Stu's Camino

Walsingham Camino Day Two – Ware

Another grey start to the day, the last nights rain had ceased thankfully. I returned to the church to start the next stage and set my GPS on the go.

I rejoined the towpath and followed it through the Lea Valley. Runners and the waterfowl were my company for the day.

The peace and quiet were chalk and cheese compared to yesterday. Apart from the brief sections around Broxbourne and Stanstead Abbots, my sound track were the birdsongs. I eased into the walking, relaxing I was out of London.

I’m always ‘on edge’ in cities, but with the reputation of the big smoke, I was on heightened senses more so than usual.

I managed to get better footage for my video I will make. Feeling comfortable to leave my phone to get the ‘walking past the camera shots’.

Broxbourne was roughly half way and the route took me away from the towpath, to skirt around St. Augustine’s – it was closed, no stamp from there.

I was feeling good and it was too early for food; I pressed on. I joined the ‘Hertfordshire Way’ national route, I relaxed even further, knowing I now have signs to follow. Might not be the yellow arrows, but the stag became a comfort.

It followed a ‘man made’ river, passing by some huge houses – certainly a wealthy area. At times the footpath was slippery with wet mud, but I managed it without ending up like a turtle.

By midday my belly was rumbling, just as I entered Stanstead Abbots. A canal side pub ‘The Jolly Fisherman’ beckoned me in for dinner and a pint.

I was 2 miles short of Ware (according to the sign), my check-in wasn’t until 4pm. It really was a short day. I dragged my heels this morning and didn’t start until 9am, and by midday I was a 40min walk short of the stage end!

Fuelled up I continued onwards, eventually arriving into Ware, finishing at the St. Mary’s church – not quite as grand as Waltham Abbey, but their stamp is a good one, depicting the church.

As I left, the rain arrived, but I was only a 10min walk to my BnB and they allowed me to check in early!

Day two done.

Walsingham Camino Day One – Waltham Abbey

It was a fairly murky start to the day with the high rises obscured by the clouds. By 0730h I had begun my first steps on this pilgrimage.

From the church of St. Magnus the Martyr, the route followed the Thames, skirting around the Tower of London, through wharfs that have now been converted into swanky apartments, leading me to the Limehouse basin.

The difficult part of the navigation over with at this point – no more winding streets or traffic to dodge. From there on out I followed the towpath for a while until Victoria Park, where I joined the Hertford Union canal and onto the river Lea. I followed its banks all the way into Waltham Abbey.

I stopped at Tottenham at a busy little cafe for a break, before heading through the Tottenham Marshes – the locals were grumbling over the recent football score.

The path wound through the marshes always with the river in sight. Blossom on the trees acting as a distraction from the industrial scenery around.

The birds were in full song and waterfowl paddled the river, eyeing me as I passed. Once I reached Enfield Island, the rain arrived forcing me to don the waterproofs.

4km more and I arrived at the church in Waltham Abbey – the end point for day one. I popped inside to get the stamp and have a look around the beautifully decorated building. The ceiling had the signs of the zodiac and an eloquent carving behind the alter.

My stomach was rumbling at the point, and I had spotted a little pub on my way in – perfect end to the days walk. Warm, dry and a pint.

The Eve of The Walsingham Way

I arrived in the big smoke with no hassle on the eve of my Walsingham Camino. By midday I had dumped my bag off at the hostel and left, with one goal. Get the three London cathedral stamps for my passport and the stamp from St Magnus the Martyr. The starting point for the pilgrimage.

Southwark is opposite my digs, stamp collected. It is more of the traditional church style I like, no pomp, no “in your face gold leaf”. Just modest architecture.

A hop over London Bridge and I was at St. Magnus. I arrived as mass was finishing so I grabbed one of the priests before they disappeared for the stamp.

Then a short walk took me to St. Paul’s. Christopher Wrens imperial grandeur – and that it was. The huge dome depicting the life of St. Paul viewable up close from the whispering gallery.

Then on the stone gallery I was treated to panoramics of London. It was down into the crypt to see Horatio Nelson’s tomb. The man himself my local gets its name from.

Taking in the glorious sunshine, I made my way to the banks of the Thames, following it into Westminster. My final stamp of the day and completing my goal.

The Palace of Westminster clear on the banks gradually approached. I weaved through the crowds snapping selfies with the clock tower housing Big Ben.

Passed the Winston Churchill statue and up to Westminster Abbey. The national treasure, the seat where kings and queens are coronated – it’s tiny!

I expected something grand, it looks big on the TV! It was good to walk through the nave, see where the royalty had sat, witness the tombs of historical figures. Admire the portion set for the scientists – Newton, Darwin and Hawkings.

Objectives achieved I made my way back to borough market where my hostel is. Enjoyed happy hour and checked in.

Tomorrow my pilgrimage starts. Next stop Waltham Abbey.

The Walsingham Camino

I recently hosted a long distance walker Owen Charnley, who was on the home stretch of his epic journey, walking from Azerbaijan to Rochdale, raising money for Manchester homeless charities. He documented his journey on Instagram (@owen.charnley91 if you are interested in seeing his adventure).

It was a fantastic evening hearing about his adventures and geeking out over every part of the walking life — gear, blister hacks, pack weight, trail essentials, and even the way we each capture our journeys.

The following day after he set off into the rain, I got that all familiar urge to stuff my walking gear in my rucksack and begin another adventure. There is nothing I can do to sate this itch, other than set my sights on another pilgrimage – and that’s what I did.

Having not done an early spring thru-hike in some time, I booked leave for March 2026. I was tempted to zip over to Spain and get the Camino Ingles done, however it’s been a while since I did a route on home turf. One pilgrimage I have had my eye on for a while is the ‘London to Walsingham Camino’. A 270km route from the church of ‘St. Magnus the Martyr’ at London Bridge to the ‘Anglo-Saxon Shrine to the Holy House of Nazareth’ in Walsingham, Norfolk.

It passes some of London’s famous landmarks, historic shrines (some dedicated to my favourite saint himself, St. James) and through my old stomping grounds in Norfolk. A county I spent 5 years in during my early working life – it will bring back some nostalgia for sure.

The route is officially recognised by the Spanish Pilgrim Authorities as part of the Camino Ingles, and walking it before continuing the route from A Coruña or El Ferrol, will entitle you to the Compostela. It has a rich history and for a time it was the fourth popular pilgrimage in the Christian world, beaten only by Jerusalem, Rome and Santiago.

It’s conception starts in 1061; Lady Richeldis de Faverches, a noblewoman living in Walsingham, claimed to have had a vision of the home of the Virgin Mary where the annunciation of the Archangel Gabriel, foretelling Jesus’s birth occurred. She built a replica of the house in Walsingham, that later became a shrine and the destination for pilgrims from all over Europe.

It attracted Kings, Queens and commoners alike- Henry VIII being a notable royal, before he outlawed pilgrimages in 1538; for such a decision, it must have been one bad blister! It wasn’t until the 1930s when the shrine was re-established, that it saw a revival in foot traffic. Last year 350,000 or so visited the shrine at Walsingham; although this includes day visitors. Not many opt to walk the whole route, with most sticking to the last mile.

I spent a few evenings planning and booking my stops. Downloading the route to my ‘OS Maps’ app. Unlike my other long distance walks, this one isn’t waymarked – yet. I’m mostly stopping in pubs and inns. Ones that would have served the pilgrims all those years ago – the hostels have long gone. I would have like to have spent a night at the accommodation set up for pilgrims at the shrine in Walsingham, however there are no vacancies on the date I am due to arrive.

I can relax now it’s all been booked and hopefully getting to the start line will go smoothly, unlike my Sanabrés!

The Sanabrés Video

I churned this one out quicker than expected. The lessons and tricks using the video software for the ‘Norte’ one, had come in handy!

Stitching all the footage together was good fun, bringing back the experience of this solitary pilgrimage.

It was a unique Camino, one that tested me in many ways I didn’t expect – I’m quite proud of this adventure. I managed 7 days with little interaction, save for my pigeon Spanish and miming skills with the locals at the end of the day.

Long days, some unexpected, and I kept a level head as my travel plans to Granja de Moreruela unraveled – it felt like I was on an episode of ‘Race Around the World’!

The scenery had its own charm, I reckon some of the best over my travels on these ancient trails. There were many occasions I just had to stop, blown away by the landscape. Even when the path passed through the destruction of the August’s wildfires – it may have been somber, but there was something profound in that charred land.

If you have a spare hour, join me as I walk across the golden Castillian plains and climb the green (sometimes black) rolling hills of Galicia.

The Camino Sanabrés isn’t for the many. It’s for the few.

Camino Sanabrés Day 13 – Santiago de Compostela

The plan was to arrive into Santiago on Saturday. I had to keep to the schedule to complete the Sanabrés within 14 days. I went ahead of my initial Camino companions at day 3 – perhaps I could have stuck with them?

We had breakfast at 8am, hitting the road 30mins later. It was mostly quiet country roads, passing through woodland and farming villages – pretty much what sums up Galicia.

Santiago day is always one of introspection, a day you tend to be with your own thoughts, reflecting on the journey you have undertaken. Today was no different. Although I set out with Matthew, we soon found ourselves walking alone but together – only a few metres apart.

The way markers were ticking down at an ever increasing pace. I was hurtling towards the cathedral.

But the solitude of the Sanabrés held on to the last possible moment. It went through the quiet suburbs of the city, before commencing a steep climb to the centre.

This entry route I had not walked before. It passed the statue of the first pilgrim, king Alfonso. It then ducked down familiar streets, passing the entrance to the cathedral with the horse fountain, then on to Plaza Obradoiro.

The completion of this Camino of solitude. I sat in the shade of the council buildings admiring the cathedral. Cooling down from the walk and taking stock of the is unique journey. The lessons learnt and experience gained.

Getting to the start of my join ended up being a challenge, having to adapt to a fluid situation. In the end it culminated in another magical walk on the way.

Camino Sanabrés Day 12 – Ponte Ulla

A totally chilled out day ambling long. It should have been a 22km day but ended up a 30km.

The latest start for this Camino. Matthew, Luis and I agreed to meet at the restaurant in A Laxe for breakfast at 8am.

The plan was to get to Donelas, a short 22km away. The private albergue looked rustic and interesting, and since I’m now running ahead of schedule, this would make for easy going into Santiago.

After breakfast we said buen Camino to luis, and Matthew and I hit the road. It was mostly off road, typical Galician trails. The eucalyptus and pine tree forests a familiar scenery with the scents that reminds me of pilgrimage.

At midday we arrived at Bandeira, perfect time for lunch. After a leisurely meal we continued on for the last 5km at no rush.

When we arrived at Donelas, we found it had been pre booked. I always have a plan B, the next albergue was at Ponte Ulla. I asked the hospitalera to reserve beds for us.

As we were leaving Patrick from the Nederlands arrived to find the same disappointment.

Leaving Patrick to have a drink we continued on. The 7km passed quickly. The rolling Galician hills our backdrop under the clear skies. The route drops to the Rio Ulla, and over a large stone bridge into the small village.

Checked in and chores done we had a few drinks at the bar and food. Patrick joined us for a few.

I am now 21km away from Santiago. A full day ahead of schedule now. It seems silly to split this, so I’ll be arriving into Santiago tomorrow.

Camino Sanabrés Day 11 – A Laxe

Brucey bonus, I miscalculated. It was a 34km day! The route was an undulating mix of road and forest trails.

I didn’t sleep so well last night, just couldn’t get comfortable. At 5.40am I decided to get up and go. I had done Most of my packing last night, so I could get away early with it being another long day.

It had just gone 6 when I began the day’s walk. For the first 10km it was purely road, walking at a gentle incline. As dawn broke I was almost at the highest point of this stage.

By 9am I was in O Castro, the stage end where there was no room at the albergue. I had breakfast at a cafe then moved on.

I was making good time, passing through woodlands in full birdsong and following small fields of crops surrounding little farming hamlets.

The road walking wasn’t too bad having it broken up with the soft gravel paths – the feet weren’t complaining like the last few days.

At 21km I stopped at one such hamlet to rest on the green. It was a hot day requiring more water breaks. I just relaxed listening to the birds and the crickets chirping away.

I lost myself in the quietness and before I knew it I was in Boto – just in time for lunch. I thought it was 10km more from there, and decided last night, if my feet had had enough at this point I would stay at the hostel there.

After a bocadillo, I felt ready to hit the last 2hrs of the day. But I had a bit of Camino magic – or just my bad arithmetic. I was in A Laxe an hour later. It was only another 6km away!

First in the albergue. I did my chores then wondered up the road to the bar for a couple of beers. When I returned there were two new faces; Matthew from California and Luis from Salamanca, Spain.

I met them back at the bar for some food. Luis is cycling and will be zooming off tomorrow, however Matthew is a fellow walker and hasn’t decided whether he is going to aim for Santiago Friday or Saturday – potentially I have someone to share the trail with. But we all agreed to have breakfast together in the morning.

Camino Sanabrés Day 10 – Cea

It is so good to be back in the countryside, and finally get off the tarmac.

Out the traps at 7am. The hard pavement was very unwelcoming for my feet. As normal, trying to find my way out of a city is always challenging. I relied on Gronze Maps heavily.

After 2km I came to the fork in the road – one via Tamallancos the other via Canedo. I set out to go via Tamallancos due there being a restaurant halfway, a guaranteed stop.

But when I got to the point of decision I went for Canedo. Five minutes on I found a place for breakfast then trudged on by the roadside. It followed a main road north out of the city.

The noise of the traffic and the fumes weren’t making it enjoyable. I had enough of it by the time the route left this busy stretch.

At the 5km point, I followed a small but busy road on a constant gradient for the next 3km. I had to pass under the railway, using the pedestrian lights to stop the traffic, so I could go through the tunnel.

It was a constant slog to the top. But once I got there, I was rewarded with a soft gravel track through woodland. The cushioned ground heaven for my feet. I slowed my pace right down to savour the path. I had just spent a day and a third on hard surfaces.

From that point on it was mostly this type of path. It wound through the forests, interspersed with farming hamlets.

For my last hour of walking the sun finally appeared, making it feel like a lazy autumn day. By 12pm I arrived in Cea. I stopped for a drink at the local bar to wait for the albergue to open.

When I checked in, three Spanish pilgrims had already arrived. They are the ones I had been following since Lubián and presume they took a rest day in Ourense.

Chores done I went for some food then returned for a siesta to find the more pilgrims in the albergue. All looking fresh – tourigrinos. This prompted me to check ahead to see if there is space at the next stage. Full.

Which means my easy 14km day tomorrow has just become a 38km.

Camino Sanabrés Day 9 – Ourense

Even though it was a short day, it felt like the toughest.

I left just before 8am saying goodbye to Captain Pilgrim and getting a selfie with him. It was slightly misty, and the moisture in the air collected in my beard.

The path started out on soft gravel but that soon turned to tarmac. That was it for rest of the day. Hard ground to walk on.

At 3km outside a cafe I spotted Captain Pilgrim’s bike. I went in for breakfast. “You walk fast!”

From there it was a steady downhill on the roadside. The scenery wasn’t really inspiring, mostly in trees or past small farms.

At 12km my legs and feet needed a break from the pounding on the asphalt, and a cold drink at the bar in Pereiras was calling me.

The road then took me into a large industrial estate, with lorries thundering past me, making any road crossings like ‘Frogger’.

A short climb brought me into Ourense’s outskirts. The vast town nestled in the valley. On my way in more evidence of wildfires were present. The city also barely escaping the flames.

I entered the city centre, a hive of activity, people everywhere. Bit of a shock to the system having spent the last 5 days in solitude.

I found the albergue before it opened. I ordered a cold drink at the bar waiting for it to open. First and only to arrive. I was hoping there would be pilgrims, as the variant route rejoins the Sanabrés here.

I took a stroll around the city centre to scout out somewhere for food. At a bar I decided to book my stay in Santiago to find the ‘Seminario Menor’ that I usually stop at to be full. I secured a bed in another albergue, but the prices have gone crazy this year £48!