Camino del Norte Day 13 – Laredo to Güemes

Gronze warned it would be a long one today, and it wasn’t wrong. Broke the 30km mark for the first time on this Camino.

A flat gentle stroll along the promenade for an hour to reach the ferry to Santoña. Hardly anyone about and the view across the bay in the morning Sun was a picture of tranquility.

The ferry picks you up from the beach with the first trip at 0900h and every 15mins afterwards, a quick trip across the small estuary and you are in Santoña. Looking back, the view was brilliant.

We had breakfast at a café then continued, passing the towering stone walls to a prison. A hill in front progressively got closer and at the foot, we had a decision to make. Take the official route or the road – official we went.

It was a narrow, rocky, winding path through shrubbery. Uneven and steep in places; Neill lost his footing and ended up like a turtle – thankfully no injuries.

All the hardship had payed off, as we rounded the hill, a huge sandy beach stretched out to Noja on the horizon. The path down to the beach behaved, and we were on the soft sand.

Here I met Elliot from Wales, on his first Camino and aiming form Santiago. I followed the line of pilgrims enjoying the sea air and golden beach.

Wanting to remain on the beach I had to navigate a small stream. I unlaced my trainers and paddled across. The cold water was heaven for my feet. So good I walked the rest of the way in the surf.

At Noja, I rinsed the sand of my feet and called into a bar for a tortilla. It was undulating country roads for the last 15km, with the heat, it was a bit of a slog. On the way I met more perregrinos, with Santiago in their sights. Sophie from Austria, two from Oregon USA.

The Albergue sits on a hill, a 20min walk from Güemes. A great Donitivo, a life’s passion for the owner. He has kept on building it up over decades with the help of volunteers.

He had led a life you wouldn’t believe. At the age of 12 he was a shepherd, then became a priest, was involved with worker’s rights campaigns, arrested and put into prison. When he got out, he bought a Land Rover, drove all around Europe and North Africa, then put it on a boat to South America and drove all around there. Then returned in the 80s to make the albergue, and at the age of 87 he is still working.

Camino del Norte Day 12 – Castro Urdiales to Laredo

The difference the Sun makes to a day of walking cannot be understated. Blue skies all the way today!

It’s a small hill to tackle straight off the bat giving views back at Castro Urdiales and along the coastline ahead. Eventually it dropped to the coast, passing through a grove with goats weaving through the trunks.

Following the rugged shore high above, the sea to my right and mountains to my left, I was in heaven. Every 100 metres was a new view – I was in my element and happy.

The way joins the main coastal road unfortunately, but I was treated to a panoramic view of a sandy bay with surfers catching the waves.

The route splits at this point, the official way and the coastal way. I listened to my gut and went up the hill away from the shore – I wasn’t going to repeat yesterday’s experience. Despite having done 10km already, the sign said 22km to Laredo, and over 5hrs walk – challenge excepted.

Quiet country roads ensued, the traffic mostly cyclists, far better than the main road. When I got to Rioseco, I was ready for a cold drink. I pulled into a bar and there was Lina and Marcus, Camino magic!

The three of us walked out of the village to tackle the biggest of today’s hills, and my companion’s last; they are catching the bus at the next village to return to Bilbao. I took a goodbye selfie and I began the ascent.

Through the eucalyptus wood, it led me to a secluded hamlet and down to an equally remote valley with stunning views – the landscape has changed since entering the Cantabria region.

The route drops into the village Sopeña where I caught up with Jürgen. He was struggling with a pain in the front of his leg. Spotting a shaded bench in a park, we pulled over and I passed him some ibuprofen gel.

When I reached the next village, it was time for a cold beer. I stopped at the bar joining a table with Connie from Seattle. She is going to Santiago and started in Bayonne, the same day as me! Shortly after we were joined by Tim from Indiana, who too is going all the way.

The second hill of the day followed which lead back to the main road, that I had to follow for a while before the official route veers off. Again through tiny hamlets and quiet roads, I enjoyed the peace.

Before long I arrived into Laredo (5 hours 49 minutes in total – I beat that sign!) stopping at the Donitivo ‘Casa de la Trinidad’. A convent, but now an albergue, but still run by the nuns. I was warmly greeted and given a cool glass of lemon water, just what I needed for this scorching day.

Once chores were done, I headed out to a bar Neill had already scouted. Outside was Lina and Marcus, their connecting bus back to Bilbao would be picking them up there. Camino magic! – This time we said our final Camino goodbyes.

At 1800h I attended the pilgrims blessing, where the nuns sang angelic songs and individually blessed the peregrinos in attendance – a magical moment.

For dinner myself, Jürgen, Vanessa, Neill and John went to a nearby restaurant, where we discussed tomorrow’s plans. It’s a long one!

Camino del Norte Day 11 – Portugalete to Castro Urdiales

After breakfast we headed on out, up a hill as always – Neill and John took full advantage of the escalators (a common feature in the hilly towns)

The route follows some impressive infrastructure. A footpath and cycle lane takes you over the roads, the motorways and an impressive spaghetti junction.

About an hour and a half into the walk, the dry weather changed to a light shower that progressively got worse – Poncho time.

Just after Abanto-Zierbena there are conflicting signs for the route. The official carved wooden one pointing to the right and numerous yellow arrows pointing to the left. My gut was trusting in the arrows and after consulting Gronze Maps, it was justified.

Here the route dips under the motorway following a red brick path all the way to the coast. Many passing locals wished me “¡Buen Camino!” As we arrived into La Arena, the Sun was out to present a glorious sandy beach.

We stopped for a tortilla y potata and stripped off the ponchos. The way then follows the beach along a boardwalk, up a forested hill. At the top the rain returned; I had a feeling it would be a passing shower. I huddled under a tree waiting it out, not wanting to pull out my poncho again.

My gut was right again, 10 minutes later the sun returned. From there the Camino follows the coast, passing through a tunnel cut into a small headland and then on to Onton.

At the village I had a choice of the official route or the coastal route. My gut was saying the official way, however, having opted for the official route a few days back and missing some stunning views, I overridden my gut on this occasion.

I almost instantly regretted. It was all by road following the N-634, that snaked its way into Mioño; at some points very dangerous, with blind bends and no verges to step out of the way – I should have listened to my gut.

Glad to reach the village; outside a bar I spotted Ronni. I stopped for a drink with him. I was then joined by Jenny from Colombia and eventually John and Neill.

After a couple of beers enjoying the Sun I continued on to Castro Urdiales. A beautiful coastal town with a church and castle/lighthouse on a small headland, prominently watching over the sea.

The Albergue is 1.5km from the centre up a gradual hill. As I approached I was delighted to see Lina and Marcus – I had caught up with them.

Only problem was, the albergue was full. A quick search on Gronze, I found a Pension back in town and reserved a triple room so John, Neill and I could split the cost.

In the evening we met up with Lina, Marcus, Jürgen and Vanessa (a pilgrim I shared a dorm with in San Sebastián), for a meal and drinks.

Camino del Norte Day 10 – Bilbao to Portugalete

Poncho time again. The rain was still pouring when I left the hostel. The route pretty much follows one of the main roads from east to west of the city.

There was a hive of activity with people walking their children to school and making their way into work – a mass of umbrellas.

Once I reached the west side, the first ascent through a park began. The path was a little slippery and not to repeat my acrobatics from yesterday, I took my time.

At the top, I had panoramic views of Bilbao; the city is huge, it goes way back up the valley, and with the towns of Barakaldo and Sestao that all seem to merge into one, it is like one huge urban mass.

The way then dips down to a small industrial village then back up a winding road for the second and last-ish hill of the day. From here you can truly see the extent of urban mass.

It was a relatively gentle descent into Barakaldo. Outside a bar, two back packs were propped up against a chair – pilgrims!

I called in for an ‘Aquarius’ and a tortilla y potata. Sat at the bar were two familiar faces from the last week – I got chatting with them.

Ronni from Isreal and Jürgen from Germany, I had seen them a few times since Irún, but this was the first time I had talked to them. They are both going all the way to Santiago.

The route follows the banks of the Castanos Erreka, there seemed to be a steady stream of large fish swimming up the middle of the river – absolutely loads of them.

After crossing the river, the Camino rises up past a train station and through Sestao. Another hive of activity with people going about to their business. It then gives a lofty views of the river Nerbiol Ibaia – the huge river that goes from the coast to the Bilbao.

A short walk later I was in Portugalete the end of today’s stage. The town is famous for it’s transporter bridge, an engineering marvel of its time that formed the basis of many similar bridges across the world.

Camino del Norte Day 9 – Larrabetzu to Bilbao

The rain arrived with a vengeance, hammering it down from the early hours and didn’t let up until a brief period in the afternoon.

We grabbed breakfast at the bar, donned the ponchos and began Day 9. It was flat roadside walking for 7km before the start of the only climb of the day.

The path leaves the concrete onto a gravel track with gushing streams of deluge, running off the hill – I was practically wading.

The views were obscured by the cloud cover – it was just an upward, wet slog. At the top you enter a country park to begin the descent into Bilbao.

The outskirts of the city is very steep and the rainwater had turned the roads in water slide – I ended up doing a superman impression.

The descent didn’t let up until well into the city, where it leads you to the river, over a bridge then along the other bank, where my Hostel is located.

I was soaked. the rain was so heavy and constant, the Goretex in my trainers had failed and it even overwhelmed my poncho – unfortunately my credential also suffered.

John and Neill eventually arrived and we all went to get some food. I then visited the Guggenheim. Art work is a little lost on me, but I had all afternoon in Bilbao, as it was a short 14km stage.

The whole Camino gang met up Plaza Nueva, a square surrounded by tapas and pincho bars. We dined on good food and drink, however we were treated to a little bit of Camino Magic, Lyn from Amsterdam was there!

It was one last get together with everyone I had been walking with, before we split. The group are either finishing in Bilbao, skipping ahead or spending an extra day in the city.

I have been told the worst of the walk is now behind me, with the route getting easier past Bilbao. Just as well as my trainers aren’t dry yet!

Camino del Norte Day 8 – Olabe to Larrabetzu

After breakfast at the Albergue we hit the road, as usual it was up hill. Olabe is just short of the stage end, as Gernika didn’t have an Albergue. The 8km to the town I spent walking with a German pilgrim Nico.

We had great conversations and laughter that made the distances fly by. Mostly forest tracks led us to Gernika, with a small hill to contend with.

We called into a cafe for second breakfast before making our way through the town with difficulty spotting the arrows. Just like the Camino Frances, towns are hard to navigate.

With the help of Gronce maps we got back on track, heading back up into the hills, the first of the two between Gernika and Larrabetzu.

We caught up with Astrid, a German peregrino I first met in Irún. She had the dreaded bed bug encounter at the municipal albergue in Markina. She took a rest day to cleanse her gear.

The route continues on through an eucalyptus forest before descending shortly and then hitting the biggest hill for the day. A very long drawn out incline over 8km or so. All in woodlands which kept the Sun off me – again luck on my side as the afternoon was forecasted rain.

There was a constant strong breeze, synonymous of a change in weather, kept the walking comfortable.

It was a peaceful stage, nothing but the wind in the trees and birdsong filled the air, the occasional lizard would scurry across the path and I spotted two colourful slow worms.

The way leaves the forest to join a single track country road into a small village, where at the church 6 walkers in their 70s stepped off the bus. One lady was splashing her companions with water, as I passed she pretended to splash me, I said “¡Sí!“, so she did, we all had a laugh.

It was pavement walking into Larrabetzu, straight to the Donitivo Albergue with only 11 bed – no bunks!

Neill was there! He had walked from Gernika. Eventually John, Nico, Di, Lina and Markus arrived. We all had a few drinks and food at a local bar to end the day.

Camino del Norte Day 7 – Markina-Xemein to Olabe

In contrast with the walk so far, today was the easiest. For the first 5km it was flat but the only real climb came at 13km, by 1300h I reached my destination.

I had the best night sleep on this Camino so far, I closed my eyes at lights out and opened them when the albergue began to stir, as the peregrinos started their day. A young Israeli couple in the bunk opposite had left behind a jumper; knowing that I would meet them again I brought it along with me.

After calling into a shop in town for more fruit, the route out followed the river into the countryside, past a quarry high up above. Outside the village ‘Ziortza-Bolibar’, I reunited the lost jumper with its owner, it was also here I bumped into Eugene.

After a quick catch up I pressed on, enjoying the sunshine and the views. After descending a flight of wooden steps through a forest, I met three ladies from the UK. They had set off from Ziortza and had encountered the dreaded bed bugs at the albergue!

Leaving Gerrikaitz was up hill, the biggest challenge for the day, but nothing too strenuous in comparison with the journey thus far. Again admiring the views the kilometres sped by, and by 1300h I was in Olabe.

The Albergue opened at 1500h, giving me time to have lunch at the local bar and catch up with pilgrims I had met over the last few days. Most were going on to Gernika.

It was another communal meal shared with Camino friends from the past 7 days. Di who I had walked with between Irún to San Sebastián, Lina and her father Markus and John, however, unfortunately Neill was missing.

Yesterday was a tough one for him, so he took a bus to Bilbao to take a rest day. Hopefully I will see him there.

Camino del Norte Day 6 – Deba to Markina-Xemein

Everyone had been warning me that today is hard. Gronze gave it a 4 out of 5 on the difficulty level, but I found yesterday worse.

Despite being above the train station my sleep wasn’t disturbed. In fact as soon as my head hit the pillow, the next time I opened my eyes it was 0600h.

I packed up but I seemed to have lost a pair of underpants – the pair that escaped the wash! I asked the pilgrim in the bottom bunk if had packed it by mistake, but he hadn’t. Someone somewhere now has a stinky pilgrim pants in their bag – there was definitely nothing left next to my bunk when I left.

I had been warned that today there would be no stops between Deba and Markina. I fuelled up at a cafe and bought a handful of fruit before leaving.

It was a steep incline, a common theme for the Norte. The route was mostly forest tracks in an inland direction. Before long I was surrounded by mountains and trees. Beautiful landscape.

It wound through the peaks before descending to a “forgotten valley”, a small hamlet of about 5 houses with grazing cattle within a bowl of mountains, it resembled more of the shire than Spain. I was stunned with the beauty and tranquility of the place.

The route followed a single track road up, and up, and up, a long drawn out incline before levelling out, with views out across the mountain range.

I had to take a moment and admire the scenery. The path is pretty much level from this point until the brutal decline into Markina. It was very muddy and wet. I was glad for once to reach the tarmac of the road going into the town.

It goes past a church that had been built around a rock formation, I don’t know the significance of this unexpected find, but it was a surprise. From there it follows the river into the centre of town. I had a bite to eat and a drink with a pilgrim who had the bottom bunk in Deba – Alex from Berlin.

One kilometre walk took me to the albergue, a brilliant spot. We all had the communal meal, good food and wine with shared stories between pilgrims. A great ending to the day – I also found my missing underwear at the bottom of my rucksack.

Camino del Norte Day 5 – Zarautz to Deba

Today it was forecast to rain but not one drop appeared, although there was another downpour in the night. The air perfect for walking, Neill, John and I set off through the town.

The route again had a variant, the easier path via the coast and the harder route. I chose the difficult one leaving my campions to follow the coast.

It was a brutal accent, made worse by the lift that taunted me two thirds of the way – I didn’t cheat and persevered. The urban outskirts quickly gave way to vineyards and a rural setting, that presented lofty views of Getaria.

Before I knew it I was on the descent to the village. As you enter there is a statue of Juan Sebastian Elkano, who is from this small port town. He was the first person to circumnavigate the world.

I stopped at a cafe for some zumo de naranja and pan chocolate, just as John and Neill passed. I beckoned them in to join me for breakfast.

From here it was a steep ascent and an equally steep descent into Zumaia. This small seaside port is dominated by the church, standing tall above the buildings. Too early for lunch I didn’t stop.

Zumaia

A two hour undulating route with muddy and steep paths lay ahead of me. However the views didn’t disappoint. By the time I reached Itziar I was flagging.

Dumping my pack at the first bar, I got myself a tortilla y patata and a Kas Limon. It hit the spot for the horrendous down hill stage to Deba – I ran more than walked to save my knees.

I booked into the municipal albergue that is situated above the Deba train station. €8 a bed, can’t argue with that. A lot of familiar faces arrived and eventually John, Neill and Eugene.

We found a restaurant in the main square for food, not many places were open on account it’s Sunday. The 100km mark today has been broken, having walked 115km in total.

Camino del Norte Day 4 – San Sebastián to Zarautz

There was a heavy rain during the night but luckily it had stopped when we left the hostel just after 0800h. It was straight into a climb but the air was cool and refreshed.

The route consists of forest paths and country roads for roughly 13km with no places to stop – it was a good job I had breakfast before leaving San Sebastián.

Underfoot it was slightly muddy at times and there were stretches of large rocks that I had to be wary of not to slip. Other than that it was easy going. I was ticking off the kilometres enjoying the views and the tranquility.

I caught up with Neil from Belfast, a fellow peregrino I had a meal with last night. We walked together for a short period chatting about our hobbies and travels.

I pulled on ahead and just at the start of the descent into Orio there is a donativo offering refreshments – perfect timing.

There was an organised group of Brits undertaking the Norte. I’ve never seen so many of us in one place on a Camino! One chap was suffering with his right heel rubbing. I offered some of my kinesiology tape to cushion it, but he never heard of it and wasn’t keen.

I moved on briefly walking with an Australian who is only going as far as Bilbao before embarking on a driving tour around Portugal. A little bit further on I finally entered Orio, another quaint port town.

I had to call into the Farmacia to get some nail clippers, as mine broke last night; also I needed to get something for an insect bite on my left leg that is getting redder and larger.

It was too early for lunch, and with only 6km to go, I pressed on. The route out follows the opposite shore of the port, then up a bit of a headland.

Vineyards became my surrounds as I made my way to the top, where I was treated to a fantastic view of Zarautz beach. I spent a while sitting on a bench admiring the vantage point. A French man I had been leap frogging from Orio, joined me.

He had just done the Camino Frances and is now walking to Bilbao. After swapping stories he moved on. My hostel didn’t open until 1500h so I remained on the spot a little longer.

A short walk down following the road led me straight to my accommodation. Once booked in I went to the beach to wait for my Camino pals to join. Once they did we had the pilgrims menu at bar on the sea front, drawing the end to day 4.