After getting out of bed at 9.30am, a very long lie in. We tried to book the room again for another day, however the hotel was full. We managed to get into another which meant hanging around until 3pm.
We met up with Ignacio from Venezuela for a breakfast; while on the way we found Dominick from Germany wandering the streets also looking for something to eat, so we invited him along.
After food Ignacio and Dominick left just as Dirk arrived by bus from Fisterra. Shortly afterwards Marcus and Arnica also joined us. All that was missing was Brian; we sent him some messages with our love.
At 3pm we booked into the hotel then went for food. We all met up again at 8.30pm for drinks and tapas. We caught up with friends we had made over the last 5 weeks, sharing our experiences of this magical journey. A lovely evening was had by all.
We started our last 10km into Santiago once the sun was up and finishing off last night’s pizza. We took our picture at the 10km marker before continuing. We mainly walked in silence just in our own thoughts.
It wasn’t long before we entered the outskirts of Santiago. We had missed the Monte do Gozo sculptures. We were right on top of the cathedral when we first saw it’s towers. The path doesn’t pass through the view point; it is a little detour around the 5km mark that we missed.
We arrived in the square outside congratulating each other. There were other pilgrims I had met along journey here also! Another bit of Camino Magic.
We took some pictures before heading to the pilgrims office to get our compostelas. They have a ticket system, so once you get a number, you then check online for your turn.
It is written in Latin hence the odd spelling of my name. Once that was in hand, it was time to celebrate.
We made it!
Tomb of St. JamesBotofumerioRope for the Botofumerio
At 6pm we queued for the pilgrims mass that starts at 7.30pm. Even then we were not first in line! We got in and picked a pew waiting patiently for mass to begin.
This was an experience with it all in Spanish and the angelic voice of the solo lady choir made it memorable. But the Camino still hadn’t finished it’s magic.
Five men dressed in red robes came out and each grabbed a rope for the Botofumerio. I couldn’t believe my luck. All the rumours about it were false, it wasn’t swinging every Friday or each day at noon, there is no guarantee.
This was just a magical moment, a fantastic finale to what has been journey I cannot begin to adequately describe.
We all left mass stunned and speechless, as we made our way to a tapas bar. Food and drink was in order. We celebrated to the early hours.
It was a cold and misty morning when we set off. The headtorches were on and the pace was fast to warm up. Our challenge for today was to get as many stamps as possible, as our albergue will be 10km short of Santiago.
We checked every church on the way, stopped for multiple breakfasts. The sun was doing it’s best to burn off the mist and it finally succeeded as we arrived in Arzua.
Up to this point the route had been undulating with some vicious inclines. However once out of Arzua it was easy going.
As we were going along one section four pilgrims on horseback passed us. They were all abreast taking the full width of the path. I stepped onto the banking over a ditch. Big mistake, I pulled something. I had a sharp pain behind the knee and my hamstring was tight.
At the next cafe we stopped so I could apply the kinesiology tape and start my pain medication by having a beer.
We continued on for about 100m and I was still suffering, so I had to stop for another beer. It wasn’t the fact we came across a cafe that brews their own beer and it was decorated with sculptures made of empty bottles.
After making friends with two dogs, we continued on. (The pain was easing, so my treatment was working) about 1km on Sandra said she needed the toilet, so we had to stop for another beer.
While we were here, JP was not far behind so we continued to the next bar and stopped for another glass of pain medication so he could catch up!
At this point we were still 18km short of Lavacolla and it was 4pm! Luckily my leg wasn’t hurting anymore so we picked up the pace.
The light was fading as we skirted around Santiago airport and it was headtorches again as we arrived at our albergue. We ordered a pizza delivery before retiring for the night.
We had heard that somewhere between Portomarin and Melide you can get a Wax stamp. One source said it is from a deaf priest another from a one legged man who sells T-Shirts.
Our task today was get this coveted stamp and as from the above, it was going to be challenging.
We had a late start and caught breakfast at the albergue before heading into the mist. The route followed tree lined paths, through villages and farmland. The weather wouldn’t make up it’s mind. We kept having to stop to put on the ponchos, jumpers then taken them off.
We got to Palas de Rei without seeing any deaf priest or a one legged man. We stopped for second breakfast then continued our hunt.
The WhatsApp group dinged, Dirk had made it Santiago! But then we got some bad news. Brian had been hospitalised due to an infection in his knee requiring surgery. It was gutting, his walk cut short, 72km from Santiago. We wished him well and he replied “It’s always about the journey and not the destination with the friends you meet along The Way.”
We continued feeling a little glum. We passed through a small village called Leboreiro, that had a shop selling T-shirts, by two ladies. Although there was no one legged man in sight, we stepped in.
They had the wax stamp!!!!!
We had a skip in our step all the way to Melide. Melide is famous for it’s Octopus, Sandra and I met up with JP from France to try this delicacy.
I hung around the albergue waiting for Sandra to catch up. She had set off from Sarria in the early hours. By 11am she had made to Vilacha! It was great to meet up as we last saw each other in Santo Domingo!
Her feet had not been troubling her, meaning she covered 30+km days to catch up. We had lunch in the restaurant at Vilacha before heading to our target for the day.
We crossed the river into Portomarin that presented stunning views of the vast river. After a quick rest stop at a bar we headed to Vendas.
We hadn’t booked ahead but as this wasn’t a stage end, I doubt we would have trouble getting a bed. I was right. The path out of Portomarin was a long drawn out incline, passing through woodlands and Cumbrian countryside.
We arrived in Ventas where Duane from America, who I last saw in Leon had also booked into three albergue. We had a drink then later we and some new faces all had a meal/party. All St. Jean-ers!
There is definitely are fiesta atmosphere on the road now, as we approach Santiago.
It was good to be walking again. I set off at 7.20am with my headtorch on due to the cloud cover blocking out the moonlight. The route today was country paths, a refreshing change from the roads.
It’s amazing how rejuvenated you feel after a rest day. I was racing past the peregrinos. I entered a wooded section and in the torchlight I could see two green eyes looking at me and weird bagpipe music piercing the darkness.
It was a dog sitting in the middle of the path, next to him was donativo stall. I picked up a banana and a stamp. After about 2 miles I stopped for breakfast. At this point it began to rain on and off.
The scenery reminded me of Cumbria, dry stone walls, fields of cattle and the rain. I passed through little hamlets and farmyards. About 15km in I stopped for a drink. George from Cyprus popped his head in the cafe looking for a bite to eat. I had met him in Fonfria.
I walked with him to Vilacha where we stopped for lunch. We passed the 100k mark however due a diversion I couldn’t get a picture with the iconic milestone.
After lunch George moved on so I tried Casa Banderas, the albergue Richard recommended the day before. I rang the bell and Dominique, the proprietor answered. I said “Richard sent me and that you may have room?”
There was! I booked in. It is a lovely, homely albergue with flags decorating the yard (Casa Banderas means house of flags). Dominique and her husband Ray own the albergue. They couldn’t be better hosts, welcoming, very friendly and making me feel right at home. Shortly after Arnica arrived; she too was impressed!
This is definitely a must stop! Later a familiar face arrived, Dominick from Germany and s few new faces booked in. At 7pm we all had a meal with proprietors. A true Camino family experience.
I left the albergue with Dirk and Brian to have breakfast. They are moving on and it was hard not to continue with them. After finishing up we said our goodbyes; chances are we will see each other again. This is a trait the Camino has.
I walked down to the river for a bit then sat on a wall watching the pilgrims set off for the day. You can tell the difference between the veterans and the newbies by their walk.
One group were skipping up the hill filming themselves. I doubt they’d be doing that in a day or two.
It was really hard to resist the temptation to walk with them, so I went for an explore. I sat at a cafe with a drink when I was joined by two gentlemen from England.
Robin had been walking since St. Jean and his friend Tim has joined him at Sarria. They are due to walk tomorrow. At 11am I booked into my accomodation and sat outside, when Tim and Robin walked in.
We had a few beers and we were joined by another fellow Brit, Richard. He had done the Camino to Santiago, didn’t want it to end, so he has brought a donativo albergue! He’s picking up the keys in a few days!
Robin, Richard, me and Tim
After a siesta, I met up with Arnica, Ada and Josh for dinner along with the British contingent I met today. It was in a great tapas bar, ‘A Travesia Dos Soños’. All in all, an enjoyable rest day with great company.
There was cloud cover as we left into the darkness at 7.30am. I had to use the headtorches as the path had loose stones causing a trip hazard.
We were still high up and as we rounded a corner, dawn was breaking giving a wonderful view of the mountains range and valleys. Mist hovered over some of them. I had to pause to admire the view.
The path gradually descended into Triacastela. My phone pinged and it was Brian. He was grounded in Samos as his laundry was stuck in a broken washing machine. Being a Saturday there was no one on hand to sort it.
We were 9km out of Samos so we picked up the pace to catch up and have lunch with him. The route briefly ffollowed the main road winding through the valley before turning on to a country footpath, through woods and farmland.
It passed through hamlets with buildings that looked like they were barely standing. The waymarkers are now more frequent, counting down the distance to Santiago. They are acting as a reminder that I am on the late stages of the Camino.
We caught sight of Samos nestled in a valley and made our way down. We could hear a brass band playing, surely Brian hadn’t put on a fanfare for us!?
As we crossed the bridge into Samos, Brian shouts “Stuart” with his arms in the air. I reciprocated. It was good to see him. We sat at a cafe with a drink, as the marching band came down the street.
Not sure what it was in aid of, I just put it down to it being in Spain. Dirk had a look at the washing machine, he inserted some more coins and unlocked!
Now the clothes were now liberated the three of us had a meal at a restaurant. We caught up on our Camino adventures before heading on to Sarria.
The route was very much the same and just as we entered Sarria it began to rain. We found an albergue for the night. After a shower we headed to a pizzaria.
Sunday I’m planning on a rest day, I’m not ready to race into Santiago, plus my left leg was a little sore yesterday, I think a day off is due.
The weather forecast was rain and it was correct. Soon after starting the day the ponchos were out.
The way followed a road that was once the main route through the valleys, before they built flyovers that criss-crossed overhead, spoiling what would be a very scenic section.
We stopped at a panderia at Vega de Valcarce where I had a slice of banana cake. From here the scenery improved as we began the ascent of O Cebreiro. The second most difficult incline next to the Pyrenees.
This section in the guide starts at Vega and is only 12km long to the top, however we started in Trabadelo and ended in Fonfria, 31km! Hardcore pilgrims now!
The ascent was tough until La Faba passing through woodlands heavily covered with lichen. From La Faba to La Laguna it was a lot easier, presenting views of the valley below.
As I entered La Laguna, I heard a voice shout “I recognise that hat!” It was Marcus! Our paths met up, as is a common feature with the Camino.
We walked into O Cebreiro through the clouds passing into the final region of Galicia. We had lunch together, getting one of the best stamps on the journey so far.
I would have liked to stop here but I had tried booking a bed the day before and it was all full. By this time, the sun had chased the clouds away giving a pleasant trip into Fonfria.
We hit then road about 7.30 with route taking us through parks and suburban roads; it was like a rabbit warren, I totally lost my sense of direction, but I had full faith in the yellow arrows that are present on curbs, lampposts, walls and road signs.
They led us out following a quiet road through small but uninteresting villages before it followed a highway. We called into a wine museum as the Bierzo area is another wine region. There were plenty of vineyards and I couldn’t help myself, I had to try a grape. It was so sweet, nothing like you get back home.
We briefly left the main road, thankfully as there were some hairy moments. The way passed more vineyards where the harvest was under way. We eventually ended up in Villafranca del Bierzo, the stopping point for Arnica; me and Dirk still had another 8km to go.
Villafranca
The route out of Villafranca followed the roadside through a valley, again not providing much to look at. We arrived at our albergue just after 5. Time for a pint.
Stu's Camino 