I Can Hear the Soft Sound of Stones Crunching Underfoot

Firstly, I’ve done a little video of my recent one day walk with the British Pilgrimage Trust. Not quite on the scale of my Norte one, but it will kill 6 mins of your time. It can be found here:

With completing my video and doing a fair bit of walking in the current spring sunshine we’re experiencing in the UK, I’m starting to miss the Spanish Sun, long days on The Way, a cold glass of ‘Kas Limón’, Tortilla y Potata and the snore filled ambiance of the Albergues – well maybe not the last one! But I can hear the Camino calling me and I feel my restlessness urging me back on Pilgrimage.

This has been compounded by having major FOMO (Fear of Missing Out), hearing that one of my fellow peregrinas from the Francés, has just finished the Portugués, resulting in our Camino Whatsapp group buzzing with chatter and pictures of her journey.

There is only one way to abate this feeling, and that is to plan my next one, or at the very least book some leave. Which is what I’ve done – two weeks in September secured. Now it’s a question of which one do I pick. I’ve a had a few comments from my blogs and YouTube video, to try the ‘San Salvador’; which is from Leon to Oviedo. I’ve been told it is a beautiful one to walk and only 5 days.

But that feels a little too short, it would be good to tack that onto the ‘Primitivo’ though. The Inglés is another on the list, but again it’s only a 5 day-er. To solve this quandary, I stood in front my Camino wall map in my lounge, to find some contenders. After narrowly missing varicose veins standing too long, I found one. Roughly two weeks and it even finishes at Santiago!

Camino Sanabrés

Granja de Moreruela to Santiago de Compostela. This route spurs off the Via de la Plata, providing an alternative path to the Galician Capital, avoiding the busier Francés; which the Plata joins at Astorga. It’s less travelled than the popular ones, and favoured by those walking the Plata wishing to stay clear of the crowds.

The stages aren’t too long with 4 over 30km with the longest at 36km – a walk in the park for a Norte veteran! Like the Norte I’m going into this one blind, without doing any research to enjoy the wonder as the route unfolds.

Sanbrés: Light brown path from bottom right to top left

Now I have something on the horizon, the sound of the soft rhythmic crunch of footsteps urging me towards the Camino has been quietened – for now.

BPT – West Stow to Bury St. Edmunds

This was my first guided pilgrimage with the British Pilgrimage Trust. A charity that has a goal of revitalising the ancient British pilgrim routes.

My mum joined me on this walk and we met everyone at the train station, where we caught lifts from fellow pilgrims to St. Mary’s at West Stow. A quaint little church in a tiny village.

St. Mary’s West Stow

Once everyone arrived, there was tea and biscuits, giving chance to mingle and get to know each other. The guide for the BPT was Dawn.

In the chancel we all formed a circle, where Dawn explained what to expect for the day, everyone introduced themselves and had a brief history on King Edmund.

The story goes; he was captured by Vikings during a battle and then tied to a tree. The Vikings offered his freedom, if he denounced his faith; which he wouldn’t. They then filled him with arrows, but he remained steadfast to his belief.

The Vikings then beheaded him. Eventually King Edmund’s body was found by his knights, with his head missing. A wolf could be heard, beckoning the men to Edmund’s head, where the wolf had been protecting it.

They returned his head to his body, where it miraculously reattached itself. The knights brought him to where Bury St Edmunds now sits. A small chapel was built for him. Shortly afterwards miracles kept occurring for those who visited his remains, thus granting him sainthood.

Bury became a destination for pilgrims throughout the Middle Ages; and King Edmund was the patron saint of England before it was George!

We set out from St. Mary’s into the spring sunshine, cutting across the grounds of the private ‘Culford School’, pausing at a bridge over Culford Beck. The iron bridge is an early example of the change in metal work construction. Older iron bridges were built by bolting on panels and struts.

Dawn gave us a lesson on Alder trees, which are common in the area along water sources. In folklore they are a bad omen, the leafless tree, that has a dark sap gives the appearance of bleeding. Warriors in the past used to coat their shields in the sap. Theory being, their shields would bleed instead of them!

We continued on to a small church on the school grounds, that had a stamp for pilgrim passports – I left mine at my digs thinking there wouldn’t be any, having secured the cathedral stamp the day before; I grabbed a donation envelope and stamped that!

The guide talked to us about the mythology behind wolves. They are regarded as the symbol of the wild but also a noble protective creature, which is why they are featured in King Edmund’s legend.

Selfie with the talking wolf

We soon joined the river Lark where we followed the banks into Fornham; here we stopped for lunch on the grounds of Fornham All Saints. We chatted amongst ourselves, sharing our experiences from other pilgrimages.

By the time we set off, the clouds came in and the temperature dropped. The route crosses the local golf course with parakeets squawking from the trees. This was the last bit of “wild space” before entering Bury, we walked in silence to absorb our last taste of nature before civilisation.

A couple of kilometres of urban sprawl and we were on the grounds of the old abbey, where the cathedral now stands. We circled the building, some going barefoot as we passed through the doors, concluding the pilgrimage.

One of the pilgrims, works within the cathedral and she gave us a private tour about the history and pilgrim symbolism within the architecture, finishing up with a cup of tea.

St. Edmundsbury Cathedral
Central Tower

We returned to our accommodation to change from our walking gear and headed into to town for some food.

The following day, we visited Ely to get the stamp from the cathedral, and what a treat that was! The building is amazing!

It dominated the skyline on approach, intricately carved mason work with a beautiful central dome tower. Walking through the nave took my breath, I was in awe. It’s now my favourite UK cathedral!

I could have spent all day admiring it, but we had to get back home.

Ely Cathedral
Central Dome Tower

Wolf and Water Day Pilgrimage

The New Year has been and gone, the frigid weather is on it’s way out, and I’m itching to get on another thru hike or pilgrimage. I had some leave to use up before I lose it at the end of the financial year. Looking at the rota I managed to add on two days to a three day weekend coming up at the end of March.

Having five days off, I didn’t want this to go to waste, and pondering what to do, the Camino was listening. An email dropped into my inbox. A couple of years ago I signed up to a charity, the “British Pilgrimage Trust”. An organisation that has an aim to restore and popularise the pilgrimages within the UK – You will be surprised how many there are!

If you followed my Two Saints Way pilgrimage, that was one of them. Well, this email advertised up and coming events and guided pilgrimages. On the day I had just booked off, they are holding a one day pilgrimage; the ‘Wolf and Water Pilgrimage’.

A short 8 mile trail from St. Mary’s Church in West Stow to Bury St. Edmunds Cathedral. St. Edmund’s legend involves Danes, beheadings and a speaking wolf! As this is a guided pilgrimage, I will be immersed in the history and folklore of the area – a little different to my usual adventures!

I’ve secured accommodation that is actually on the cathedral grounds, so I won’t have far to rest my legs after completing this walk! I’ll do a blog and produce a short video of this one day adventure.

Out of the Comfort Zone

It has been a manic couple of months since finishing the Camino del Norte and over the last week I have finally found time to put together a video of this amazing journey. In the past I have thrown together a few clips, slapped some music on and posted it to the interweb.

However this time, I’ve taken it up a notch, I’ve done a reflective narration for this epic journey that took me along the northern Spanish coast and meeting the most amazing people that made this pilgrimage special. (I know before you say it, I’ve butchered some of the pronunciations of the Spanish places!)

It’s a longer format than my usual videos at 1.5 hours, but I hope you will not be deterred and find it entertaining. I’ve tried to encapsulate my thoughts and experiences as well as briefly describing each day. If it gives you an insight to the journey or sways you to undertake a Camino, I’ll be over the moon!

Enjoy!

Nederlands Christmas Markets Adventure

This time 10 years ago I spent a week in Valkenburg and Brussels, enjoying the Glühwein at the Christmas markets for my mum’s 60th. Family and friends embarked on planes, trains and automobiles, to celebrate the milestone and the festive time of the year.

Here I am, a decade on returning to this magical town with the same crowd and more. Having experienced Leiden last year, the plan is Valkenburg and this picturesque town, 30 min from Amsterdam.

It was an early start catching the 0555h plane from Manchester to Schiphol, then a 3 hour train to Valkenburg. Half the group missed the connection on the home stretch at Maastricht, but I stayed behind to ensure everyone got to the destination.

After lunch at the station cafe and checking into the hotel, I went for an explore. I couldn’t remember this many restaurants last time I was here! I managed to find the bar we made our regular all those years ago – I had to stop for a drink.

The rest of the gang joined for food and a few drinks. By 10pm we were flagging having been up since 1am; time to call it a night.

Valkenburg’s Christmas market is within a cave system of a sandstone mine. At 11am we were through the doors. Stalls upon stalls filled every corner, trees and decorations transformed the place into a festive grotto.

There were sweet treats, waffles, Christmas decorations, festive jumpers and Gluhwein for sale. After a couple glasses and every tunnel explored we headed to a bar, before attending the outdoor market for food.

One more drink in the warmth of a nearby bar called the end of the day.

Back on the trains the following day to Leiden. Having briefly visited this city last year, I wanted to spend longer at this pretty town. It is like Amsterdam but without the tourists.

We arrived early afternoon meeting up with four new party members, who are joining us for the remainder of the trip. We grabbed some food, checked into our hotel then had a little explore and a couple of drinks.

The Christmas markets here don’t open until Saturday however a short train trip south to The Hague and there are plenty there.

After grabbing breakfast at a quaint little cafe by the canal side, ‘Roos’. We took the train to The Hague.

I expected the city to be all modern high rise office buildings, but I was wrong. Although at the train station there some, once you get to the centre, you are amongst the characterful Dutch buildings.

The markets are within the Voorhout Park, next to the Ridderzaal which is part of the Binnenhof complex, the political centre of country.

The cabins formed the perimeter and seating areas in the middle. Lots of food stalls – I spotted empanadas and churros; I had to partake to have a taste of Spain and the Camino!

The temperature was cold and after a couple of hours we sought some warmth of a bar. On the way we passed the royal palace, before ducking into a tiny jazz bar.

Once warmed up and a couple drinks down us we returned to Leiden for food and evening drinks.

Ridderzaal
Royal Palace

After breakfast in Leiden we headed to Amsterdam. While the group did the boat tour, I took the opportunity to visit the NEMO science museum. It gave a time line of the history of science and the great discoveries.

Each floor had a specific topic from engineering to the human body – I particularly liked the astronomy floor. Everything was interactive, bringing out my inner child!

From there I joined the rest of the party at the Christmas markets situated near the Rijskmuseum. It is smaller than The Hague one, and very crowded. This day was definitely the coldest, and we soon moved on back to the train station.

We finished the last evening on this adventure in Leiden.

NEMO Science Museum
I’ve been digitalised

With evening flights, it allowed us to spend the most of the day in Leiden, exploring the Christmas market and town.

The market was very small, along a pretty street outside the Hooglandse church, with mostly food stalls – I had another empanada! There was a carol service in the church and some craft stalls.

I had wanted to look inside the building the last time I was here, and over this visit. Huge ceilings with leaded windows and white stone pillars reached up to the top; quite impressive.

It started to rain at this point prompting us to dive into a bar for warmth and a drink, after which we made our way to catch the train to the airport.

A very eventful packed week, and a great time had by all.

Camino del Norte Day 38 – Santiago de Compostela

Despite having a room to myself and the chance to stay in bed, I was still on the Camino clock and up at 7am.

I had a shower, a luxury to have first thing in the morning. It seems an age ago since I was able to start the day with one – it was bliss!

Once cleaned I went to the cathedral while it was quiet to have my customary visit to St. James’ tomb and tap his statue on the shoulder, before my usual walk around while it was quiet.

For Mary Harris and Peter Critchlow

Then it was time for breakfast, I picked one of my favourite deysayuno spots, ‘Airas Nunes’, to meet the gang. Comfy chairs, classical music, very civilised for scruffy pilgrims.

I then gave a short tour of the city to my friends, showing the highlights of the cathedral, the first pilgrim and the two Marias. John and Elliot went to the midday pilgrims mass, while Judyta and I waited in the Praza Obradoiro, for Samual and Judith to arrive.

Olivier joined us briefly before he had to catch his bus to Porto. Just before the heavens opened up, they arrived with another familiar face, Sophie from Austria; We had met in Guemes – The Camino has the habit of reuniting pilgrims.

Drinks were in order! John and Elliot joined us briefly after mass, before they had to catch a bus to the airport. Everyone else had to check in to their accommodation, so I took the chance to do a little souvenir shopping and have a drink, before joining everyone for the evening pilgrims mass.

Luck was with us again, the Botafumeiro swung! Three out four visits I have seen it in action! Our bellies were rumbling, prompting us to get food.

Over dinner, we chatted about our adventures on the pilgrimage, showing pictures of the highlights. A great end to another amazing journey.

As I would need an early bus, I said my goodbyes to my friends, I hope to see them again – you never know, the Camino works in mysterious ways.

Here ends my Camino del Norte.

Camino del Norte Day 37 – O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela

It had to be the quickest 20km I had done, the last day was over in a blink of an eye. The best thing is, we beat the rain!

We had to be out of the albergue by 0800h, and due to some early risers, we were out the door by 0715h.

The route is initially through woodlands and my head torch went into low battery mode. But having done this section three times now, I was pretty much in autopilot.

We all decided to start this morning walking alone, it is always a difficult day getting into Santiago. At ‘Bar 15km’ we gathered for breakfast, then made our ascent up to the airport.

Walking through the familiar eucalyptus woods, past the runway and down into San Paio, calling into the bar for a drink – it wasn’t even 1000h, but it is Santiago day after all!

We moved on getting to the 10km marker, the first time I’ve seen it in day light. I’ve always started from Lavacolla on my last day.

The Hill that I remember was merely a mound for these Basque Country legs, and the long stretch to Monte do Gozo flew by. I made a point of going to the pilgrim statues that overlook the city – I had missed them on my previous Caminos.

The last 5km was littered with tourigrinos, getting in the way. The now familiar streets zoomed by, and the spires of the cathedral came into view. The bagpipes were playing as we passed under the arch into the square.

Even on my fourth visit, the cathedral still had me in awe. I shuck my travelling companions hands and gazed at the cathedral. Once getting our compostelas and a few celebratory drinks, we booked into our respective digs.

As is the Camino we bumped into old faces, and we arranged to have dinner together. Jenny from Colombia, Hugo from Mexico, Ricardo from Spain, Karina from the states, Elliot, John, Judyta and I.

Afterwords we went to a local bar for drinks and a game of pool. A great end to the day.

Camino del Norte Day 36 – Arzúa to O Pedrouzo

It really was a culture shock today after spending weeks seeing so few people and little places to stop. The way being full of peregrinos and cafes almost every 2km, feels like a different world.

Another very late start. We were the last out the albergue and we headed straight to a cafe for breakfast. 9 o’clock had been and gone before we set off.

Samual joined us for a short while, he is spending a rest day in Arzúa so friends of his will join him in the evening.

It was another cold start and no real hill to warm me up properly. But the sun was out and it slowly warmed up to be a glorious day – it felt like I’m on holiday.

After a couple of kilometres Samual said his farewells and the four of us continued on. We took it easy, walking as a group, stopping at a few cafes for empanadas and cold drinks – once midday arrived we were on the beers.

The way is so busy, many people walking and a fair share of tourigrinos. Large groups clogged the paths. It’s probably no more than previous years, but having spent the last 35 days in the solitude of the Norte, it really felt crowded.

Bottle bar

I now walked familiar paths, enjoying the warm sunshine and the easy pace. Before we knew it we arrived into O Pedrouzo. Feeling in a party mood we went for beers and had food at the Mexican restaurant that gave out wax stamps!

We made some new friends, Gavin from Dublin and Bestin from Australia. I also met Andy and Michelle again – great to see familiar faces among the scores of new pilgrims.

Tomorrow is Santiago. The last day on the Camino. The end of the adventure is upon me.

Camino del Norte Day 35 – Sobrado dos Monxes to Arzúa

The Camino gave us a perfect day in all respects, for the last one on the Norte before it joined the hustle and bustle of the Frances.

It was the coldest start of the Camino so far – gloves cold! We all met for breakfast at a cafe just outside the monastery. The place was packed with pilgrims, the most I’ve seen in recent days.

As dawn arrived we set off. Mist clung to the fields that surround the Mosteiro de Santa Maria. I was keen to get warm, so I went full pace to reach the first hill of the day.

Once at the top I was fully warmed up. The route mostly consisted of country roads through the forested green rolling hills of Galicia. At 10km it was time for a break at Boimorto.

The Sun still hadn’t warmed everything up enough to take off my jumper, but it was a lot more comfortable. Continuing on we had the route to ourselves.

Just before Arzúa, the Camino gave us our last farewell to the Norte. Peaceful surrounds, cows grazing in the fields, the sun lazily shining through the trees and only birdsong and our footsteps could be heard. Our last bit of solace before we join the cacophony of the Camino Frances.

Once in town we sat at a bar for a few drinks, slightly in celebration mode. We played a game of ‘spot the tourigrino’ as the pilgrims made their way along the Camino Frances.

Later we all met up for food and drinks. We had to say goodbye to Christavel, who will be pulling a big day to Santiago tomorrow due to commitments, and Samual is spending a rest day in Arzúa to meet up with friends.

The end of the adventure is racing towards me now.

Camino del Norte Day 34 – A Lagoa to Sobrado dos Monxes

A wet morning in the hills, a cafe that had deliverance vibes and a night in a monastery, not to mention the highest point on the Norte done – quite an eventful day.

Just after 0800h I was out the door with the promise of breakfast in 2km. It was warm and dry at first but rain was on the way. I was hoping to get to the cafe before the deluge arrived, however it was closed.

The route goes over a rocky heath where I caught up with Judyta, just as the rain arrived. Ponchos on and umbrella up, but it wasn’t enough, my trainers were soon wet.

As misery enjoys company we walked together. It was mostly flat with the occasional incline. The terrain was kind with a good respite from road walking when needed.

We got 10km done and there had been nowhere to stop. We sheltered under a bus stop – the rain didn’t let up. We trudged on for another 6km to shelter under a dilapidated barn.

We checked Google maps to only find we were 50m from a cafe. Giggling at the absurdity, we made a dash for it. It’s basically a small farm with a seating area in the kitchen.

Chickens were running free, big German shepherds watched us, and a very strong smell of farmyard and wet dog hung in the air. We took a seat inside at the kitchen table. The owner cooked us up a fresh cheese omelette bocadillo – and I got an earl grey tea to warm up.

The rain had eased off. We continued on and with every step the sky brightened and eventually the Sun came out to play. The walking became easier, and without knowing we passed over the highest point on the Camino Norte. There was no sign indicating this, I only found out after looking at the map once we arrived at Meśon where we had another break.

5km on we arrived into Sobrado in high spirits. We passed a small lake on the way into town that caused us to pause for pictures.

Our albergue for the night is in a monastery, the monk originally from England, booked us in for the night. I took a look around the cloisters and the church with amazing stone masonry. Renovations have been taking place and has transformed the albergue into a modern establishment.

Andy and Michelle are staying here as well, I hadn’t expected to see them again, it was a nice bit of Camino magic.

For once there were a few restaurants open on a Monday and finding something to eat wasn’t a problem. Tomorrow we join the Camino Frances, on the run into Santiago. We will have to book ahead now as it gets busy – I had forgotten how busy the Frances is, it took me three attempts to find some beds!