensified, it looked like a tropical storm- the wind was whipping, the rain horizontal and the umbrellas were inside out.

We took the subway to Shinjuku with the intention to go back to the Izakaya bars, but the downpour was so heavy. We opted for a beer at a bar then headed back to the hotel.

Dumping our stuff off, we ventured back out – the rain had stopped – to call in at a nearby restaurant. Then had beers at ‘Gyobar’.

It’s a hidden gem. The staff were so energetic and friendly, they made the evening. An enjoyable last night in the capital.

Highly recommend.

Japan Adventure Day 5 – Tokyo

It was a relatively chill day. In the morning we went to the fish market for breakfast. Sampling the food from the street vendors, before making our way to Niihori area to visit a bonsai museum.

The subway followed by a bus journey got us to the suburbs, where it is situated. The Shunkaen Bonsai Museum. I expected a bit more from it, like how they are grown or the history of this art.

It was just hundreds of bonsai trees on display. Might as well have been a garden centre. There were some good aesthetic trees, but I expected more.

From there we headed to the Higashi area, famous for kitchenware. I was looking for a traditional Japanese tea set, however I didn’t see any that took my fancy.

The buildings had cups and chefs built into them. An oddity for a city, that cater for specific wares.

From there we went to the Taito area for dinner. Plenty of bars were on offer in this popular district. We went to a couple sampling their sushi and beer.

A subway ride back to Ginza took us to the UniQlo store where we did a bit of clothes shopping then headed back to the hotel for a beer.

Tomorrow it is forecasted rain, so we have a boat tour on the agenda – I have confirmed, it’s an enclosed boat!