Camino Francés Day 1 – SJPD to Roncesvalles

My sleep was almost non-existant last night. The window was closed forming a hot box and I had my first encounter with the dreaded snorer. This was also coupled with my excitement for starting the Camino.

At 0700 I jumped from my top bunk to get some breakfast. I ended up chatting to a chap from London called Matt who’s next stop is Orisson, my half way point for the day. Another chap from Ireland (I didn’t catch his name) is planning on doing as much as possible in 2 weeks; he’s planning 30km days!

After finishing my breakfast I packed my gear and headed to the pilgrims office to pick up my credentials. This is a passport that is stamped each day at your albergue.

The most important stamp and the first was for the St. Jean office. I put a donation in the tub and collected my scallop shell that is tradition to adorn your backpack.

As I left I bumped in to Sophie from the Netherlands who was in the bottom bunk in the Gite. We got chatting and decided to be walking buddies. She was also bound for Orisson.

We set off and passed under the bell tower then crossed the iconic bridge that marks the start of the Camino.

We left St. Jean behind climbing out of the town and joined a small country road that steepened fiercely.

The sun was out giving excellent views of the Pyrenees. However it was tough going, to see those views; the incline was devilish.

We arrived at Orisson where we had a bite to eat and a cold drink. We wished each other a safe journey and we parted ways.

The severe incline continued on the small road, barely able to fit two cars abreast; there was a surprising amount of traffic.

After about 8 miles the road leveled and from here on it undulated, until it was time to follow a footpath up another steep section.

The path rounded the peak and descended into a woodland that offered shade from the midday sun. Up to my left, a line of horses that had cattle bells dangling from their necks, were making their way through the trees. There was no sound but the ringing of their bells. There was something quite magical about.

It wasn’t long before I came up to another iconic mile stone. The waymarker detailing how far to Santiago. 100 metres from that I crossed into Spain.

The undulating path continued until I reached the pinnacle of the Pyrenees section to mark my decent to Roncesvalles. In the distance amoungst the haze you could see the windfarm indicating Pamplona. I’ll be there two days from now.

I began the descent opting for the more gentler route and as I rounded a corner, Ronvevalles came into view for the first time. This gave me a spert of energy, much needed at this point.

I soon entered the woodland offering more protection from the sun and strode into Roncesvalles. I’ll be staying in the old monestry, the same place Napoleon stopped when he entered Spain for one of his wars.