The day was longer than intended with a mix of Sun and rain, road and forest paths. Fairly easy walk and mostly flat.

I joined Judyta for breakfast before starting the day – it had gone 0900h, certainly the latest start on this Camino. I realised I had left my water bottle in the albergue, after making a slight detour back I was on the road.

I walked with an Australian called Malcolm. He had been walking since Ribadeo and I was the first native English speaker he had met.

The kilometres flew by. The route had a mixture of country road and soft forest paths with a couple of bridge crossings.

After a quick break A Lamela, it began to rain. We joined Elliot and Samual over the next 5km or so into Baamonde – Samual and Malcolm are stopping here. Once the rest of the gang arrived we had dinner together.

We still had 14km to cover and it was 1420h when we had finished our food, thankfully the Sun was out now. From here you follow the main road for a couple of kilometres passing the 100km marker.

At the small San Alberte Church, nestled amongst the trees, the path ascends through a forest joining a winding country road through tiny hamlets.

Elliot and I pulled head having a similar pace. Having good company the kilometres dropped away. The original plan was to stop at Miraz, but at 1730h we were still walking, being late in the day, we stopped at A Logoa.

A great little albergue with pilgrims menu. The owner has to be the most friendly and accommodating of all the hospitalarios I’ve met in the Norte – very worth the stop.

The rain had been falling during the night and into the morning. Not wanting to spend the entire day in ponchos, we all decided to take a short day and head to Vilalba.

We took our time over breakfast in hope that the rain would stop – it didn’t. Ponchos on and into the drizzle we ventured. Straight on to a forest path, all dark and moody.

Samual and I edged ahead of the group and caught Judyta up. The three of us walked together for a while, chatting about our plans when we get to Santiago and beyond.

Not much scenery today as it was masked by the rain or in woodlands. But being with good company the wet kilometres flew by.

We arrived in Vilalba just after 1200h, hungry and drenched. We grabbed a drink in a cafe and a pincho de Tortilla y Potata – which really was a small portion, just more than a mouthful!

Once booked into the albergue, more familiar faces arrived Yorst and Ouni. After a quick trip to the supermarket for dinner, Elliot wanted to watch the football, so we made our way to a sports bar, then met up with few more of my Camino pals for food.

Sometimes taking the longer route pays off, and it did today. Out of my walking pals, only two of us took the complimentary alternative way – 5 km more!

It was dry to start with, with a great sunrise as I made my way up the valley. Some of the best views since entering Galicia.

The way is on a very little used road, gently ascending along one side of the valley. Ahead the cloud level was getting closer and at the point it leaves the road on to a soft gravel path, the ascent quickly increases.

After passing what looks like a kiln, now over grown with vegetation, the path zigzags up to the head of the valley; into cloud.

The temperature dropped, prompting me to put my jumper on, but not wet enough for the poncho. A slow decline through farmland took me into Gontán. At the cafe, Samual and Karel were already there, and shortly after we were joined by the rest of the gang.

It was here I found they had taken the short cut, and followed the main route. Swapping stories, they had spent most of the walk in the cloud – they were looking a bit damp.

With 5km to go, we called into a Spar for snacks and made our way to the albergue. I walked the last bit with Samual, another Camino veteran.

The albergue has rustic vibe with communal meal. Very chilled out evening with good company, familiar faces and new.

Considering this was meant to be a hard day, it really wasn’t despite it being 30km. Perfect weather conditions and fantastic scenery made it a pleasant day.

Breakfast was at 0800h, so it was a very late start, especially for a 30km day. It had rained during the night to refresh the air and the skies were clear when I began the day.

The route slowly ascends giving better views of the Galician region with every step. Tree covered mountains and green fields filled the valleys. Until ‘A Ponte de Arante’ I walked with Judyta, who is celebrating her birthday today – great way to spend it on a Camino!

The little chapel to the Virgin Mary at the hamlet had centuries old drawings on the walls that have been exposed by removing the plaster. Some were a bit odd, there was a skeleton archer?!

Elliot had caught us up and from here it was the biggest ascent of the day, which again was a walk in the park. Elliot and I pulled head with a good pace.

The mixture of country roads and soft gravel forest paths continued, around 10km in, we were getting hungry, but all the bars were shut or the kitchen was closed. After a quick drink at San Xusto we continued onto Lourenzá, a small town that should have amenities – but their kitchens were closed!

With 7km to go I pulled on ahead wanting to get to Mondoñedo asap. It was a pleasant walk through the Galician countryside in glorious sunshine but without the heat.

I arrived into town to find there is a horse fair, one of the oldest in Spain. Outside the cathedral a procession of horses herded into to the square. A huge crowd had gathered to see the show, and the riders were interviewed.

Before the crowd the dispersed I joined my fellow peregrinos for a meal. Samual, John, Elliot, Judyta and Karel from the Czech Republic – he was in the albergue last night.

With full bellies we returned to the albergue. Tomorrow we’re doing a stage and a bit to stop an albergue that is highly recommended – but there is a bit of a hill to conquer first.

If it wasn’t for the moody weather, it would have been a third day of uninspiring scenery. The clouds gave the landscape a certain gravitas.

Another short day thus another late start. There was a light drizzle when I set off that occasionally turned into fleeting showers. The route follows the beach out of town then through farmland.

There was a certain bleakness to the landscape enhanced by the passing rain clouds clinging to the hills. The poncho was on and off, but ahead of me were sunny skies above Ribadeo.

I eventually came the bridge spanning the estuary between Asturias and Galicia. With only a metal wired wall separating the footpath from the highway, I made the crossing.

Galicia the last region of the journey has now been reached. With one last look back at Asturias and the sea, I entered Ribadeo.

The route now turns inland towards Santiago, leaving the coast. Already the landscape has changed, as the Galician hills await. It may sound weird, but I instantly felt lighter entering this region, almost like home.

I stopped for a bite to eat at a cafe; John and Judyta shortly joined and we continued the last 6km, steadily up hill into the forested Galician countryside.

The rain returned with showers, but we didn’t get too wet. Vilela, is a small collection of houses with the albergue being the local bar and restaurant – it even has a swimming pool, although it’s a little too cold for me.

The same gang from last night are here, with a few new faces in the dormitory. Tomorrow is a 30km with a large-ish hill off the bat.

Today had been a low energy day with lacklustre views. The consolation was that it was overcast, keeping me from baking in the Sun.

It was a very late start by Camino standards this morning, it was closer to 0900h and sunrise had been and gone. I walked with Judyta, as route ascends out of town.

The scenery was much the same as yesterday, country roads surrounded by cornfields and large agricultural businesses blotted the landscape – it also followed the main road.

The lack of scenery and noise from the road prompted me to search for my earphones, however I seemed to have misplaced them.

We stopped for a drink at a roadside bar then continued on into La Caridad. I wanted a tortilla y potata however, Judyta wasn’t hungry and carried on.

I grabbed the sello from the church; one of the few I’ve seen on this route that has been open and has a stamp!

The scenery didn’t change until finally reaching Tapia, a small coastal town. The Albergue is almost on the beach however check in is 1530h. With an hour and a half to kill, I went to the harbour for a drink at a bar.

Later I met up for dinner with Elliot, Samuel, Judyta and John. We’re all in the same albergue and heading to the same destination tomorrow.

Mostly a straight forward day past cornfields, the only difficulty was the heat, and very little shade.

I left just before sunrise and caught a great view of a tiny hamlet nestled in a valley, the sky a pastel blue and light pink clouds.

A short section through woodland followed, then it was country road walking. Corn rows towered above me. After 10km I reached Luarca.

A pretty port town that leads from the cliff tops to the estuary. Here two pilgrims I had met in San Martin had just finished breakfast, so I joined them into the town. However I had to get some supplies.

It was a steep ascent up the other side then back into the countryside. The Sun was fully out now and my surrounds being open farmland, there was no shade – not even from a brief climb through an eucalyptus wood,

I continued on, stopping briefly for a drink at Villapedre, and by 1530h I was at my destination. A quick shower and I went in search of a bar. In town I met Judyta who I shared the communal meal with way back in Santillana.

I had a couple of drinks with her before finding something to eat. The next stage is a short 20km on advice from the hospitario. The stage after Ribadeo is meant to be difficult – the Galician mountains are coming!

It has been a fun day on the route with many streams to cross, creating a challenge to not get your feet wet.

Just before 0800h I was making my way through a small woodland with my head torch on, as the sun was rising. A bit of road walking into Albuerne then the fun began.

The way follows the undulations of the coast, dropping down through woodlands on muddy footpaths to the bottom, where a stream would be running to the sea.

Crossing became a fun puzzle, to get to the other bank without plunging your boot into the water. Then it is a steep ascent up the other side where you walk through a hamlet, then repeat the process – 5 more times!

Each crossing had a different solution. Some rock hoping, balancing on fallen trees or a run and jump! I managed to keep my feet dry.

Most places are still closed due to the national holiday, I managed to get a drink in Santa Marina, but all the other places were closed until Cadavedo.

I was wanting some food, but the kitchens were closed, and drinks only being served. I slowly made my way to Querúas as Gronze states a restaurant is there. However I discovered it has closed down. The albergue doesn’t open until 1530h; all I could do is cool off in the shade for an hour.

The set menu is on the cards in the albergue. It is probably the most modern one I have stopped in on the Norte so far.

Today swapped the industrial hellscape for eucalyptus forests. Clean air and cool shade.

There was talk around the dinner table last night that it was going to be a very hilly stage, but they weren’t that bad for a Basque Country battle hardened pilgrim.

After leaving San Martin, it was up into woodlands around Asturias airport. It was easy going until it passes forestry work. The vehicles had churned up the path causing deep ruts filled with mud. It took some careful route planning to navigate these obstacles.

After successfully traversing the mud bath relatively cleanly, I entered Soto del Barco where I stopped for second breakfast at the Parador (I don’t think it was the official chain).

From there it was down to the estuary, over a bridge with no room to walk between the crash barrier and railings, then up into Muros de Nalón, which is the stage end. – but a 17km day is too short for me.

Back into woodland took me up to El Pito and some little villages. I passed a few peregrinos, but I didn’t recognise any of them.

After dropping down to sea level, it was time to tackle the biggest ascent of the day, a mere 150m – nothing, although the sun was out in full force.

After tackling another forestry work puzzle I arrived into Soto de Luina, grabbing a bed at the municipal albergue, then relaxed at a bar. There is a Spanish holiday this weekend, so I’ve been told, so most places are closed.

Waiting at then only bar open, familiar faces arrived, Elliot, Yorst and Connie. I have caught up with those I had been walking with from the start!