It’s that time of year again, where I make my annual pilgrimage to the Keswick Beer Festival. The weather has been very generous this week, which is just as well, as I’d forgotten to pack my waterproof coat!
We arrived late Friday afternoon after battling the M6 car park; the traffic was horrendous. As soon as the car was unloaded, we made a bee line to the rugby club for the festivities.
Sunday was a rest and alcohol free day to recuperate from the over indulgence of the Friday and Saturday. Milling around the cabin we had rented for the week.
When I completed the Two Saints Way in April, while looking around Chester cathedral gift shop, there were pilgrim passports for collecting stamps from the cathedrals throughout the UK. Rekindling my joy for acquiring sellos on the Camino, I had to get one.
So Monday we caught the bus into Carlisle to have an explore and get a stamp from the cathedral. What a little gem it was, the ceiling is very unusual. It is covered in gold stars on blue backgrounds, inspired by Islamic and Moorish architecture.
Designed by the 19th century architect Owen Jones, who had a fascination in this style and spent time abroad studying it. We spent the remainder of the day exploring the city before catching the bus back to Keswick.
Tuesday I was itching to climb some Wainwrights, so I hopped on the bus to Honister slate mine, which is situated at the top of Honister Pass.
The bus was packed and with the current hot weather it overheated! Forcing the driver to stop to allow it to cool down; luckily it was within sight of the slate mine. I jumped off deciding to begin my walk from there.
My target for the day was Great Gable. The 7th highest of the Wainwrights. I picked my route so I could tick of three smaller ones on the way up.
Straight from the mine it was a devilish incline following a fence line, that proved useful to hold on to and propel myself upwards. After 40min or so, the incline softened as I reached ‘Grey Knotts’. A gentle gradient led me to the next Wainwright, ‘Brandreth’.
As I summited my second peak of the day, I got my first glimpse of Great Gable. It loomed above its neighbours and looked steep! The path dips down then up Green Gable before fiercely ascending to summit.
Soon I was scrambling up a boulder field, with plenty of loose rocks that would tumble down at any poor foot placement. I persevered and reached the summit. One side ‘Scafell Pike’ dominated the skyline in the distance and to the other ‘Skiddaw’.
I wanted to descend via a different route so I could walk around the north face to get a close up of Gable Crag. However this would prove to be a huge error. On the map, I took the northwest path.
It started off fine, with plenty of rocks and boulders to hold on to. The path that skirted the mountain below came within sight, but all the boulders and rocks had disappeared, leaving a very steep descent with rust coloured loose shale under foot.
I tested it by holding on to the last remaining boulder as my anchor, tentatively placing my foot down. It just slipped sending a stream of dust and stones cascading downhill; far too dangerous to continue this route. I was forced to turn back towards the summit.
After summiting Great Gable for the second time, I descended the way I originally came, arriving back at the slate mine in time to catch the bus back to Keswick.
Wednesday a walk around Derwent Water was on the cards, making the most of rare sunny weather. The start and end point being the Greta bridge, firstly heading towards Crow Park to follow the shoreline clockwise.
The last time I did this route, it was raining cats and dogs. A complete different experience to today’s sunshine. I have been very lucky with the weather this year.
After a quick pint at Mary’s Mount, we continued on taking a slight detour into Grange for ice cream at a little café, before returning to the route following the western shore.
After helping a local recover three escaped sheep, returning them to their field, the route followed the shady paths along the lake.
Once we reached Portinscale we called into the Derwentwater Hotel for a cheeky pint, enjoying the late afternoon sun in the beer garden. From there it was a short walk back into Keswick.
Thursday, our last day, we took a bus ride to Rosthwaite and Buttermere. Two tiny but picturesque villages. Rosthwaite is nestled in the Barrowdale valley, hardly touched by time.
A hidden slice of heaven, with open fields of wildflowers and grazing cattle, surrounded by the towering Wainwrights.
Buttermere village sits between Buttermere and Crummock Water. It seems to have more pubs and cafés than homes! A village has been on this spot since the Vikings dwelled here.
After some lunch and drinks, we hopped back on the bus returning to Keswick, calling in at ‘The Round’ for dinner completing this year’s Keswick adventure.
Now I need to start preparing for my next adventure in three months time; here is a little clue for what it is.
Stu's Camino 