The Walsingham Camino

I recently hosted a long distance walker Owen Charnley, who was on the home stretch of his epic journey, walking from Azerbaijan to Rochdale, raising money for Manchester homeless charities. He documented his journey on Instagram (@owen.charnley91 if you are interested in seeing his adventure).

It was a fantastic evening hearing about his adventures and geeking out over every part of the walking life — gear, blister hacks, pack weight, trail essentials, and even the way we each capture our journeys.

The following day after he set off into the rain, I got that all familiar urge to stuff my walking gear in my rucksack and begin another adventure. There is nothing I can do to sate this itch, other than set my sights on another pilgrimage – and that’s what I did.

Having not done an early spring thru-hike in some time, I booked leave for March 2026. I was tempted to zip over to Spain and get the Camino Ingles done, however it’s been a while since I did a route on home turf. One pilgrimage I have had my eye on for a while is the ‘London to Walsingham Camino’. A 270km route from the church of ‘St. Magnus the Martyr’ at London Bridge to the ‘Anglo-Saxon Shrine to the Holy House of Nazareth’ in Walsingham, Norfolk.

It passes some of London’s famous landmarks, historic shrines (some dedicated to my favourite saint himself, St. James) and through my old stomping grounds in Norfolk. A county I spent 5 years in during my early working life – it will bring back some nostalgia for sure.

The route is officially recognised by the Spanish Pilgrim Authorities as part of the Camino Ingles, and walking it before continuing the route from A Coruña or El Ferrol, will entitle you to the Compostela. It has a rich history and for a time it was the fourth popular pilgrimage in the Christian world, beaten only by Jerusalem, Rome and Santiago.

It’s conception starts in 1061; Lady Richeldis de Faverches, a noblewoman living in Walsingham, claimed to have had a vision of the home of the Virgin Mary where the annunciation of the Archangel Gabriel, foretelling Jesus’s birth occurred. She built a replica of the house in Walsingham, that later became a shrine and the destination for pilgrims from all over Europe.

It attracted Kings, Queens and commoners alike- Henry VIII being a notable royal, before he outlawed pilgrimages in 1538; for such a decision, it must have been one bad blister! It wasn’t until the 1930s when the shrine was re-established, that it saw a revival in foot traffic. Last year 350,000 or so visited the shrine at Walsingham; although this includes day visitors. Not many opt to walk the whole route, with most sticking to the last mile.

I spent a few evenings planning and booking my stops. Downloading the route to my ‘OS Maps’ app. Unlike my other long distance walks, this one isn’t waymarked – yet. I’m mostly stopping in pubs and inns. Ones that would have served the pilgrims all those years ago – the hostels have long gone. I would have like to have spent a night at the accommodation set up for pilgrims at the shrine in Walsingham, however there are no vacancies on the date I am due to arrive.

I can relax now it’s all been booked and hopefully getting to the start line will go smoothly, unlike my Sanabrés!

The Sanabrés Video

I churned this one out quicker than expected. The lessons and tricks using the video software for the ‘Norte’ one, had come in handy!

Stitching all the footage together was good fun, bringing back the experience of this solitary pilgrimage.

It was a unique Camino, one that tested me in many ways I didn’t expect – I’m quite proud of this adventure. I managed 7 days with little interaction, save for my pigeon Spanish and miming skills with the locals at the end of the day.

Long days, some unexpected, and I kept a level head as my travel plans to Granja de Moreruela unraveled – it felt like I was on an episode of ‘Race Around the World’!

The scenery had its own charm, I reckon some of the best over my travels on these ancient trails. There were many occasions I just had to stop, blown away by the landscape. Even when the path passed through the destruction of the August’s wildfires – it may have been somber, but there was something profound in that charred land.

If you have a spare hour, join me as I walk across the golden Castillian plains and climb the green (sometimes black) rolling hills of Galicia.

The Camino Sanabrés isn’t for the many. It’s for the few.

Camino Sanabrés Day 13 – Santiago de Compostela

The plan was to arrive into Santiago on Saturday. I had to keep to the schedule to complete the Sanabrés within 14 days. I went ahead of my initial Camino companions at day 3 – perhaps I could have stuck with them?

We had breakfast at 8am, hitting the road 30mins later. It was mostly quiet country roads, passing through woodland and farming villages – pretty much what sums up Galicia.

Santiago day is always one of introspection, a day you tend to be with your own thoughts, reflecting on the journey you have undertaken. Today was no different. Although I set out with Matthew, we soon found ourselves walking alone but together – only a few metres apart.

The way markers were ticking down at an ever increasing pace. I was hurtling towards the cathedral.

But the solitude of the Sanabrés held on to the last possible moment. It went through the quiet suburbs of the city, before commencing a steep climb to the centre.

This entry route I had not walked before. It passed the statue of the first pilgrim, king Alfonso. It then ducked down familiar streets, passing the entrance to the cathedral with the horse fountain, then on to Plaza Obradoiro.

The completion of this Camino of solitude. I sat in the shade of the council buildings admiring the cathedral. Cooling down from the walk and taking stock of the is unique journey. The lessons learnt and experience gained.

Getting to the start of my join ended up being a challenge, having to adapt to a fluid situation. In the end it culminated in another magical walk on the way.

Patrick, Matthew and me

Camino Sanabrés Day 12 – Ponte Ulla

A totally chilled out day ambling long. It should have been a 22km day but ended up a 30km.

The latest start for this Camino. Matthew, Luis and I agreed to meet at the restaurant in A Laxe for breakfast at 8am.

The plan was to get to Donelas, a short 22km away. The private albergue looked rustic and interesting, and since I’m now running ahead of schedule, this would make for easy going into Santiago.

After breakfast we said buen Camino to luis, and Matthew and I hit the road. It was mostly off road, typical Galician trails. The eucalyptus and pine tree forests a familiar scenery with the scents that reminds me of pilgrimage.

At midday we arrived at Bandeira, perfect time for lunch. After a leisurely meal we continued on for the last 5km at no rush.

When we arrived at Donelas, we found it had been pre booked. I always have a plan B, the next albergue was at Ponte Ulla. I asked the hospitalera to reserve beds for us.

As we were leaving Patrick from the Nederlands arrived to find the same disappointment.

Leaving Patrick to have a drink we continued on. The 7km passed quickly. The rolling Galician hills our backdrop under the clear skies. The route drops to the Rio Ulla, and over a large stone bridge into the small village.

Checked in and chores done we had a few drinks at the bar and food. Patrick joined us for a few.

I am now 21km away from Santiago. A full day ahead of schedule now. It seems silly to split this, so I’ll be arriving into Santiago tomorrow.

Camino Sanabrés Day 11 – A Laxe

Brucey bonus, I miscalculated. It was a 34km day! The route was an undulating mix of road and forest trails.

I didn’t sleep so well last night, just couldn’t get comfortable. At 5.40am I decided to get up and go. I had done Most of my packing last night, so I could get away early with it being another long day.

It had just gone 6 when I began the day’s walk. For the first 10km it was purely road, walking at a gentle incline. As dawn broke I was almost at the highest point of this stage.

By 9am I was in O Castro, the stage end where there was no room at the albergue. I had breakfast at a cafe then moved on.

I was making good time, passing through woodlands in full birdsong and following small fields of crops surrounding little farming hamlets.

The road walking wasn’t too bad having it broken up with the soft gravel paths – the feet weren’t complaining like the last few days.

At 21km I stopped at one such hamlet to rest on the green. It was a hot day requiring more water breaks. I just relaxed listening to the birds and the crickets chirping away.

I lost myself in the quietness and before I knew it I was in Boto – just in time for lunch. I thought it was 10km more from there, and decided last night, if my feet had had enough at this point I would stay at the hostel there.

After a bocadillo, I felt ready to hit the last 2hrs of the day. But I had a bit of Camino magic – or just my bad arithmetic. I was in A Laxe an hour later. It was only another 6km away!

First in the albergue. I did my chores then wondered up the road to the bar for a couple of beers. When I returned there were two new faces; Matthew from California and Luis from Salamanca, Spain.

I met them back at the bar for some food. Luis is cycling and will be zooming off tomorrow, however Matthew is a fellow walker and hasn’t decided whether he is going to aim for Santiago Friday or Saturday – potentially I have someone to share the trail with. But we all agreed to have breakfast together in the morning.

Camino Sanabrés Day 10 – Cea

It is so good to be back in the countryside, and finally get off the tarmac.

Out the traps at 7am. The hard pavement was very unwelcoming for my feet. As normal, trying to find my way out of a city is always challenging. I relied on Gronze Maps heavily.

After 2km I came to the fork in the road – one via Tamallancos the other via Canedo. I set out to go via Tamallancos due there being a restaurant halfway, a guaranteed stop.

But when I got to the point of decision I went for Canedo. Five minutes on I found a place for breakfast then trudged on by the roadside. It followed a main road north out of the city.

The noise of the traffic and the fumes weren’t making it enjoyable. I had enough of it by the time the route left this busy stretch.

At the 5km point, I followed a small but busy road on a constant gradient for the next 3km. I had to pass under the railway, using the pedestrian lights to stop the traffic, so I could go through the tunnel.

It was a constant slog to the top. But once I got there, I was rewarded with a soft gravel track through woodland. The cushioned ground heaven for my feet. I slowed my pace right down to savour the path. I had just spent a day and a third on hard surfaces.

From that point on it was mostly this type of path. It wound through the forests, interspersed with farming hamlets.

For my last hour of walking the sun finally appeared, making it feel like a lazy autumn day. By 12pm I arrived in Cea. I stopped for a drink at the local bar to wait for the albergue to open.

When I checked in, three Spanish pilgrims had already arrived. They are the ones I had been following since Lubián and presume they took a rest day in Ourense.

Chores done I went for some food then returned for a siesta to find the more pilgrims in the albergue. All looking fresh – tourigrinos. This prompted me to check ahead to see if there is space at the next stage. Full.

Which means my easy 14km day tomorrow has just become a 38km.

Camino Sanabrés Day 9 – Ourense

Even though it was a short day, it felt like the toughest.

I left just before 8am saying goodbye to Captain Pilgrim and getting a selfie with him. It was slightly misty, and the moisture in the air collected in my beard.

The path started out on soft gravel but that soon turned to tarmac. That was it for rest of the day. Hard ground to walk on.

At 3km outside a cafe I spotted Captain Pilgrim’s bike. I went in for breakfast. “You walk fast!”

From there it was a steady downhill on the roadside. The scenery wasn’t really inspiring, mostly in trees or past small farms.

At 12km my legs and feet needed a break from the pounding on the asphalt, and a cold drink at the bar in Pereiras was calling me.

The road then took me into a large industrial estate, with lorries thundering past me, making any road crossings like ‘Frogger’.

A short climb brought me into Ourense’s outskirts. The vast town nestled in the valley. On my way in more evidence of wildfires were present. The city also barely escaping the flames.

I entered the city centre, a hive of activity, people everywhere. Bit of a shock to the system having spent the last 5 days in solitude.

I found the albergue before it opened. I ordered a cold drink at the bar waiting for it to open. First and only to arrive. I was hoping there would be pilgrims, as the variant route rejoins the Sanabrés here.

I took a stroll around the city centre to scout out somewhere for food. At a bar I decided to book my stay in Santiago to find the ‘Seminario Menor’ that I usually stop at to be full. I secured a bed in another albergue, but the prices have gone crazy this year £48!

Camino Sanabrés Day 8 – Xunquiera de Ambía

The hill wasn’t as bad as my drunken friend last night portrayed. A day of great views and surprisingly, a few watering holes along the way.

At 7am I dropped the albergue keys off at the ambulance station then hit the Camino. For the first 1.5 hours it was flat, mostly road walking.

Once at Tamícelas the up hill section began. I managed to get to it before the sun crested the surrounding mountains. When it finally did, I was near the top and above the clouds.

The views were some of the best since entering Galicia. Before I knew it, I was entering Alberguería. The bar was open – although no proper food, they sold cakes and fruit. Every available space on the walls and ceiling were covered in scallop shells, signed by visiting pilgrims – the oldest one I saw was 2004!

A slight rise took me to the highest point for the day, then it was a sharp downwards route revealing the wide open valley below.

My knees were complaining when I reached Vilar de Barrío. The village centre had numerous bars with all the outside seating taken. I continued on.

Bóveda, a village a short stroll away had a bar with plenty of space. A cold drink and an empanada later I pressed on. The sun was now at full strength and the route entered a long straight gravel road.

For about 4km I baked, but the route after that went through forest tracks, shaded from the sun. After 34km I arrived at the albergue, shortly after joined by a cyclist peregrino – the first pilgrim I have seen since Rionegro.

We found a restaurant that had a pilgrims menu. Turns out he is a captain in the Spanish navy. He has been cycling from Cadiz and in two days he’ll be in Santiago.

Tomorrow is a short 21km, which I am pleased for. I have pulled some long distances in the last 4 days. I’ll also be in a town, and hopefully some more peregrinos.

Camino Sanabrés Day 7 – Laza

A whole day in the mountains of Galicia, with rolling green hills as far as the eye could see. The best thing of all, it was a very gentle ascent.

The alarm didn’t have a chance, I was up at 5.50am. I decided to get ready and head off. A complete different experience to last nights albergue. I was out the door just before 7.

Once out of the town it was pitch black requiring the head torch. I was passing a small holding and heard a rustle to my left. In the torchlight I saw two eyes glowing and a muzzle. Could this be the Iberian wolf? No, it barked, it was just a farm dog.

By the time the daylight arrived I had gone beyond yesterday’s flame grilled earth and amongst the mountains. The route followed a road high above the huge reservoir ‘Portas’.

The only issue was, it was tarmac walking. In fact, I reckon 90% of today was by road. My feet took a beating, but it was worth it for the views.

Again I was in no rush. I was soaking in the silence and peace. Apart from the sound of my footsteps and the occasional bird. There was nothing to be heard.

At Bolaño I stopped at a picnic bench overlooking the rolling hills. I had done 13km and felt the need for some snacks. It was bliss.

A gradual decline along the road giving great views of the reservoir got me to Campobecerros, with the promise of a cold drink and food. Unfortunately only the former was on offer.

A short up climb through Portocamba finally took me off the road onto a forest gravel track. It hugged the mountain side with constant views of the valley to my right.

Each corner had picturesque scenery. At ‘As Eiras’ I was back on the road for the last 6km into Laza. Known for its festival where the villagers wear huge hats with animals painted on them.

I had to check in at the ambulance station for the albergue; getting the keys to the building. Again I’ll be the only peregrino stopping the night – this is now day 4 without seeing a pilgrim.

Chores done I had a walk around the village. The shop closed at 2.30pm and the restaurant didn’t open until 6pm. I went for a siesta.

At 6 I went in search for a beer. Everything was still closed except for a small back alley taberna. An inebriated Spaniard was propping up the bar. Tattoos all down his arms, neck and knuckles. Hooped earrings.

I had already entered. I ordered a caña. Impressed I went for a big beer, he struck up a conversation. This really put my pigeon Spanish to the test.

90% of what he said – no idea. But what I did get, he is visiting his mum. Lives in Switzerland. Loves heavy heavy metal music and gave me the low down for tomorrow’s stage.

I then asked him about somewhere to eat. He took me to a local restaurant that is open! One not on google maps. I bought him a drink for his time.

The Camino magic didn’t stop there. This weekend there is a tradition where local singers bring their instruments to bars and serenade the patrons.

After some food I retired for the night. Tomorrow’s stage is a tough one.

Camino Sanabrés Day 6 – A Gudiña

It was a little spooky to say the least last night. Alone in an albergue that has lights dangling by the wires and sockets hanging from the fittings. Coupled with being in the middle of rural Spain and owls hooting outside – I’m sure I’ve seen a horror film like this?!

At 7.30am I was power walking back on the Camino before someone wears my skin for a coat. It was a gentle down hill start for a couple of kilometres before a long steep ascent. The path wound up through the woods, thankfully it was easier than yesterday.

At the top I crossed into Galicia. It felt like coming home. The biggest hill of the day conquered, light cloud cover and a down hill stretch on soft gravel paths – perfect.

I ambled along in no rush, after all it’s a short 23km today. I reached the tiny hamlet of A Canda. That’s when I was taken by surprise.

The green lichen covered trees were replaced by charred black stalks – the aftermath of August’s wildfires. The fields around were black, trees with soot stained trunks clung onto brown dead leafs, giving an odd autumnal effect.

There were small pockets where nature had survived the carnage – green islands in a sea of black. This was the scenery for the next 15km into A Gudiña.

I passed a few small villages miraculously still intact. literally the scorched earth stopped at the stone farm walls at the village borders.

The path was easy to follow, the soft yellow gravel was stark to the blackened earth. The route undulated over what I can only guess were fells. I got to a high point, giving panoramic views of the devastation.

It was black all the way to the surrounding mountains. I’ve never seen such destruction in person before. You don’t get the same scope or feeling from the news reels.

I continued on as the clouds dispersed leaving me no shade from the sun. It got very hot, something weirdly fitting for my environs.

But nature, ever the resilient. Merendera started to grow from the charred ground. This hardy flower seems to grow in places you wouldn’t think possible. A plant I saw often on the Francés, and one I took as a good omen.

At 1.30pm I arrived at my destination for the day – looks like I’ll be having this Albergue to myself again, although this one is operated by the local authority. A complete polar opposite to last nights.

It’s all modern and clean. Even has washing machines! The hospitalera said there were only three peregrinos last night – the 3 Spaniards I spotted in the guest book at Lubián.