Day One
For a change this year, we decided to spend a week in Hawkshead rather than Keswick – also we’ve gone Monday to Monday this time.
The M6 was flowing and after a leisurely drive up we got to Windermere, at 1300h we stocked up at the supermarket before moving on to Hawkshead.
Just after 1500h we arrived at the lodge. The sun was out and little clouds dotted the sky. With rain forecast for the week, we made the most of the sunshine, and set off to climb Latterbarrow before dinner.
An easy walk along quiet country lanes to the footpath up the small hill, that wasn’t demanding – a nice warm up for the week. At the top we reached the cairn marking the summit and paused for selfies. Although not a Wainwright it still gave views of Ambleside and lake Windermere.
We returned to Hawkshead to have a quick post walk pint at the Queens Head, before returning to the lodge for tacos and a dip in the hot tub.
Day Two
It had rained heavily throughout the night leaving the roads and fields flooded. According to the forecast, it is meant to be the best of the week.
To bag a Wainwright, Pete, Joe and I set off for Black Crag – the nearest to Hawkshead. Just after 1000h we ventured out under threatening skies.
We started on quiet single lanes, slowly ascending towards Iron Keld Plantation – a small forested area below Black Fell. We were subjected to small light showers, but nothing worth donning the waterproofs for.
We dodged the puddles and at one point a herd of cows being moved to a farmers field. As we began our ascent of Black Crag the wind picked up.
Emerging from the tree line, up the fell we reached the summit cairn. Holding on to our hats, we got the summit selfie then began our descent to the Drunken Duck Inn.
Following forest paths, the wind dropped allowing me to practice with my new drone – something I want to take on my Caminos.
The path reached a small road to the pub, where we stopped for lunch and a pint – I had the lentil and carrot soup.
It was an hours walk back to the lodge along gravel forest paths and quiet lanes. That’s another Wainwright ticked off, and I was ticked as well.
Behind my left knee, the little blighter had attached itself. I had opted for shorts, and at some point I had brushed across a plant where this little vampire awaited its chance.
It was funny, as I was walking, I recalled conversations I had on the Norte last year. Many pilgrims commented on me wearing shorts all the time, and if I was worried about ticks with the risk of Lyme disease – I wasn’t.
With a pull of a pair of tweezers, I was free of the little blood sucker. Pete and Joe were quite smug having worn trousers.
We got showered and changed, ready to head into Ambleside for food and the cinema. We watched the ‘Salt Path’ featuring the 600mile coastal walk around Cornwall.
Back at the lodge we were preparing for a dip in the hot tub, when shouts of “Tick” from both Joe and Pete reverberated through the lodge. They both had them munching on their legs! – so much for trousers!
My tweezer skills were back in action.
Day Three
Heavy rain and hail showers greeted us between sunny spells in the morning, making it risky of miserable walking on some high peaks. We opted for plan B, a day in Windermere.
A bus ride took us to the train station where we ascended Orrest Head. This small hill overlooking the lake. Here is where it all began for Alfred – the birth of the Wainwrights.
He had taken a day trip as child with his parents and climbed to the view point on top. In awe of the landscape, it inspired him to walk every peak in the Lake District.
From there we had lunch in the town before catching the bus to Ambleside. After a mooch around the outdoor shops – I got myself a new waterproof coat for the Camino. We had our traditional crazy golf game.
On a course we’ve never played on, it could be anyone’s game – it was my mums.
Back to the lodge for a quick cuppa, then it was back out to the Queen’s Head where we had booked a table for dinner.
Then it was a ghost tour of Hawkshead. We met outside the ‘Kittchen’, a cat themed bar that rescues cats. The guide dressed in Victorian garb complete with a top hat, took us around the village.
Telling stories of ghostly dogs, boggles, witchcraft and serial killers. He was very entertaining, inviting audience participation – I played the serial killer, Thomas Lancaster. His preferred method of dispatch being poisoned figs. He murdered at least 13 people!
We returned to the lodge, ending the evening with a dip in the hot top while the rain poured down – it even hailed for a bit!
Day Four
The rain continued into the morning. We hopped on to the bus bound to Coniston, winding around the narrow country lanes.
When we arrived the sun was trying to break through but the clouds held fast. We went down to the lake and grabbed breakfast at the cafe on the shore.
The rain poured to the delight of the ducks waddling about the stony beach. With full bellies, the downpour stopped and as we Made our way back to the village centre, the sun finally made a showing!
We had a look at Donald Campbell’s grave, the pilot of the Bluebird speed boat that crashed in 1967, trying to get the water speed record. His body wasn’t recovered until 2001.
A quick pint at the Crown, then we went to the Ruskin Museum to see the restored Bluebird wreckage. While there we met his daughter Gina. There are other displays about the life of John Ruskin; a scholar and teacher.
Even one about local war hero James Hewitson who fought in the trenches in WW1. He had been injured four times and went back to the front lines after each recovery – he was awarded the Victoria Cross.
Bus ride back to Hawkshead followed where we had a few drinks in the village, before returning to the lodge for a quiet evening in, playing board games.
Day Five
It hammered down all night but the morning brought sunshine. We took a walk to Wray Castle across the fields.
The route wasn’t strenuous, a nice stroll over rolling hills. Past flocks of sheep and lambs. I even got to practice more with my drone.
After 5km we got to the castle. It’s not a real one, it was built to mimic one. Now owned by the national trust – unfortunately it’s under renovation inside, so we couldn’t have a look round. We stopped for lunch at the cafe then returned back to Hawkshead.
Covering 11km today, we deserved a post walk beer at the Red Lion Inn. It was back to the lodge for a dip in the hot tub before, chippy Friday.
The old pub, now chip shop ‘The Sun’ was our eatery for the night. It was a chilled evening back at the lodge.
Day Six
As per form, it rained throughout the night and was still pouring when we got up. We headed to Ambleside for a very wet Parkrun – three laps around Rothay Park.
It was packed and there were choke points in the path, forcing you into single file to avoid a head on collision with the faster runners.
With plenty of muddy puddles to splash through, I enjoyed myself – despite getting one of my slower times.
Cold and damp, we opted to return to the lodge to shower and change, rather than get a post run breakfast.
Once dried off we caught the bus back into Ambleside for lunch then walked up to Stockghyll Force – a series of waterfalls that flow into the village.
We grabbed a beer at the ‘Force’ cafe at the top, boasting views down the lake and Black Fell just below the clouds – Coniston Old Man was fully enveloped.
We returned to Hawkshead relaxing for a couple of hours before heading to the Red Lion, for dinner and the pub quiz. We didn’t do too bad, coming 4th.
Day Seven
There was only light rain this time and it was relatively dry compared to the rest of this adventure. Pete, Elina and I jumped in the car to Grisedale Forest leaving my mum and Joe to go to Beatrix Potter‘s house at hill top.
We took the walk up to Carron Crag, the highest point in the forest. From the visitor centre the route follows a wide gravel path upwards. Cyclists whizzed past until the footpath bifurcates up a steep rocky section.
It wound up eventually joining another wide gravel path. We had to pause for a furry caterpillar crossing the road, then made the last stint to the summit.
We got our selfies at the trig point, then descended, passing wooden sculptures as we made our way back to the visitor centre in time for lunch.
After food we took a quick walk to see the ‘Go Ape’ obstacle course, watching people zip line through the trees. We returned to the lodge for a soak in the hot tub before dinner.
For the last night in Hawkshead, we had a drink in the Queens Head, then played a board game back at the lodge. Monday is a day of travelling, so we didn’t want a heavy night.
The week passed too quickly, time flies when you’re having fun.
Stu's Camino 