Camino de Fisterra Day 4 – Olveiroa to Corcubion

It was a long and tough one today due to no stops between Hospital and Cee. We truly were in the wilderness for most of the journey.

We weren’t the first out of the albergue for a change, two peregrinos were out before 0600h! We set off around 0640h, ascending in the dark on the last of the big hills for this Camino.

After 4km we arrived at Logoso for breakfast, stood outside waiting for a taxi were our friends from Acrington, we shared a pilgrims meal with, at Santa Marina.

They are running out of time, so they are skipping ahead to Cee and walking to Fisterra from there. We wished them a buen camino.

Dawn had arrived once breakfast was eaten, however there were no red skies, just grey clouds covering the heavens. It was a steady ascent up to Hospital taking the right hand path leading to Fisterra.

The route passes through woodlands that cover the hills that lead to the coast. After a short descent, we came to Cruceiro Marco do Couto. The traditional point where pilgrims would decide whether to take the left path to Muxia or the Right to Fisterra.

It was in these woods that a Bishop in the 15th century while on pilgrimage, witnessed werewolves and strange creatures. He called them Vákner. A local sculptor has made a huge metal statue of this beast.

The path undulated until the little chapel of Santa Ermida das Neves. Over the next 3 km it steadily rises before plateauing out before the speedy descent into Cee.

It was tough going with no amenities on this stretch. A chapel for San Pedro Martir, marks the last of the big hills. It was level from there until just before Cee. On the way into the town, we met our New Zealand friend from Santa Marina. She has picked up a foot injury and her pace had dropped to a crawl, but she was still in good spirits.

We stopped at the first bar for a cold drink then moved on to find somewhere to eat, however it appears most places are closed on Mondays. With tired legs and empty bellies we made our way to our accommodation for the night, to check in.

Luckily the chap at the desk pointed out a bar that will be open. When we turned up the kitchen had just closed, however the waiter persuaded them to stay open for tapas. Camino Magic!

Published by Stu

I’m a casual blogger about my adventures at home and abroad.

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