0600h on the dot classical music blared through the albergue, lights flickered on, signalling wake up time.
Dawn wasn’t until 0750h so I milled around the kitchen area chatting to my fellow peregrinos before setting off around 0730h.
As usual with leaving cities, it’s difficult to find the way; despite taking an unintentional variant we got back on track.
It was a steep climb up the mountain, the clouds threatened rain but it remained dry. Eventually the path splits into two at small church overlooking Irún. John and Eugene had earlier said they’d be taking the low road
Here I met Lyn from the Netherlands and we tackled the higher and more difficult path. The ascent was devilish, but it was worth it for the views. Once on top the route follows the ridge of the mountain, past old dilapidated watch towers.
A light drizzle of rain caught us at the start of the descent, but it didn’t last long enough to pull out the ponchos. Feeling peckish we stopped for a snack where a pilgrim from breakfast joined us.
Di from England. The three of us began the long descent to Pasaia, a small natural harbour that had cute Basque style building lining the water edges. The Sun had chased away the rain at this point. It had gone 1300h and our stomachs were rumbling.
I had my first tortilla y patata of the Camino and a refreshing beer. From the terrace we had views of the harbour and the little green ferry shuttling foot passengers from one side to the other, one we would have to catch to continue the journey.
For a €1.85 we made the crossing where Lyn’s walking day ended. Di and I continued on, heading towards the coast then up a very steep flight of steps to reach the top of a hill that guards the harbour – almost like a mini fjord.
From there it was a woodland trail keeping the heat from the Sun off us as we reached San Sebastián. Di’s accommodation was at the first of the three beaches that make up the city; mine was at the third, another 3km or so.
San Sebastián is an affluent city and currently hosting an international film festival – that the Camino grapevine informs me Johnny Depp is attending.
I passed red carpets and people dolled up in their best designer threads. I seemed to have gained the power of Moses, as they all parted ways like the Red Sea – either that or it’s my smelly pilgrim look.
Eventually I reached the hostel that had a washing machine and dryer, I took full advantage of them. It had been a really enjoyable day and machine washed clothes was the icing on the cake – although, I now may have lost my Moses powers.
Stu's Camino 