I left at dawn passing through the village following a dirt path. It was chilly, cold enough to put my jumper on. I walked with Tania talking about her life living “off grid” in Australia.
The views weren’t too great, the route passed by quarries, with Large trucks thundering by kicking up plumes of dust.
I pulled ahead and after a while the route joined a forest track leaving behind the industrial excavation and HGVs.
After 11km I reached Calzadilla de Tera for the promised cafe stop. I couldn’t find it, and while probing google maps on my phone Tania caught up.
According to the map the nearest bar was in Olleros de Tera, and with the directions from a local we proceeded to the village along an irrigation canal.
We trudged through the quiet streets, feeling drained. We had done 13km with no breaks. We pulled up to the cafe to find it’s closed on Tuesdays. There was nothing for it, we had to keep moving. According to Gronze the next place for food was Rionegro – another 14km.
I left Tania who wanted rest and continued on. The route followed a single track road to an old church being renovated before heading off into shrubland. At this point my left calf began to hurt. I couldn’t tell if it was cramp or something more. When on the Camino, you just have to grin and bear it.
The path wound through the shrubland in the shadow of a dam, before winding up a mesa to join the road that crossed it.
From there it hugged the shore. I found a shaded spot to rest and have a drink. As I was strapping my bag back on, Tania caught up with me.
Together we walked into Villar de Farfón. There were signs promising drinks – blue painted wooden signs. We reached a small Albergue with 4 beds. They had a donativo refreshments operation.
It is owned by a family of South Africans, who rebuilt it from ruins. Their only purpose to serve pilgrims. If I wasn’t on a time table, I would have stopped there.
Daniel was already here and planned to spend the night. He had come down with a cold and was taking it easy.
This is likely to be our last meeting. I wished him farewell and continued on with Tania. The blue signs erected by the South Africans took us all the way into Rionegro.
The path was much more picturesque, and a beautiful end to the day. Once at Rionegro, we joined Benita at the albergue. One that would accommodate 4 times our group.
Marcus and George soon arrived. We had some drinks at the adjacent bar then moved on to a restaurant that gave a pilgrims menu. I’ve never had a pilgrims menu like this.
It was gourmet stuff. Four course meal with wine and liquor. All for 15€. We were very spoilt. The chef had clearly been trained, just by the way he cooked and presented the dishes.
Today has shown the nature of the journey. The Camino taketh and it giveth. A long hard 28km without food and a brief cold drink with the South Africans. Then after the hardship, a full on gourmet feast.
Tomorrow I’ll be pulling a 40km. Leaving behind my new friends, fortunate for them, they’re not on a clock. I’ll now be catching the coat tails of the wave of pilgrims in front.
Great night sleep, and I owe it to my new addition for this year – an eye mask. The street light shone through the window opposite me.
A quick breakfast at 7am and I hit the road, the last to leave the albergue. I soon caught up with Tania, who I walked with for the first couple of kilometres.
The moon was full and present as the sky slowly brightened. It was a little chilly with my hands feeling slightly sore, but I resisted my gloves.
It was glorious walking, out in the middle of the Castilian countryside. At one point I was on a small plain, with golden grasslands surrounding me and trees interspersed to the distant hills. It felt like another world.
I paused to take in the silence, the faint chirp from a bird somewhere was all I could hear. It was just beautiful. I stood for 5 minutes or so, appreciating the serenity.
I continued on. A group of cycling peregrinos doing the via de la plata whizzed by, shouting ¡Buen Camino!
Around the next bend I caught them up, a chain had fallen off one of the bikes. They really tested my Spanish, but I managed to have a simple conversation.
Pressing on, the grasslands gave way to shrubs and the charred remains of trees stretched out before me. There had been a wild fire here at some point, but not recent with all the greenery about.
I took an easy pace today, I felt no need to hurry or keep to my usual stride. The tranquility of my surroundings was inviting me to slow down.
Eventually I came to the fork in the road. Taking the advice of the hospitalero, I took the left path to Villanueva de las Peras – this had a bar for a rest stop.
I ordered my first tortilla y potata of this Camino – I was fantasising about a slice all morning. I was soon joined by Tania and Lisardo.
Fuelled up I continued on, leaving the small village and back into the countryside. I reached the only serious hill of the day, skirting around numerous bodegas, now converted into small holiday homes.
Before long I was on top of a mesa following another rich red-brown dirt path for several kilometres before descending into Santa Croya, where I stopped at a bar for a drink, joining Lisardo.
I called into a little convenience store to get something for dinner – Santa Marta doesn’t have a shop nor bar, and the albergue doesn’t offer a communal meal. There wasn’t a lot on offer and I settled for a microwaveable paella. Disappointingly, there wasn’t any fresh veg to cook up anything more substantial.
A short kilometre over the river I was at Santa Marta, settling in to the donativo albergue next to the monastery.
I was asleep the instant my head hit the pillow – it had been a long day. I was out the door at 8.30am heading back to the bus stop, but my luck with the public transport hadn’t changed. There was only one bus to Granja de Moreruela, and it leaves at 4pm.
I had to bite the bullet and get a taxi – my last resort. 20 minutes later and 60€ lighter, I was in Granja.
31 hours after leaving London! It took me less time to get to Japan!
Thankfully for the next 14 days I won’t be having to rely on wheeled transport, just my two feet.
Setting off it was overcast and a cool breeze made it perfect for walking. Within minutes I was in the Castilian countryside. Red-brown dirt and rolling golden plains as far as the eye can see – it brought me right back to the meseta on the Francés.
I had the whole Camino to myself, having begun so late, but I was loving it. A welcomed peace from the previous 31hours of chaos.
No sound but the wind and songbirds chirping amongst the trees – so good to back on the Camino!
In the distance I could see a lone pilgrim making his way along the long straight dirt path in front. I had a quick pace knowing I had 25km to do today, with the late start.
I soon caught him up. Lisardo had been walking since April following the Lavante, which starts in Valencia! He is heading for Tabara, with a buen Camino, I said I’ll see him there.
The route leads to the Rio Esla where you cross a narrow bridge. It felt precarious, there wasn’t a lot of room if you came across a car. Luckily I didn’t meet one – perhaps it’s changing?
Once on the other side it follows the cliff face along the banks that involved a tiny bit of scrambling. Then came the only hill of the day, a short climb but nothing too strenuous.
From there the trail winds through wild grass lands, before reaching agricultural fields. Long straight dirt paths stretched to the horizon. Typical of the pictures you see for the Camino.
After 18km without a stop I reached the small village of Faramontanos de Tábara. I stopped for a quick snack from my rucksack and continued on. As I was leaving a met Lorenzo from Italy. He could only speak Italian and Spanish, so I put my pigeon Spanish to the test.
He is walking the Via de la Plata and started in Seville at the beginning of August. Soon we came up to one of his friends, Daniel from Serbia – he could speak English. Making full use of google translate we made our way into Tábara, finishing the day at the Donitvo Albergue.
There I met Benita from Germany and Tania from Australia. Benita had started in Zamora and Tania in Salamanca.
Once showered and pilgrim chores done, I wondered back into the town for a drink and an empanada.
At 8pm we all sat down for a communal meal, gazpacho followed by rice and veg. The hospitalero gave us advice for the next stage before opening a box that we each picked a card from.
Mine said “When we say the Camino is like our own life, we should say that our life is like the Camino, since our life is an ongoing pilgrimage”
Not the ideal start to this years Camino. The train down to Gatwick was running 20mins late but with no rush to be at the accommodation I’d booked, I just went with the flow.
I had booked an en-suite in a guest house, 20 min walk from the airport. I dumped my stuff and went into Horley, the little town nearby for a pint. I stopped at a lively pub for one before moving onto the more rustic pub ‘Ye Olde Six Bells’
A couple of drinks and some food I returned to my digs as it would be a 2.30am start.
I made my way through the dark streets, none of the lamps were on – luckily I had my head torch. Soon I was at the airport checking in my backpack, to find my flight had been delayed by 2 hours!
This was a spanner in the works. This meant I wouldn’t be able to get the train I planned for, that would allow me to get into Zamora before the last bus to Granja de Moreruela – the starting point of the Sanabrés.
It was a long 4 hours waiting around in the terminal. The plane didn’t take off until 8.30am – 2.5 hours behind!
Once through border control, I beelined to the train station to find all the later trains were full. I felt like I was in ‘Race Across the World’, changing my plans on the fly.
I tried the bus companies, and there was only space available on the 6.45pm one. This meant I’d get into Zamora at 10.15pm – defo will miss the bus to Granja.
Being that late to arrive, no albergue will accept me, which meant I had to fork out for a hotel room. On the plus side I now had the afternoon in Madrid.
I took a stroll around the ‘Parque de El Retiro’. Soaking in the sun, the many fountains and monuments. I grabbed a cold drink from a stall and found a shaded bench.
I then moved on towards the bus station calling into a supermarket for some food while I wait. Stopping at a small park near the station to eat.
Keeping with the theme, the bus was an hour late, meaning I arrived in Zamora 11.20pm way after Check-in.
Luckily the hotel gave me the door code so I could check myself in. It had been a long day.
For a change this year, we decided to spend a week in Hawkshead rather than Keswick – also we’ve gone Monday to Monday this time.
The M6 was flowing and after a leisurely drive up we got to Windermere, at 1300h we stocked up at the supermarket before moving on to Hawkshead.
Just after 1500h we arrived at the lodge. The sun was out and little clouds dotted the sky. With rain forecast for the week, we made the most of the sunshine, and set off to climb Latterbarrow before dinner.
An easy walk along quiet country lanes to the footpath up the small hill, that wasn’t demanding – a nice warm up for the week. At the top we reached the cairn marking the summit and paused for selfies. Although not a Wainwright it still gave views of Ambleside and lake Windermere.
We returned to Hawkshead to have a quick post walk pint at the Queens Head, before returning to the lodge for tacos and a dip in the hot tub.
Day Two
It had rained heavily throughout the night leaving the roads and fields flooded. According to the forecast, it is meant to be the best of the week.
To bag a Wainwright, Pete, Joe and I set off for Black Crag – the nearest to Hawkshead. Just after 1000h we ventured out under threatening skies.
We started on quiet single lanes, slowly ascending towards Iron Keld Plantation – a small forested area below Black Fell. We were subjected to small light showers, but nothing worth donning the waterproofs for.
We dodged the puddles and at one point a herd of cows being moved to a farmers field. As we began our ascent of Black Crag the wind picked up.
Emerging from the tree line, up the fell we reached the summit cairn. Holding on to our hats, we got the summit selfie then began our descent to the Drunken Duck Inn.
Following forest paths, the wind dropped allowing me to practice with my new drone – something I want to take on my Caminos.
The path reached a small road to the pub, where we stopped for lunch and a pint – I had the lentil and carrot soup.
It was an hours walk back to the lodge along gravel forest paths and quiet lanes. That’s another Wainwright ticked off, and I was ticked as well.
Behind my left knee, the little blighter had attached itself. I had opted for shorts, and at some point I had brushed across a plant where this little vampire awaited its chance.
It was funny, as I was walking, I recalled conversations I had on the Norte last year. Many pilgrims commented on me wearing shorts all the time, and if I was worried about ticks with the risk of Lyme disease – I wasn’t.
With a pull of a pair of tweezers, I was free of the little blood sucker. Pete and Joe were quite smug having worn trousers.
We got showered and changed, ready to head into Ambleside for food and the cinema. We watched the ‘Salt Path’ featuring the 600mile coastal walk around Cornwall.
Back at the lodge we were preparing for a dip in the hot tub, when shouts of “Tick” from both Joe and Pete reverberated through the lodge. They both had them munching on their legs! – so much for trousers!
My tweezer skills were back in action.
Day Three
Heavy rain and hail showers greeted us between sunny spells in the morning, making it risky of miserable walking on some high peaks. We opted for plan B, a day in Windermere.
A bus ride took us to the train station where we ascended Orrest Head. This small hill overlooking the lake. Here is where it all began for Alfred – the birth of the Wainwrights.
He had taken a day trip as child with his parents and climbed to the view point on top. In awe of the landscape, it inspired him to walk every peak in the Lake District.
From there we had lunch in the town before catching the bus to Ambleside. After a mooch around the outdoor shops – I got myself a new waterproof coat for the Camino. We had our traditional crazy golf game.
On a course we’ve never played on, it could be anyone’s game – it was my mums.
Back to the lodge for a quick cuppa, then it was back out to the Queen’s Head where we had booked a table for dinner.
Then it was a ghost tour of Hawkshead. We met outside the ‘Kittchen’, a cat themed bar that rescues cats. The guide dressed in Victorian garb complete with a top hat, took us around the village.
Telling stories of ghostly dogs, boggles, witchcraft and serial killers. He was very entertaining, inviting audience participation – I played the serial killer, Thomas Lancaster. His preferred method of dispatch being poisoned figs. He murdered at least 13 people!
We returned to the lodge, ending the evening with a dip in the hot top while the rain poured down – it even hailed for a bit!
Day Four
The rain continued into the morning. We hopped on to the bus bound to Coniston, winding around the narrow country lanes.
When we arrived the sun was trying to break through but the clouds held fast. We went down to the lake and grabbed breakfast at the cafe on the shore.
The rain poured to the delight of the ducks waddling about the stony beach. With full bellies, the downpour stopped and as we Made our way back to the village centre, the sun finally made a showing!
We had a look at Donald Campbell’s grave, the pilot of the Bluebird speed boat that crashed in 1967, trying to get the water speed record. His body wasn’t recovered until 2001.
A quick pint at the Crown, then we went to the Ruskin Museum to see the restored Bluebird wreckage. While there we met his daughter Gina. There are other displays about the life of John Ruskin; a scholar and teacher.
Even one about local war hero James Hewitson who fought in the trenches in WW1. He had been injured four times and went back to the front lines after each recovery – he was awarded the Victoria Cross.
Bus ride back to Hawkshead followed where we had a few drinks in the village, before returning to the lodge for a quiet evening in, playing board games.
Day Five
It hammered down all night but the morning brought sunshine. We took a walk to Wray Castle across the fields.
The route wasn’t strenuous, a nice stroll over rolling hills. Past flocks of sheep and lambs. I even got to practice more with my drone.
After 5km we got to the castle. It’s not a real one, it was built to mimic one. Now owned by the national trust – unfortunately it’s under renovation inside, so we couldn’t have a look round. We stopped for lunch at the cafe then returned back to Hawkshead.
Covering 11km today, we deserved a post walk beer at the Red Lion Inn. It was back to the lodge for a dip in the hot tub before, chippy Friday.
The old pub, now chip shop ‘The Sun’ was our eatery for the night. It was a chilled evening back at the lodge.
Day Six
As per form, it rained throughout the night and was still pouring when we got up. We headed to Ambleside for a very wet Parkrun – three laps around Rothay Park.
It was packed and there were choke points in the path, forcing you into single file to avoid a head on collision with the faster runners.
With plenty of muddy puddles to splash through, I enjoyed myself – despite getting one of my slower times.
Cold and damp, we opted to return to the lodge to shower and change, rather than get a post run breakfast.
Once dried off we caught the bus back into Ambleside for lunch then walked up to Stockghyll Force – a series of waterfalls that flow into the village.
We grabbed a beer at the ‘Force’ cafe at the top, boasting views down the lake and Black Fell just below the clouds – Coniston Old Man was fully enveloped.
We returned to Hawkshead relaxing for a couple of hours before heading to the Red Lion, for dinner and the pub quiz. We didn’t do too bad, coming 4th.
Day Seven
There was only light rain this time and it was relatively dry compared to the rest of this adventure. Pete, Elina and I jumped in the car to Grisedale Forest leaving my mum and Joe to go to Beatrix Potter‘s house at hill top.
We took the walk up to Carron Crag, the highest point in the forest. From the visitor centre the route follows a wide gravel path upwards. Cyclists whizzed past until the footpath bifurcates up a steep rocky section.
It wound up eventually joining another wide gravel path. We had to pause for a furry caterpillar crossing the road, then made the last stint to the summit.
We got our selfies at the trig point, then descended, passing wooden sculptures as we made our way back to the visitor centre in time for lunch.
After food we took a quick walk to see the ‘Go Ape’ obstacle course, watching people zip line through the trees. We returned to the lodge for a soak in the hot tub before dinner.
For the last night in Hawkshead, we had a drink in the Queens Head, then played a board game back at the lodge. Monday is a day of travelling, so we didn’t want a heavy night.
The week passed too quickly, time flies when you’re having fun.
Rain was forecasted for 1400h, so we had to get as much outdoor stuff done asap.
Our destination was Nara, another former capital. During the height of Buddhism in Japan, it was the seat of power. The city is renowned for its temples and the bowing deers.
Within the Nara national park, you walk among the temples, woods and Sika deer. For 200¥ you can buy a stack of crackers to feed them. They bow to you and you bow back and give them the treat.
However if you don’t give them a treat or you are crowded by them, they’ll give you a nip. Pete and Ellina experienced that, however all I had, was them licking my arm.
We then passed through the largest temple gate in Japan, Nandiamon. Two 8 metre wooden sculptures of gods flank each side, said to ward off evil spirits.
We then toured the Isui-en gardens. An estate for tea ceremonies. Traditional Japanese tea houses looked out onto the picturesque gardens.
At this point it started to rain, we headed back to Nara centre for lunch then made our way back to Kyoto.
Back in the city we went up the Kyoto tower, just a little disappointed it was raining as it clouded the views.
We had a mooch around Nishiki market having some dinner and drinks. It wasn’t a late one, back at the hotel for 2030h. It’s an early start tomorrow to get the bullet train back to Tokyo to catch our flight back to Blighty.
A great day to end this amazing trip. The deers were the best!
There is an exhibition at the Kyoto Museum about Japanese art throughout its history. Interesting to see that the style took influence from China and Asia before the western techniques arrived.
It also showed how Buddhism made a huge impact in developing this unique style. There were statues of Buddha and influential monks. One shows the monk opening up his chest to review Buddha within.
From there we headed to Uji, known for sencha and matcha tea. There is a museum showing how the tea is made, with the old machines on display.
We had a look around the tea shops in the area before heading back to Kyoto for dinner. I found a Japanese curry house tucked down a small alleyway, while Pete and Ellina went for Kobe beef.
Afterwards we met up for drinks at a couple bars before heading back to the hotel.
No rain insight when we left the hotel, and the sun was out.
We got the rapid train for Osaka, and 30min later it pulled into the Umeda station. Having breakfast at a soup bar (it was 1000h by this point) we got ready for the day.
First on the agenda was the Osaka Castle. The ornate and imposing building, sits on a hill with a maze of fortifications and moats below.
Walking through them, you can see it’s designed to slow and tire attacking forces, with plenty of walls for archers to snipe from.
For lunch we headed to the Soemoncho area. It is very colourful, with the shops and eateries adorned with seafood figures and such.
Finding a tiny restaurant down an alley – the best places always off the beaten path – I had kimchi and cheese okonommiyaki.
It’s like a pasta bake, but without the pasta, but I loved it. We then went to the ferris wheel at a Don Quixote store – this one’s odd as is elliptical.
Surviving the ride, we deserved a drink at a local craft bar before dinner at a ramen restaurant. It was then time to get the train back to Kyoto.
It rained throughout the night and the day, a part from a short break around 1600h, it was a wet one today.
We jumped on the train to Arashiyama district of Kyoto, known for its bamboo forests and the last operating tram line in the city.
First stop was the Yusai-Tei gallery. A traditional Japanese style house tucked away within a forest that had rooms that gave different perspectives of the surrounding woods using reflections off surfaces.
From there we visited the bamboo forest that was packed – it had been made popular on instagram. I still managed to get some pictures though.
After some Japanese curry we got the last operating tram in Kyoto back towards the market and shopping area.
We had a couple of drinks and a snack then made our way back to the hotel to dump our stuff and go to a nearby restaurant.
The rain had picked up and the restaurants were closed, not wanting to venture too far with the rain, we had a 7Eleven dinner and ate back at the hotel.
It was cold this morning, there was no central heating in the house, only gas heaters in the lounge, and utility room.
We headed straight to the train station to get back to Tokyo for the bullet train to Kyoto. It was far warmer in the capital.
We jumped on the train and sped south. Two hours later, we were in the old capital. We booked into the hotel and went straight out to find the old town and get some food.
We called into a restaurant on the edge of the old town, before going to the Yasaka shrine. A pagoda in the centre was lit with lanterns, and it wasn’t overly busy. From there we then walked through the old town.
Narrow streets with lanterns at the front doors, to tiny houses, and stalls – what I envisioned Kyoto to be like. The shops however were all closed for the day, and no one was about – great for crowd free pictures.
Not really an eventful day, with all the travelling. But now we have a new part of Japan to explore.
Stu's Camino 