Camino del Norte Day 11 – Portugalete to Castro Urdiales

After breakfast we headed on out, up a hill as always – Neill and John took full advantage of the escalators (a common feature in the hilly towns)

The route follows some impressive infrastructure. A footpath and cycle lane takes you over the roads, the motorways and an impressive spaghetti junction.

About an hour and a half into the walk, the dry weather changed to a light shower that progressively got worse – Poncho time.

Just after Abanto-Zierbena there are conflicting signs for the route. The official carved wooden one pointing to the right and numerous yellow arrows pointing to the left. My gut was trusting in the arrows and after consulting Gronze Maps, it was justified.

Here the route dips under the motorway following a red brick path all the way to the coast. Many passing locals wished me “¡Buen Camino!” As we arrived into La Arena, the Sun was out to present a glorious sandy beach.

We stopped for a tortilla y potata and stripped off the ponchos. The way then follows the beach along a boardwalk, up a forested hill. At the top the rain returned; I had a feeling it would be a passing shower. I huddled under a tree waiting it out, not wanting to pull out my poncho again.

My gut was right again, 10 minutes later the sun returned. From there the Camino follows the coast, passing through a tunnel cut into a small headland and then on to Onton.

At the village I had a choice of the official route or the coastal route. My gut was saying the official way, however, having opted for the official route a few days back and missing some stunning views, I overridden my gut on this occasion.

I almost instantly regretted. It was all by road following the N-634, that snaked its way into Mioño; at some points very dangerous, with blind bends and no verges to step out of the way – I should have listened to my gut.

Glad to reach the village; outside a bar I spotted Ronni. I stopped for a drink with him. I was then joined by Jenny from Colombia and eventually John and Neill.

After a couple of beers enjoying the Sun I continued on to Castro Urdiales. A beautiful coastal town with a church and castle/lighthouse on a small headland, prominently watching over the sea.

The Albergue is 1.5km from the centre up a gradual hill. As I approached I was delighted to see Lina and Marcus – I had caught up with them.

Only problem was, the albergue was full. A quick search on Gronze, I found a Pension back in town and reserved a triple room so John, Neill and I could split the cost.

In the evening we met up with Lina, Marcus, Jürgen and Vanessa (a pilgrim I shared a dorm with in San Sebastián), for a meal and drinks.

Published by Stu

I’m a casual blogger about my adventures at home and abroad.

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