Although it was a short day, it felt like it was a long walk. The very early dinner of only tapas and nowhere for breakfast until we reached Fisterra, meant we were running on empty.

As it was a short day, we had a lay in, setting the alarm for 0700h. 30mins later we were out the door straight on to a hill that was fairly steep.

The Galician coast has numerous high ridges that form peninsulas. Corcubion sits on one side of one and the route crosses over into Estorde, where it follows the coast to the opposing peninsula where Faro de Fisterra sits.

Once at the top of the ridge, we could see Fisterra lighthouse in the distance; barely visible in the predawn light. As we came into Estorde the dawn sky was awash with morning colours.

We hoped to stop for breakfast here but everywhere was closed, seems places also take Tuesdays off!

We continued on, through Sardineira, up and over a small wooded hill then followed the coast into Fisterra. We were flagging a little, which prompted a bit of Camino Magic.

A hotel opened their breakfast to pilgrims, indicated by a chalk written sign saying “you are 15 steps away from breakfast”.

With fully bellies, we now had a spring in our steps and it was a breeze into Fisterra. We passed our New Zealand friend in town, who made it despite her foot problem.

Our journey was not over yet though, there was still 3km until the end of the world. The road rises steeply out of town before a long steady incline to the lighthouse.

This bit seemed to go on for ever, as it did last time. Eventually we got to the final 300m which is flat! The 0.00km way marker stood before us, a welcoming sight of triumph.

Once we had the photos taken we went to the very edge of the peninsula, a cross marks the spot where pilgrims leave something behind to represent their old life and go forward anew.

There was only one thing left to do, have a drink at the end of the world. We sat on a sun terrace with a cold beer to celebrate the end of the Camino.

We walked back into Fisterra to the hotel; to my mum’s Chagrin, it is on top of a hill. Once showered we had pizza in town before heading to the beach to watch the sun set over the Atlantic Ocean.

We now have a couple of days in Fisterra before we make our way back to Santiago by bus, ready for our flight back to Blighty on Saturday.

It was a long and tough one today due to no stops between Hospital and Cee. We truly were in the wilderness for most of the journey.

We weren’t the first out of the albergue for a change, two peregrinos were out before 0600h! We set off around 0640h, ascending in the dark on the last of the big hills for this Camino.

After 4km we arrived at Logoso for breakfast, stood outside waiting for a taxi were our friends from Acrington, we shared a pilgrims meal with, at Santa Marina.

They are running out of time, so they are skipping ahead to Cee and walking to Fisterra from there. We wished them a buen camino.

Dawn had arrived once breakfast was eaten, however there were no red skies, just grey clouds covering the heavens. It was a steady ascent up to Hospital taking the right hand path leading to Fisterra.

The route passes through woodlands that cover the hills that lead to the coast. After a short descent, we came to Cruceiro Marco do Couto. The traditional point where pilgrims would decide whether to take the left path to Muxia or the Right to Fisterra.

It was in these woods that a Bishop in the 15th century while on pilgrimage, witnessed werewolves and strange creatures. He called them Vákner. A local sculptor has made a huge metal statue of this beast.

The path undulated until the little chapel of Santa Ermida das Neves. Over the next 3 km it steadily rises before plateauing out before the speedy descent into Cee.

It was tough going with no amenities on this stretch. A chapel for San Pedro Martir, marks the last of the big hills. It was level from there until just before Cee. On the way into the town, we met our New Zealand friend from Santa Marina. She has picked up a foot injury and her pace had dropped to a crawl, but she was still in good spirits.

We stopped at the first bar for a cold drink then moved on to find somewhere to eat, however it appears most places are closed on Mondays. With tired legs and empty bellies we made our way to our accommodation for the night, to check in.

Luckily the chap at the desk pointed out a bar that will be open. When we turned up the kitchen had just closed, however the waiter persuaded them to stay open for tapas. Camino Magic!

After two long days in the Sun, I had promised my mum this would be a short day, and I delivered; a 12.5km stroll.

We were the first out of the albergue, way before 0700h. There was no mist this morning and the stars watched us from above. If it hadn’t been for the full moon, I reckon we would have been able to see the Milky Way.

Today mainly followed the road apart from a short section that leads up to the highest point on this route. We made good timing arriving at the summit just before dawn arrived. The sky was growing redder as the Sun approached.

From there it was down hill into Lago for breakfast. The route follows a country road weaving between wooded hills, before flattening out into Ponte Olveira.

In this stretch a dog was sunbathing in the road and the passing cars had to drive around him. However, seeing us approach gave him enough cause to trot over wagging his tail for a head scratch.

A short distance on we stopped for a drink at Ponte Olveira then moved on to our destination, Olveiroa. We arrived before check in time, thus we relaxed in the sun with a beer.

The albergue we chose has towels! And it is a lot better than the albergue I stayed at, two years ago. With the afternoon free, it felt like a rest day, which is good, as tomorrow is another long day.

Having completed the ‘Mini Camino Frances’, I still have a week and a bit left of my leave, which is plenty of time to sneak in another Camino; the road to the end of the world, Fisterra, called out to me.

Traveling with me, is my mum. Joe and Chris will be leaving Santiago for home, due to work.

Negreira is 21.96km and there is a killer of a hill at the 12km point. It is a 10% incline for over 2km! It was the only hill I remember from when I did Santiago to Muxia two years ago.

We left just before 0700h to avoid most of the forecasted heat. The streets of Santiago we silent, a complete contrast to the daytime.

The descent out of town leads down to the ruins of an old water mill that is now consumed by vegetation. The path then raises up through woodlands to a viewpoint back over the city, with the cathedral’s spires silhouetted against the predawn light.

The Camino is also very silent and hardly any fellow peregrinos are on the trail; this gave my mum a glimpse of what the Camino is like before Sarria. After passing through a couple of villages and woodlands, we stopped for breakfast, 7km into the walk.

It was pretty much a steady down hill walk into Augapesada. The sun was out now and a cold drink was in order before tackling ‘The Hill’.

A bit of Camino magic materialised in the form of a cloud that shaded us as we made our way up the 2km ascent. As we reached the top, it dissipated and the clear skies were back.

Luckily that was the worst one of the day and the last one, save for a short ascent into Negreira. After calling into a bar at Trasmonte and being serenaded by a little black cat, we passed over the bridge at Ponte Maceira.

The route follows the river for a short while before the final ascent into town. It was fiercely hot now and the hill seemed to drag on a bit.

We booked into the albergue, the same one I stopped at last time. I was glad there was space, as this one provides towels!

We popped into town for a couple of beers and food. Tomorrow is roughly a 16km stage. Just as well as the forecast is meant to be even hotter than today!