Stu's Camino

Walsingham Camino Day Twelve – Walsingham

Oh the Irony. I had it all planned out, how I was going to film the arrival. The shots and composition for the drone at the abbey. Only to find through March, the Abbey is only open at the weekends!

For the last day, I took a late start. I’d booked breakfast for 0930h to begin walking at 10. I popped into the supermarket for supplies beforehand so I was good to go.

The Sun was out, a cool breeze, I couldn’t ask for more for my final 10km of my pilgrimage. I took a very relaxed pace north out of town, joining a single track lane past an abandoned plant nursery.

After a quick stint on an ‘A’ road I was back on another quiet lane. Birdsong in the air and the Skylarks cheering me on for my last day.

I savoured the stillness and peace, something that has marked this journey. The road led me into East Barsham and then across fields into North Barsham. Where the last church I’ll visit before Walsingham, stands.

Before I Knew it, I was on the Holy Mile. The last bit into Walsingham. It’s tradition to cover this barefoot, but I felt it unwise to partake, on account of the trouble I’ve been having with my leg.

It follows a disused railway line, giving an elevated view of the countryside. I let my mind drift, thinking about this journey. It seemed months ago, since I left London Bridge, not 12 days – almost as if it was another time or world.

The route drops into Walsingham. Quaint terraced cottages lined the road into the centre of the village – frozen in time. It ends at the front door to the ‘Shrine of Our Lady of Walsingham’. A very modern building that is a stark contrast to its neighbours.

The moment I stepped into the church, the scent of incense wrapped around me, the air thick and hazy with its smoke. I had arrived in the middle of the midday service – clergy chanting in steady prayer. Candles flickered before the shrine. I paused, letting the sound and stillness settle around me.

A gentle, peaceful close to the journey, one that felt entirely in harmony with the spirit of the pilgrimage.

Walsingham Camino Day Eleven – Fakenham

This 26km stage, I was dreading with how my right shin had been reacting yesterday. However it was pretty even with road and track walking.

The kinesiology tape was out and my right leg looked like a modern art piece by the time I had finished strapping it up.

From Castle Acre the route follows the ‘Nar Valley Way’ through quiet paths and lanes. Although the sun was out, it was cold – my dexterity in my hands were sluggish, making it a challenge to fill in the visitor book at St. Andrew’s at East Lexham.

An Anglo-Saxon church that had been restored with national lottery funds. Distinctive by its round tower. Wall paintings adorned the interior. I took 10mins to rest having covered 5km – my strategy to appease my leg.

I followed the road past Lexham Hall, its country estate on either side of me. All picturesque and grand – a nice part of the world. Eventually it comes out on the main road from King Lynn into Litcham.

A road I know well from weekends cycling out to ‘The Bull Inn’, having a pint then cycling back. Had it not been 0920h when I got into the village, I would have called in for a swift half for nostalgia.

After collecting the stamp and stocking up on supplies from the local shop, I followed the route north to Tittleshall pausing for a leg break at St. Mary’s.

From there it was across fields to Godwick. A site of a medieval village; all that remains is part of the tower to the church.

Then on to Whissonsett. As I joined the road into the village, a car came to a stop and the driver asked if I was walking the Camino. It was Tim Burton — not the film director, but one of the people involved in helping establish the Walsingham Camino routes. A completely unexpected meeting with someone connected to the pilgrimage while walking it myself.

Next stop was Colkirk and the temperature dropped prompting me to put on my fleece. It was also at this point my leg started to complain. I slowed my pace and thankfully it was only a short stint on the road and soon I was cutting across fields into Fakenham.

I eased myself into the town collecting the stamp at St. Peter and St. Paul’s Church, the end point for the penultimate day.

Walsingham Camino Day Ten – Castle Acre

I’ve been so lucky with the weather thus far. Another glorious day to be walking a pilgrimage.

For breakfast, I had a very filling Scrambled egg on toast. Proper thick bread, lavished with peppered fluffy eggs. By 0820h I was energised to hit road.

I called into St. Michael’s for the stamp and followed a single track road out of the village. Which was the only problem for the day. It was majority on tarmac.

The route joined the ‘Peddars Way’, a 74 km trail that follows the line of an ancient Roman road built about 2,000 years ago – walking with history.

I slowly made my way into South Pickenham to the church only to find it closed – no stamp. I rejoined the Peddars Way towards North Pickenham, calling at the tiny church of St. Mary’s collecting the stamp. It is renowned for old murals, however it was closed today.

At North Pickenham I had a break at St. Andrew’s – disappointed it was closed. I rested in the sunlit porch watching the sleepy village.

Back on the Peddars way, there was a short section where it went dirt track. If my legs could hug the ground they would’ve. Through trees and hedgerows I made my way to the A47 outside of Swaffham.

A quick game of frogger, I was back on a single track road heading to Gt. Palgrave. Then it turns towards South and Castle Acre. At this point my right leg was very unhappy. The tarmac and camber of the road were causing a lot of pain.

I switched to walk with the traffic, dangerous, but it bought some relief. Where possible I stuck to the middle of the road where it was flattest. I aimed for every mud pile in the road for cushioning – ironic considering I was avoiding the mud earlier in my trip.

The last 3km was agony, the temptation to skip South Acre was strong, but my dogged trait to keep to the path, made me stick to the route. Although no stamp at the church, it was unique with an elaborate font and a tomb to Sir Edward Barkham. A Lord Mayor of London in 1621.

It was a painful 1.5km into Castle Acre finishing at St. James’s church, complete with scallop shell stamp. Glad to reach my BnB for the night and beating the rain.

My journey is now in the late stages. Only 36km left to Walsingham, it’s going far too quick.

Walsingham Camino Day Nine – Gt. Cressingham

Another glorious day in the sunshine, although it was even colder today. There was a layer of ice on the puddles when I first set off!

A slightly later start this morning as I popped into Aldi for supplies. The route crossed the railway into Norfolk. The final county on this pilgrimage and an area that I spent 5 years in.

I recognised the villages I passed through, nostalgia of the quiet lanes I once cycled down made me smile.

Following a farm track I came into Weeting, crossing through, past a farm and into Thetford forest. Pig farms were interspersed amongst the trees – they stared at me with ears up inquisitively.

The way delved deeper into the woods, birds sang from the branches and the golden light spilled between the trunks. Squirrels darted about through the bracken – I embraced the peace and solitude.

I took a break at Mundford, deciding to eat my packed lunch early, sunning myself on a bench in the church yard. However soon my inactivity caused me to feel the cold, prompting me to move on.

A bit of road walking followed into Ickburgh. The path criss-crosses the A1065, the main road from Swaffham to Brandon – a road I have driven down many times while living in Norfolk.

The iconic memorial to the ‘Desert Rats’, a tank division from WW2, marks their headquarters, and my next stage of the walk, over their training grounds.

The route led me to Hillborough, where a church in the middle of nowhere, clearly not regularly used on account of the cobwebs, mice and bird droppings in the nave, was the only church today with a stamp!

At this point my legs were complaining after a the last 5km being on tarmac, and I still had 5 more to go. The front muscle that runs along my right shin was letting me know about it. The camber of the road clearly causing it issues.

I hobbled in Gt. Cressingham and into the ‘Old Windmill Inn’. I plonked myself at the bar for a pint before checking in.

My room has a bath – I don’t often take baths, as with these old places it will use a lot of hot water, which is inconsiderate for other guests, but my muscles needed some indulgence – no regrets.

Walsingham Camino Day Eight – Brandon

A short lazy day, ambling in the sunshine along the banks of the River Little Ouse – my legs thanked me for it.

The stage today was only 16km according to the guide, 3 hours max I reckoned. Check out wasn’t until 1100h, I stayed in bed to about 0800h. Did some supply shopping, got my stamp from St. Cuthbert’s then Lounged in my room until boredom got to me.

At 1030h I was back on the trail. It rejoined the St. Edmunds Way along the banks of the River Little Ouse. Muntjac deer grazed in the bracken to the side of the path, not too bothered by my presence.

The air was cold and fresh; the rain and wind had hammered the window all night. Although the sun was shining and only a breeze remained, it was feeling frigid.

The route twisted and turned hugging the banks of the river until I Reached the ‘The Brecks’, where it veered away into the forest.

The smell of pine filled the air and I leisurely trekked over soft forest paths to a tiny church, All Saints at Santon Downham. A small round tower, an oddity compared to the ones I had visited so far.

Then further along the road into the hamlet centre I rejoined the Little Ouse, to follow the banks in the lazy sunshine into Brandon.

Ducks glided across the waters where the sun reflected off the ripples. Robins and Blue Tits sang from the branches above – I drank in the peace.

To enter Brandon, I had to cross a bridge over a stream that flowed into the Little Ouse. Only problem was, it was closed as unsafe. Wooden boards up to my chest blocked the way. I had to follow the stream up river and luckily found a fallen tree over the waters.

I precariously crossed it using a branch from the forest floor as a walking stick – I made it without getting my feet wet!

Glad for the easy day, tomorrow it returns to normal; a decent 26km.

Walsingham Camino Day Seven – Thetford

My mate from my years in Norfolk popped on his bike to meet me in Bury for the night, and brought a special delivery. Thanks to the wonders of internet shopping, my drone has been replaced!

We had a good catch up having not met up in 13 years! Time flies, but nothing changed, it was as if we had a couple of beers last week.

He has recently been on a mad jaunt himself, in the highlands, trying to reach Britain’s most remote pub. However he had a rough time of it and unfortunately missed last orders. As a consolation I took him to the ‘Nutshell’, the smallest pub in Britain.

Having booked a cottage in Bury, Neil kipped on the sofa and at 0630h he hit the road before the parking restrictions outside came into force.

The journey today was 100% mud free. First time since day one. It was also mostly on soft dirt paths – my legs were very pleased.

For the first 10km I pretty much did the one day walk with the British Pilgrimage Trust from about this time last year, but in reverse.

The route followed the St. Edmunds Way, along the banks of the river Lark. The waterfowl my companions for this stretch. I called in at St Mary’s in Culford for the stamp, then pressed on.

That was the last bit of civilisation until Thetford. From there it followed Byways and forest tracks. The strong winds causing the tree tops to creak and twigs cover the path.

While passing a ploughed field, plumes of ochre filled the air, whipped up by the gusts of wind. The smell of earth filled my nostrils as I squinted to keep the grit from my eyes.

The change of scenery also brought a change in wildlife. I saw a badger, deer and hares. Pheasants startled and flapped from the hedgerows and bracken as I passed – I still managed to spot a Skylark.

The kilometres passed with ease and before I knew it I was following the Little Ouse river into Thetford – day seven done.

Walsingham Camino Day Six – Bury St. Edmunds

It has been a rewarding day but also brutal, 38km the longest day of my planned routes for this Camino.

I was up at 0550h. I didn’t get much sleep from noise of the traffic outside and fellow residents walking up and down the corridor all night, over very creaky floorboards. But you get what you pay for – £40 for the night.

An hour later I set off. The sun was out, blue sky could be seen between the fluffy clouds and a fresh wind at my back – perfect walking conditions.

Mostly quiet country lanes with the occasional jaunt across some fields, sums up this stage. By 0900h I arrived into Hundon, 10km in, too early for the church to be open – no stamp.

I had some snacks on a bench in the yard then moved on. I passed through little villages and collected the stamps from the churches – St. Mary’s at Hawkedon was a cool one.

I ploughed on in the glorious sunshine. Again immersed in the countryside, skylarks singing above and enjoying every minute – the skylarks are becoming a symbol of this pilgrimage for me.

At 1040h I arrived into Stansfield taking a break at All Saints church – unfortunately no stamp. If you follow the guide book, this is the stage end, but there are no BnBs here, hence me doing two stages today.

For such a grand building it is very modest inside – another victim to Cromwells puritanism. The churchwarden commented that it once had elaborate stained glass windows, now only one remains.

Fuelled up I continued on, the path very much in the same vein as this morning. More little villages with tiny churches, fields of sprouting crop swaying in the wind.

At Whepstead I had another break, sunning myself on a bench, only 9km to go at that point. My legs were feeling tired and feet a little sore with all the road walking – they were thankful for the rest.

The kilometres slipped away, as did my energy levels. I was popping my Haribo stash like they were going out of fashion.

The route joins the ‘St. Edmund Way’ into Bury, making it easy to navigate without my map. Soon the city came into view and the central tower of the cathedral.

At 1530h I arrived, welcomed by one of the volunteers. Impressed with my long walk today. She showed me to a seat to rest my legs.

My legs and feet took a beating today but everything was on my side. Considering today was originally forecasted to rain – it just reinforced one of my mottos on pilgrimages, when looking at rain on the weather app, “it may never happen”.

I also think there is another lesson in there.

Walsingham Camino Day Five – Havershill

The first bit of sun on the walk, the views have finally revealed themselves – if only I had a drone to capture them.

A quick breakfast then I was out the doors at 0800h. I made my way to the start of the stage and headed Northeast out of the town into the countryside.

The sun chased the clouds away, the murk only in the distance. I ambled along, I felt like taking a slow pace today. Enjoying the views and the Skylarks singing overhead.

Mostly over fields followed into Ashdon. As I arrived, the church warden was opening up, he showed me to the stamps and invited me to the coffee morning in the church hall.

In keeping with my slow, relaxed day, I took him up on his offer. I joined half a dozen of the parishioners, a black lab and the vicar for a cup of tea.

Keen to know of my journey, I happily regaled them of my pilgrimage so far, and the road ahead. After half an hour I continued on, grateful for the pause and friendly company.

The sun was fully out now at this point, warming my back. I rejoined the Skylarks and strolled on to Bartlow. On my approach I came across three towering mounds – the size of houses. They are Roman burial mounds, some of the highest in Britain.

From there I stopped at another St Mary’s church where I ate my dinner. The walls have faded paintings – one depicting a dragon.

Turns out. Prior to the English civil war, there were elaborate paintings, however William Dowsing, one of Cromwells assiduous iconoclasts, order their destruction and the removal of crosses and other religious items.

In the years later they repainted the walls, the dragon would have been George and the dragon, but old George has faded away, leaving only the giant serpent.

From there, a bit of road walking followed before cutting across fields into Horseheath. The glorious sun was urging me to find a beer garden, and I obliged, stopping for a pint at the Red Lion.

The last 5km took me along an old Roman road into Withersfield, completing the stage and the Cambridgeshire bit at….. St Mary’s church.

The pews had different wooden carvings, I found George and his dragon.

A short walk into Havershill for the night marked my crossing into Suffolk. Tomorrow is a big one. I’m covering two stages in one day, due to no accommodation in Stansfield, the end of the next stage.

Walsingham Camino Day Four – Saffron Walden

There are always highs and lows on pilgrimages, and not always about the topography.

I was shattered yesterday, the whole day of walking in the mud had sapped my energy. Once I had my evening meal I was in bed by 1930h – out like a light.

When 0700h came round I was rejuvenated and ready to hit stage 4. Another murky and misty day but it added to the atmosphere.

Mostly country roads to ‘Ugley Green’ where there was a tricky muddy bit. I met a couple walking their friendly Golden Retriever Dog. They enquired about my journey and filled me in with some local history.

The next village along ‘Ugley’ has a women’s institute. It is the only one that is allowed to have the location after the “institute”. It’s not proper to have the “Ugley Women’s Institute”!

From there I made my way to ‘Widdington’ having a look around St. Mary’s church and collecting the stamp. From there, over fields led me to ‘Newport’ where I stopped at St. Mary’s church and ate my packed lunch.

A gentle walk to Wendens Ambo, past another St. Mary’s church – although this one is closed on weekdays. Then onwards to Saffron Walden following the Saffron Trail.

Through a park into the town centre and on to the – you guessed it – St. Mary’s church, the end point for this stage. I grabbed the stamp and headed to my BnB.

I took off my pack and realised my drone wasn’t attached. I went through my videos on my phone and the last point I could see it, was 3km back.

I retraced my path but no luck. Someone now has had a good day. It would have been a good story if I had lost it in a spectacular fashion; maybe a hawk attack or it got fried on a pylon, but no, it fell off my pack.

On pilgrimages sometimes things get lost, but the walk itself continues.

There is a lesson in there somewhere.

Walsingham Camino Day Three – Stanstead Mountfitchet

Mud is the word best to describe today’s stage. I had another lazy start, beginning my walk at about 0830h.

The route rejoined the Hertfordshire Way, which it followed all the way to Bishop’s Stortford.

Not a towpath in sight – proper countryside walking. The trade off was the mud, the worst claggy type. Slippery underfoot and sticks to your boots.

It made the trek tricky, each step was taken in care and my legs were telling me about it. Thankfully there was a bit of respite on the climb into Widford, where I paused at the church for a snack, overlooking the valley below.

I followed the path down and back to the mud. After a small wooded section amongst the birdsong, I came into ‘Much Hadham’ where the road was flooded. A steady stream flowed down one side, over ankle deep.

Typically, I needed to cross it, but there was no way around. I consulted my map and opted for an alternative route.

I stopped for my packed lunch in the village before pressing on. More mud followed and by the time I reached Bishop’s Stortford, I had had enough.

Not wanting to stop, I pressed on – the stage end and a pint were in my crosshairs! Unfortunately I hadn’t taken in much of the scenery today. The ground took my concentration and attention, but it’s all part of the challenge.

Just after 1400h I arrived at my BnB for the night, glad for a warm shower and no mud!