Camino del Norte Day 20 – Llanes to Ribadesella

Today has all been about angry stormy seas. I’ve had so much fun watching the water show from the crashing waves against the shores and rocky outcrops – I hardly noticed the drizzle!

I opted for breakfast at the albergue and was out the gates at 0740h. The route follows the main road before going over a level crossing and into the countryside. It was still dark at this point, and head torches were required.

The way follows the top of some cliffs with views of the sea crashing against rock formations off the coast. Even though it was a way off, the sound could still be heard.

Eventually you arrive at a beach at Celorio. The sky angry and the huge waves pounded the jagged rock faces with a low reverberating thud. They crashed over rocks sending spray into the air – it all looked very moody, but an absolute joy to watch.

You move inland to the bottom of a small estuary with a church overlooking the waters and the village of Niembru rising up behind. a small eucalyptus wooded section followed before dipping down past the ruins of the San Antolin de Bedón monastery – it would make a good albergue.

After here I was back at the coast and again treated to another spectacular water show. I spent far too long taking pictures and videos. Again the route goes inland past a couple of villages and into Nueva. I finally got to a bar that was open – I keep forgetting Mondays a lot of places are closed.

After my daily dose of tortilla, the drizzle had stopped and the Sun appeared. It remained dry for the rest of my walk. Over the next 10km there would be no villages until Ribadesella. It was easy enough, nice gravel paths with the occasional road.

I had whole route to myself; only birdsong, the crunching of my footsteps and the occasional cowbell were the only sounds I heard.

Tonight’s digs, is a youth hostel right on the beach, again I hadn’t booked ahead, but there is plenty of room. The number of pilgrims on the trail has dropped – accommodation isn’t a problem anymore, I’ve haven’t booked ahead since Boo de Piélagos.