It rained throughout the night and the day, a part from a short break around 1600h, it was a wet one today.
We jumped on the train to Arashiyama district of Kyoto, known for its bamboo forests and the last operating tram line in the city.
First stop was the Yusai-Tei gallery. A traditional Japanese style house tucked away within a forest that had rooms that gave different perspectives of the surrounding woods using reflections off surfaces.
From there we visited the bamboo forest that was packed – it had been made popular on instagram. I still managed to get some pictures though.
After some Japanese curry we got the last operating tram in Kyoto back towards the market and shopping area.
We had a couple of drinks and a snack then made our way back to the hotel to dump our stuff and go to a nearby restaurant.
The rain had picked up and the restaurants were closed, not wanting to venture too far with the rain, we had a 7Eleven dinner and ate back at the hotel.
It was cold this morning, there was no central heating in the house, only gas heaters in the lounge, and utility room.
We headed straight to the train station to get back to Tokyo for the bullet train to Kyoto. It was far warmer in the capital.
We jumped on the train and sped south. Two hours later, we were in the old capital. We booked into the hotel and went straight out to find the old town and get some food.
We called into a restaurant on the edge of the old town, before going to the Yasaka shrine. A pagoda in the centre was lit with lanterns, and it wasn’t overly busy. From there we then walked through the old town.
Narrow streets with lanterns at the front doors, to tiny houses, and stalls – what I envisioned Kyoto to be like. The shops however were all closed for the day, and no one was about – great for crowd free pictures.
Not really an eventful day, with all the travelling. But now we have a new part of Japan to explore.
After a chilled start we made our way through the town, to the iconic red bridge that pretty much appears in every picture for Nikko.
From there it was up hill into the woods where Buddhist temples are nestled amongst the trees. The most famous is the ‘Nikko Toshogu’ that has the carvings of three wise monkeys. One with its hands over its ears, the next over its mouth and the third over its eyes – the origin of “hear no evil, speak no evil and see no evil”.
Unfortunately we didn’t go to this temple as the queue for it went all the way down the hill!
We had an explore of the neighbouring ‘Rinnoji Daigoma-do’ temple. Three huge golden effigies of gods, stood along the main wall. You can walk around them, visiting little shrines and statues of monks and important figures in the temple’s history.
Next was the treasure room, that had more statues and portraits of shoguns. Outside this is a garden and koi pond.
After returning to town for lunch we tried for the bus to see the Chuzenji waterfalls, however the bus never arrived.
We took a walk along the river to visit a site of a temple that had been washed away by a great flood a 100 years ago.
Little statues and Cairns lined the footpath, with knitted red hats and scarfs. The purpose of these are to guide children that have passed away to the afterlife.
We continued on along the river and woods, passing warning signs that bears live in the area – we didn’t see any.
We reached a footbridge over the river, returning us to town. All the walking had given us a thirst. We stopped for a few drinks at a microbrewery before calling into a supermarket to get food and return to our digs.
Thankfully I had a lay in, the festivities of the Gyobar last night gave me a foggy head. I packed up my stuff ready for the trip to Nikko.
Two hours north by train of Tokyo into the countryside. We had swapped the high rise buildings for high rise mountains. Straight off the train the vibe was completely different.
Despite being in cattle class, it felt equivalent to first class back home. When the train pulled into the station everyone queued to allow the cleaners to go through each carriage before we embarked – no way that would happen back home.
Each seat had ample leg room and even a fold out foot stool. From my window I watched the city give way to rice paddy fields. This time of year is when the farmers start preparing for planting. Tractors ploughed through flooded fields, as I whizzed by.
Soon lush green mountains and forests became the backdrop, heralding our arrival into Nikko. We called into a cafe where I sampled Chiffon cake. I had the orange chiffon, a light sponge cake that had bits of the fruit baked into it.
At 1500h we checked into our Airbnb. More of a traditional style accommodation for our brief stop in Nikko. It also provided our opportunity to do some washing!
We had a relatively chilled evening, getting a few beers and food from the supermarket and cooking it at the house. A Total shift in gear from Tokyo.
Tomorrow we will be visiting the shrines which this region is best known for.
This was our last day in Tokyo, and the weather wasn’t playing ball.
Umbrellas up and rain jackets on. We ran to the subway to catch the train to Azumabashi. Outside a popular miso soup bar, we queued up to fuel us for the day.
At 1130h, we took the ferry to Odaiba, seeing the city from the Sumida River. Thankfully the boat was enclosed saving us from the rain.
At Odaiba, there is shopping complex, and where I finally found the traditional Japanese tea set I’d been looking for!
We pottered around there for a while. The place was busy. Japan is about to enter a national holiday period called ‘Golden Week’. TL:DR is it’s an accumulation of bank holidays.
While browsing the shops I bumped into Godzilla!
Smile for the camera
As we left the rain intensified, it looked like a tropical storm- the wind was whipping, the rain horizontal and the umbrellas were inside out.
We took the subway to Shinjuku with the intention to go back to the Izakaya bars, but the downpour was so heavy. We opted for a beer at a bar then headed back to the hotel.
Dumping our stuff off, we ventured back out – the rain had stopped – to call in at a nearby restaurant. Then had beers at ‘Gyobar’.
It’s a hidden gem. The staff were so energetic and friendly, they made the evening. An enjoyable last night in the capital.
It was a relatively chill day. In the morning we went to the fish market for breakfast. Sampling the food from the street vendors, before making our way to Niihori area to visit a bonsai museum.
The subway followed by a bus journey got us to the suburbs, where it is situated. The Shunkaen Bonsai Museum. I expected a bit more from it, like how they are grown or the history of this art.
It was just hundreds of bonsai trees on display. Might as well have been a garden centre. There were some good aesthetic trees, but I expected more.
From there we headed to the Higashi area, famous for kitchenware. I was looking for a traditional Japanese tea set, however I didn’t see any that took my fancy.
The buildings had cups and chefs built into them. An oddity for a city, that cater for specific wares.
From there we went to the Taito area for dinner. Plenty of bars were on offer in this popular district. We went to a couple sampling their sushi and beer.
A subway ride back to Ginza took us to the UniQlo store where we did a bit of clothes shopping then headed back to the hotel for a beer.
Tomorrow it is forecasted rain, so we have a boat tour on the agenda – I have confirmed, it’s an enclosed boat!
We were out the traps at 0720h to get to the Tokyo Station for 0800h, to meet the tour guide for Mt. Fuji. A coach trip to all the best and iconic view points to see Japan’s highest mountain.
It was almost a 2 hour trip to our first stop; Lake Kawaguchi. Down on its shores I got views of Fuji and along a flower garden at the visitor centre. Huge crowds queued for the spot where the iconic image from the lake was taken.
But I found just as amazing viewpoints amongst the garden – which were practically empty. From there the coach took us to the ‘Lawson’ store, another iconic location.
Then it was time for lunch at Oshino-Hakkai, a quaint little village with views of Fuji, the location where it was pictured in a small pond.
The place was packed, restaurants brimming with people. I found a little stall that sold grilled squid, a local speciality.
Then the final stop was Arakurayama Sengen Park. This view point involved a 400 step climb to a temple. Hundreds of people were there and at the top, they took eons to pose for their Instagram.
They tested my patience as they made funny stances and spending ages to take one picture. When it was finally my turn, I had it framed and taken within 5 seconds – amateurs.
The last photo was in the town below, an iconic view down the road of the shopping area. Signs and power lines lead the eye to the mountain. Although my shot had cars and crowds in it.
From there it was back to Tokyo, where Pete and I returned to the hotel so he could change his trousers.
While at the Lawson spot, in an attempt to get a crowd-free picture, he hoisted Ellina on his shoulders. When he bent down, the sound of denim surrendering hushed the nearby tourists – he’d only gone and spilt his favourite jeans!
Once changed we found a Belgium beer bar just around the corner from the hotel. After those 400 steps, the crowds and the long coach ride back; a cold drink was in order.
For dinner we went to Kura Sushi. You order from an iPad at the table and the food arrived on a conveyor belt to the table. A good selection, not just fish available.
With bellies full we headed to craft beer pub, where they had a Spanish theme. Different ales brewed from different regions from the Iberian peninsula. Then subway back to the hotel.
Some more pictures from the our tour.
Arakurayama Sengen ParkArakurayama Sengen ParkLake KawaguchiArakurayama Sengen Park
The rain had dissipated through the night leaving a very sunny and hot morning. Pete and I went to the electronic district at Akihabara, whilst Ellina went off to a fashion museum – I don’t have a sense of fashion so it would be wasted on me.
Every gadget you could want, old or new was for sale. It was also a bit nerdy, but not the cool nerdy. Despite the plethora of high tech on offer, I came away with a water bottle.
From there we went to Shibuya, and took part in the infamous crossing. A huge crowd, enough people to fill a football stadium waited for the pedestrian crossing lights to go green.
Once it did, everyone en masse moved as one, people crisscrossed the junction in ordered chaos. From there we had lunch at another Izakaya style restaurant – like yesterday’s.
We then met up with Ellina to make our way to Azabudai for the Teamlab Borderless exhibition. An immersive digital art show.
I was very impressed. An amazing experience. Rooms had light shows, pictures and patterns projected on the walls and floors. One room looked like you were within a waterfall.
A travelling musical band of animals moved around the corridors. I followed them to a room where they danced and partied.
A room had baubles with lights inside, dangling from the ceiling. It felt like you were amongst the stars. One had walls of mist, with more animations projected on it.
That is only half of the experience, don’t want to spoil it all!
From there we had a drink then headed back to Chuo area for dinner. On the way back to the hotel we called into 7Eleven for a couple of cans of beer and had them in the hotel foyer.
Early one tonight, as tomorrow it’s a day trip to Mt. Fuji.
After a solid night sleep we were out the door on the tube to Roppongi, grabbing some breakfast before visiting the Mori Art Museum.
Situated in the 53rd floor of the Roppongi Hills Tower. It hosted an exhibition on computer generated digital art. Over multiple rooms there were 3D printed sculptures, animated displays and digital stills.
We spent a hour admiring the exhibition, then called into the cafe for a drink. We got window seats looking over the Tokyo skyline.
We hit the tube to Shinjuku region, aiming for Omoide Yokocho. Here there are traditional Japanese eateries along a narrow alley. Each place could hold no more than 10 people side by side, at the bar where they served the food.
The one we picked served grilled skewered meats and veg. A cozy little restaurant with friendly staff. After a couple of plates and drinks we went on the hunt for Godzilla.
We stepped outside into the alley, and into the rain. Luckily I had my brolly. At a brisk walk, we went in search of the giant monster, as the downpour worsened.
With soggy feet, we found Godzilla, peering over TOHO Cinemas. Back on the tube, we got to Shimo-Kitazawa. An area that I’ve been reliable informed is “hip and trendy”.
Known for ‘Thrift Stores’ and bars. I had only come out in a T-shirt today, and feeling a little chilly in the rain, I found a hoodie, with the Colorado Rock Mountains on the front.
For some respite from the dreary weather, we had a drink at one of the many bars. Although to use the toilet, I had to go back out into the rain and down an adjacent side street!
Back on the tube, we headed back to the Chuo district on search for our evening meal. We got there just before 2100h, and everywhere weren’t taking new orders past then.
It was a case of grabbing food from a ‘Seven Eleven’ – a convenience store chain. With an armful of food that cost a couple of quid, we returned to the hotel and ate our spoils in the lobby.
My alarm sounded at 0500h but I was awake before then. I spent Friday night at a friend’s in London Kings Cross. The noise of the city, cars zooming around, drunk revellers singing and a foxes yelling them to keep it down, left me with little sleep.
The tube to Heathrow went smoothly, and check in just as easy, before I knew it I was boarding my flight for my next adventure.
What followed was a 13 hour flight in cattle class. I had downloaded the recent BBC series: Pilgrimage, Road Through the Alps. That killed 3 hours – still 10 remaining.
I interchanged between reading my book ‘Wild’ by Cheryl Strayed and trying to sleep. Over Beijing, I was treated to a thunderstorm display. I was mesmerised watching the fork lightning, streak through the clouds far below. Other than that, it was pretty much what you’d expect being stuck on a plane for 13 hours.
The sun rose once we entered Japanese airspace. The plane flew around Mt. Fuji on its approach, the snow capped mountain posed for photos. The size of Tokyo is immense. I knew it is the most densely populated city in the world, but seeing it from the air, was something else.
Just before 7 we landed and worked our way through immigration, then took the tube to the Chuo district where our hotel is.
Straight away I spotted a quirk, everything sings or plays a tune. Getting cash out of the ATM: it plays a happy tune. A minute before the train pulls up to the platform: a cheerful melody is played.
We dumped our bags at the hotel then went for an explore. First stop the Imperial Palace Gardens.
Trees and flowers were decoratively planted with the clean and ordered precision, that Japan is known for.
From there we headed back towards our hotel grabbing some food along the way. Check-in was 1500h. I slumped on my bed and fell asleep instantly – I had been up way over 24hrs.
A couple of hours kip and a shower later I was back out. Headed to the Sky Room. A bar offering views over Tokyo. The vast city, illuminated in all its glory, as our backdrop.
We then stopped in the Asakusa district and browsed through the Don Quixote Store. The placed sold everything, and it was an assault on the senses!
We then had a look around the Senso-Ji temple. A red building underneath flared tiled eaves and a grand curved roof, a typical example of the Irimoya-Zukuri style which Japan is known for.
The grounds are dotted with little shrines and rows of lanterns that contrasted well with the bright red temple.
From there we found a back street restaurant where I had a beer and tried Sashimi for the first time. Not what I expected but it didn’t deter me.
Stu's Camino 