This morning I felt dizzy, lightheaded and the nagging headache had returned. I stood outside on the patio in the bright morning sunshine to get some fresh air. I popped a couple of the super ibuprofen and after breakfast I was feeling a lot better.
There wasn’t a cloud and the titans were in their full glory. I had never seen mountains like these before in my life; it really is a magical place. We followed the same route out of Namche as our climatization day along a path that clung to the mountain sides. We passed huge shrines perched on the cliff edges, with prayer flags flapping in the alpine breeze.
At one point the path narrowed to almost single file through a small gulley. I heard a shout from the guides at the rear of the group that a Yak train was approaching. One warning we were given on day one, is if there is a Yak train, you get out of its way, specifically move to the mountain side of the path. These things do not stop and they will knock you over the edge!
Unfortunately me and Pete were at a pinch point on the path with huge boulders either side of us. Pete managed to take some quick steps forward and jump up a small bank to get out the way, however there was no room for me. I tried to scramble up the side of a boulder but couldn’t get my footing; I could feel the ground vibrating from the approaching Yaks.
At the very last moment Neil and Leon grabbed my backpack and both lifted me into the air, as I watched the train speed past under my dangling feet in a blur, kicking up dust into the air. A very close call; leaving this world via a Yak train would have been too embarrassing!
Around midday we arrived at Mong (4000m) where I was famished and my head was pounding. I wolfed down some egg noodles and fell asleep, only to be woken by shouts of “Djam Djam”. From Mong, we descended 400m into a Rhododendron forest. I really enjoyed this part of the route.
It felt so secluded and serene, completely cut off from civilisation; it is rumoured to be Yeti country! The trees offered shade from the sun making it ideal for walking. We passed waterfalls and watched eagles riding the thermals overhead. I soon lost myself in my own thoughts and my headache began to subside.
We arrived at our destination for the night, Dohle (4110m), at 1600hrs after a grueling 2 hour uphill climb from the Rhododendron forest. As the sun dipped behind a mountain the clouds enveloped us and the temperature dropped considerably. The teahouse was the most basic we had experienced so far on the trek. There were no lights at all, so we had to eat and socialize by headtorch.
After a meal of vegetable curry and plenty of water, my headache had almost completely dissipated. We spent the evening in the common room feeling exhausted, chatting until it was time for bed.
Stu's Camino 