October 2026, I took my mum and brother on the Camino Portugués following the coastal path, an alternative to the central route I walked in 2022. Starting in Porto walking the 280km to Santiago de Compostela.
Unlike my previous Caminos, I didn’t travel this one solo. I took my mum and brother on this dramatic pilgrimage following the Atlantic coast. This was my brother’s first ever Camino and my mum’s second, but longest one. I took them under my wing and led them across two countries, a speedboat crossing and introducing them to the pilgrim life.
Video to follow of this adventure.
Following the Atlantic, teaching the Way
The Camino Portugués – Coastal
This year has been packed with adventures and pilgrimages, starting with the Walsingham Camino in March, The St. James Way in June and the short St. Alkelda’s Way in July. What better way to cap off the year than returning to continent!? Four years ago on this day I was in Porto embarking on my second ever Camino. In September I’ll be returning, only instead of taking the central route where the August Sun baked…
Camino Portugués – Coastal Day 1 – Porto to Labruge
It’s always a good feeling to return to the Camino, and to tread along a familiar path from 2022, was like slipping on your comfy shoes. Just after 8am we left the cathedral making our way to the river Douro. The banks teaming with runners, making the walking more like a slalom course. We passed under the bridges connecting Porto to Gaia, steadily making our way to the Atlantic. Joining the promenade it was easy…
Camino Portugués – Coastal Day 2 – Labruge to Póvoa de Varzim
This stage was a short easy one, with a cooling sea breeze and cloud cover keeping the sun off us; perfect walking weather. We had a lazy start, having breakfast at a pastelería near the albergue, taking our time. It was close to 9am when we started walking. Back on to the boardwalk along the sandy beaches. The sea breeze keeping everything pleasant. We climbed a small rocky out crop to get panoramic views along…
Camino Portugués – Coastal Day 3 – Póvoa de Varzim to Marinhas
An Atlantic wind was our companion for today, as well as a few spattering of showers, keeping the walking comfortable. We were out dead on 7am, knowing we have one of the longer stages ahead. There was a very light shower to begin with, that kept coming and going for the first 30mins or so. We followed the promenade north eventually joining the boardwalk. The sea was choppy with some impressive waves, where gulls skimmed…
Camino Portugués – Coastal Day 4 – Marinhas to Viana do Castelo
The first inclines and rain of the pilgrimage arrived today as we moved from the coast to an inland section. It had lashed it down during the night giving the morning a refreshing air. I began walking with Anastasia from Russia until I caught up with my mum and brother. We called into a cafe for breakfast and by the time we finished the rain returned. Poncho time! The route left the quiet villages into…
Camino Portugués – Coastal Day 5 – Viana do Castelo to Caminha
The longest and last day in Portugal, tomorrow we cross into Spain. The air was cold when I left the albergue at 7am. I was tempted to don my gloves, but I stuck it out. The route winds its way through the town and up a little, leading into Areosa. I caught Pete and mum up outside a cafe; their accommodation was further into town than mine. The path pretty much followed cobbled village roads…
Camino Portugués – Coastal Day 6 – Caminha to Porto Mougás
Speed boat fun and missing hours. Bienvenido a España. Just after 7am we made our way to the launch spot for the speed boat to take us over into Spain. In a trip that took minutes, we time traveled an hour ahead. The route lead us over a wooded hill into A Guarda, where we stopped for breakfast. By the time we left the town it was close to 10am and we’d only covered a…
Camino Portugués – Coastal Day 7 – Porto Mougás to Sabaris
An easy short day along the Atlantic coast and finished by lunch! We left at 8am with it being a 13km day, with dawn just about to arrive. The air was cool by the coast, the sea mist clinging to the shore. After 2km we had breakfast at a cafe on a campsite. The owner of the apartment we stayed at, advised us to stick to the coastal road into Baiona. There is a lighthouse…
Camino Portugués – Coastal Day 8 – Sabaris to Vigo
First proper pre-dawn start and we hit the big port city of Vigo, with its extensive dockyards and steep steps! The albergue was one of the best for this trip so far, only negatives were, one toilet for each sex for entire place and the dryer, didn’t dry – had flash backs to my stay at Roncevalles! Each bunk was complete with a curtain, electrical point, light and locker I was ready for 6.45am however…
Camino Portugués – Coastal Day 9 – Vigo to Arcade
This for me was the hardest day on all my Caminos so far. It was a struggle. I had eaten something that didn’t agree with me. I vomited a couple of times during the night, no sleep and everything ached. Another pre-dawn start, making our way through the city under street lights. When we finally reached the outskirts, there was a very aggressive hill, that took us up to the villages that sit on the…
Camino Portugués – Coastal Day 10 – Arcade to Pontevedra
Another yellow weather warning for rain and a slow improvement for the shortest day on this pilgrimage. No aches and the nausea had gone when I woke, even able to eat at satsuma and some blueberries, but anything more would have been too much; improvement from the day before. It was a late start on account of the location to drop mum’s luggage off for the transport service, didn’t open until 8.30am. Following the route…
Camino Portugués – Coastal Day 11 – Pontevedra to Caldas de Rei
The first day since Vigo that I fully felt normal, and an easy days walk into the town known for its thermal baths. The albergue was a rarity, it included breakfast and I was able to eat! We left under the street lamps crossing the bridge the town is named for, heading to the railway line which the route follows for most of the morning. The climbs were negligible. The Way was mostly through quiet…
Camino Portugués – Coastal Day 12 – Caldas de Rei to Padrón
Ready in 15mins, tourigrino woes and stopping in a little gem of a place; just a shame we couldn’t keep it for a second night. Someone’s alarm went off at 4am in the albergue. I turned over knowing I had two more hours of sleep. When I opened my eyes again it was 6.45am. We’d agreed to start walking at 7! As a true pilgrim, I had done most my packing before bed, to minimise…
Camino Portugués – Coastal Day 13 – Padrón
We took a rest day in Padrón in order to arrive in Santiago on Saturday. This was to avoid the crowds and accommodation issues caused be the medical convention being hosted in the city. After a glorious late morning sleep in, we headed into the town centre to do some washing and eat breakfast at a local cafeteria. We looked around the St. James Church, to see the mooring post, said to be the one…
Camino Portugués – Coastal Day 14 – Padrón to Santiago de Compostela
Santiago Day! Our last day on the Camino again started before dawn, however the route starts through urban areas and main roads that were sufficiently lit to keep our torches packed. By the time we left the sodium lamps, dawn was breaking. The route seemed busier than the previous days, perhaps those who would’ve started later, all wanted to leave earlier to get to Santiago sooner. The route was easy, alternating from paved and soft…
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