It was a tough day and had the first rain on this Camino. There was a headwind for most the day under brooding skies to add to the difficulty.
I was the first to leave the albergue not waiting for the cafe to open at 8.30am. I knew I had a long trek ahead. I said goodbye to my fellow peregrinos, potentially the last time I’d see them.
The skies were purple and windy, I could feel a change in the weather approaching. The mountains on the horizon had rain clouds moving across the peaks – the direction I was going.
The route passed through grasslands that ran along side the highway. As I entered Mombuey a rainbow arched over the town to greet me – I got a contender for the best picture of this Camino.
I called into Spar for some fruit and juice to munch on throughout the day and stopped at a bar for a Kas Limón. Then it was back on the trail.
I followed the road for a short while before walking along a long straight wide gravel forest road into Cernadilla. The dark rain clouds were getting closer and I could feel the moisture on the air.
It was road walking for next few kilometres until San Salvador de Palazuelo, marking my half way point for the day. I sat outside the church to have my packed lunch and relax my legs.
An up hill climb, the biggest for the day followed, leading into forest paths all the way to Asturianos. As I entered the rain finally arrived. It felt like the Camino was telling me to stay at the albergue here and await the arrival of my friends. But I need to get into Santiago on the 20th – I can’t afford to take short stages.
I put on my waterproof coat and backpack cover and continued on. Minutes later the rain stopped and it remained cloudy. The route stuck to forest paths and I was still the only one on the Camino – I kept startling deers on the path.
I crossed the 30km point, breaking the back of this day. I trudged on; my feet feeling a little tired, my legs had fallen out with me. I just breathed in the solitude and stillness of my surroundings to keep my mind of them.
I emerged from the woods at Otero de Sanabria. A quiet little hamlet. It would be a great location for an albergue, as Puebla de Sanabria doesn’t have any. It would be a popular one with it being just shy of the stage end.
I took 5 mins to give my legs a rest and continued on for the last 8km – it was all road walking from that point. The sun at least had come out to cheer me along.
The kilometres passed by, and soon Sanabria was in sight. A huge castle and church dominate the hill overlooking the town. There were signs boasting the towns biodiversity. Otters live in the river and Iberian wolves reside in the surrounding woodlands.
I crossed the bridge entering the old town and found my hotel for the night. 42km covered today, so perhaps a well deserved luxury of my own hotel room.
Despite the long distance it was a rewarding day. I had the whole stage to myself. I felt immersed in the solitude of nature and good to get a 40k plus day done.
Stu's Camino 