Camino del Norte Day 12 – Castro Urdiales to Laredo

The difference the Sun makes to a day of walking cannot be understated. Blue skies all the way today!

It’s a small hill to tackle straight off the bat giving views back at Castro Urdiales and along the coastline ahead. Eventually it dropped to the coast, passing through a grove with goats weaving through the trunks.

Following the rugged shore high above, the sea to my right and mountains to my left, I was in heaven. Every 100 metres was a new view – I was in my element and happy.

The way joins the main coastal road unfortunately, but I was treated to a panoramic view of a sandy bay with surfers catching the waves.

The route splits at this point, the official way and the coastal way. I listened to my gut and went up the hill away from the shore – I wasn’t going to repeat yesterday’s experience. Despite having done 10km already, the sign said 22km to Laredo, and over 5hrs walk – challenge excepted.

Quiet country roads ensued, the traffic mostly cyclists, far better than the main road. When I got to Rioseco, I was ready for a cold drink. I pulled into a bar and there was Lina and Marcus, Camino magic!

The three of us walked out of the village to tackle the biggest of today’s hills, and my companion’s last; they are catching the bus at the next village to return to Bilbao. I took a goodbye selfie and I began the ascent.

Through the eucalyptus wood, it led me to a secluded hamlet and down to an equally remote valley with stunning views – the landscape has changed since entering the Cantabria region.

The route drops into the village Sopeña where I caught up with Jürgen. He was struggling with a pain in the front of his leg. Spotting a shaded bench in a park, we pulled over and I passed him some ibuprofen gel.

When I reached the next village, it was time for a cold beer. I stopped at the bar joining a table with Connie from Seattle. She is going to Santiago and started in Bayonne, the same day as me! Shortly after we were joined by Tim from Indiana, who too is going all the way.

The second hill of the day followed which lead back to the main road, that I had to follow for a while before the official route veers off. Again through tiny hamlets and quiet roads, I enjoyed the peace.

Before long I arrived into Laredo (5 hours 49 minutes in total – I beat that sign!) stopping at the Donitivo ‘Casa de la Trinidad’. A convent, but now an albergue, but still run by the nuns. I was warmly greeted and given a cool glass of lemon water, just what I needed for this scorching day.

Once chores were done, I headed out to a bar Neill had already scouted. Outside was Lina and Marcus, their connecting bus back to Bilbao would be picking them up there. Camino magic! – This time we said our final Camino goodbyes.

At 1800h I attended the pilgrims blessing, where the nuns sang angelic songs and individually blessed the peregrinos in attendance – a magical moment.

For dinner myself, Jürgen, Vanessa, Neill and John went to a nearby restaurant, where we discussed tomorrow’s plans. It’s a long one!