It is so good to be back in the countryside, and finally get off the tarmac.
Out the traps at 7am. The hard pavement was very unwelcoming for my feet. As normal, trying to find my way out of a city is always challenging. I relied on Gronze Maps heavily.
After 2km I came to the fork in the road – one via Tamallancos the other via Canedo. I set out to go via Tamallancos due there being a restaurant halfway, a guaranteed stop.
But when I got to the point of decision I went for Canedo. Five minutes on I found a place for breakfast then trudged on by the roadside. It followed a main road north out of the city.
The noise of the traffic and the fumes weren’t making it enjoyable. I had enough of it by the time the route left this busy stretch.
At the 5km point, I followed a small but busy road on a constant gradient for the next 3km. I had to pass under the railway, using the pedestrian lights to stop the traffic, so I could go through the tunnel.
It was a constant slog to the top. But once I got there, I was rewarded with a soft gravel track through woodland. The cushioned ground heaven for my feet. I slowed my pace right down to savour the path. I had just spent a day and a third on hard surfaces.
From that point on it was mostly this type of path. It wound through the forests, interspersed with farming hamlets.
For my last hour of walking the sun finally appeared, making it feel like a lazy autumn day. By 12pm I arrived in Cea. I stopped for a drink at the local bar to wait for the albergue to open.
When I checked in, three Spanish pilgrims had already arrived. They are the ones I had been following since Lubián and presume they took a rest day in Ourense.
Chores done I went for some food then returned for a siesta to find the more pilgrims in the albergue. All looking fresh – tourigrinos. This prompted me to check ahead to see if there is space at the next stage. Full.
Which means my easy 14km day tomorrow has just become a 38km.
Stu's Camino 