At 0800h I was back on the Camino which followed the coastline. Surfers were catching the morning waves with onlookers from the cliffs above. The route was quiet except for the runners and cyclists doing their morning exercises.
The views out to sea in the early morning light was magical. It made up for the undulating terrain synonymous of the Northern Way. About 3km in I grabbed a banana and an orange juice from a small market overlooking a beach.
Breakfast sorted it wasn’t long before the route descended into St. Jean de Luz. A seaside town with a lovely vibe. The locals strolled along the promenade with their dogs, while paddle boarders went around the bay.
From here the route splits for a coastal path and an interior way, following advice from the Jean-Luc, the albergue owner last night, the coastal route is closed.
The way passes through narrow streets between the typical Basque style houses into rural surrounds.
Just after midday I reached Urrugne. This village would be the last chance for food until Hendaye and there are two hills to climb before then.
Choices were limited to one restaurant and it was a bit posh for pilgrims. Netherless they were still accepting. Only wanting a light lunch I went for an avocado and salmon salad. But that seemed a bit boring for the establishment – i was wrong, it had caviar and all sorts of nonsense in the dressing. Very nice though and sated my hunger.
The temperature had risen to an uncomfortable level now and the two hills were slow going. I kept leaping frogging two pilgrims from Spain whom shared the albergue last night, on the way into Hendaye.
The last French town on the route is only separated from Irún by a river. The bridge named ‘Puente de Santiago’, the start point in Irún, marked the crossing into Spain.
Halfway a yellow arrow is painted on a lamppost. The route is finally clear, I now felt at home. About 1.5km more, passing through the centre of the city I reached the only albergue, sharing a 10 bunk dorm, with 4 from Guéthary.
Once chores were done I went to a local bar for the pilgrims meal with two fellow peregrinos John and Eugene. It was a nice warm evening, however the weather is meant to change tomorrow – might need my poncho.
Stu's Camino 